I have a 16.12kW system going in at $2.52 per watt before incentives. System includes 52 LG NeON2 LG310N1C-G4 with Enphase S280-60-LL-2-US microinverters. Install is on flat roof and cement tile. Installation is by the top rated company in Phoenix area on solarreviews.
Price paid per watt
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Originally posted by zedyou pay 60k
CS6P-260P/SE3000 - http://tiny.cc/ed5ozxComment
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Originally posted by zed
I made currency allowances,comparing AUD to AUD conversion, but who cares what you think?
CS6P-260P/SE3000 - http://tiny.cc/ed5ozxComment
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Originally posted by zed
Manners or literacy aren't yours are they?
I made currency allowances,comparing AUD to AUD conversion, but who cares what you think?SunnyBoy 3000 US, 18 BP Solar 175B panels.Comment
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Starting to make dangerous calculations, like moving to another state to save money.Comment
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Damn, the cost of installing in california is starting to become painfully apparent to me. Best I've gotten for LG so far is $3.35/watt, and according to the California Solar Initiative database, that's a pretty competitive price.
Starting to make dangerous calculations, like moving to another state to save money.SunnyBoy 3000 US, 18 BP Solar 175B panels.Comment
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I still don't get it either. Isn't 38kw paying ~41k USD and not "you pay 60k". Much different than the 30k --> 31k error.Comment
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Hi All,
Just got 7 bids for a 10.4kW DC solar system here in San Diego and wanted to know your thoughts. My last 12 month's usage was 12,281 kWh. My new EV is averaging 4.2 miles/kWh and after a month of driving, I'm figuring 2,500 kWh additional per year for my driving pattern, so about 15,000 kWh annual total. We have 2 west facing roof planes, and 2 east facing. Our south plane is very small and directly in front of the house so we may bypass it for aesthetics. The quotes I got were for between 30 and 33 LG 315 panels, and either Enphase S280 or SE10000 or SE 11400 inverters. I skipped SunPower panels due to the high cost. Our best bid was at $3.24 per watt and uses IronRidge mounts. I have heard conflicting advice on "double flashing" Quick mounts and whether they are better to protect against leaks or not. This vendor has a 10 year labor and roof warranty and will extend the SE inverter warranty to 25 years.
So my questions are, should we go with 30 or 33 panels for the usage? I'm leaning to either exactly 100% or slightly less than 100% offset due to all the uncertainty of SDGE rate changes and increasing fixed fees, and changes in NEM 2.0. Is $3.24 a good price, are the IrondRidge mounts good? I am leaning towards the SE inverter to keep the door open for a Tesla PowerWall, but I hear Enphase micro inverters are good too. Do you think we will get into NEM 1.0 for SDGE before the cap? Thanks in advance for any advice.Comment
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Price seem good but you have to ask questions - will conduit be inside attic or along roof? Will inverters be inside or outside? Will conduit go around gutters or through soffit? There are lots of ways an installer can price low that may harm the value of your home by more than the price difference.
I would go for more panels - a Tesla driven 10,000 miles a year is 3500 kWh after you factor in charging losses. If you have more power, I am sure you can find a way to use it.Comment
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Sharp 250 W. cost me 1.07 a watt 3 years ago. Of course I think Sharp picked up and moved to Japan .Comment
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Price seem good but you have to ask questions - will conduit be inside attic or along roof? Will inverters be inside or outside? Will conduit go around gutters or through soffit? There are lots of ways an installer can price low that may harm the value of your home by more than the price difference.
Question #2: Should conduit be inside the attic? (I was just presuming it would be safer to have it along the roof because of the high voltage? And running it down through the roof and into the attic might give another possible place that roof is compromised?)
PLEASE NOTE, I've reposted my questions on the part of the forum that specifically addresses installation (as opposed to here in he price per watt)Last edited by entgegnen; 06-20-2016, 09:16 PM. Reason: Just trying to move my questions to a more appropriate section of the forumComment
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I haven't weeded my way through this whole thread so I may be a bit off here but I just did a diy 13kW 51 panel system on my shop building. The inverters are inside the shop. The cleanest way I could see to do it was to get a Soladeck (roof penetration point) and run 1" EMT from it through the attic and down into the shop/garage space. Going over and around a soffit would be ugly, cause many more pipe bends and make the wire harder to pull. It is in no way unsafe to route the high voltage through the attic if the metal conduit is properly grounded.Comment
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back on topic... 12.96kw Canadian solar cs6k-270m, ground mount, 360' from house, SMA 6.0 x 2, in ohio, with extended warranties, $3.10/watt installed prior to any incentives.
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Hello, I'm from a UK company that manufactures solar panels and it is interested to see the cost that installers are paying per watt for their panels. We are currently offering a discount on all commercial silver framed panels. Our panels are high quality and TUV regulated and not cheap Chinese imports. We use the highest quality cells and materials and we can offer the following prices on our 260 watt Silver framed panel:
1-4 pallets : £0.48/watt or £124.80/panel
5-10 pallets : £0.46/watt or £119.60/panel
10-15 pallets : £0.45/watt or £117.00/panel
Multiples of 15 pallets : £0.44/watt or £114.40/panel.
If you would like to find out more or just fancy a chat we are available to help
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PV wiring is required to be in metallic conduit per the NEC. Metallic conduit should exist everywhere PV wires do, when on/in a house, period. Along the roof or inside the attic doesn't dictate safety. Where it can be cut by firefighters or wires fail inside the conduit without being noticed is my fears.
On the roof it can be in PVC conduit OR even no conduit. (Usually it is no conduit when underneath the modules.)
Many people prefer metal conduit to PVC - but it is not required by NEC when outside the structure (ie. above the roof)
My *guess* at the reasoning is that if outside the structure it's obvious that it's a conduit with PV wires - and not going to be cut by firemen. As opposed to inside where it could look like "just another housewire - no reason not to take the ax to it to make a vent hole since the meter is pulled"
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