No. It solves the problem of "too much power" by disconnecting the grid tie inverter via a separate relay once the batteries are close to fully charged. Then the bidirectional inverter supports the entire load. Which is another reason it has to be big; larger than both your solar power system and your loads.
How to tie a solar generator to the inverter
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So, I am less inclined to listen to someone who has not grasped this fundamental principle....when I look for correct knowledge in the more advanced principles of solar use. No offense, I hope. NWDiver's and inetdog's explanations seem logical and knowledgeable...Thank you
OutBack FP1 w/ CS6P-250P http://bit.ly/1Sg5VNHComment
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If you are unable to explain a concept in an understandable manner, you are not communicating...you are wasting your time and mine...go get laid and chill out. Thank you to jflorey2 for clear concise communication. Sorry if my quest for understanding is annoying everyone....but I will persistSo I am assuming that the Tesla powerwall accomplishes all of the criteria laid out in previous posts...is there a cheaper system that does that?
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If you are unable to explain a concept in an understandable manner, you are not communicating...you are wasting your time and mine...go get laid and chill out. Thank you to jflorey2 for clear concise communication. Sorry if my quest for understanding is annoying everyone....but I will persistSo I am assuming that the Tesla powerwall accomplishes all of the criteria laid out in previous posts...is there a cheaper system that does that?
numerouse people have attemoted in many different ways to explain things... it is not your quest for information but rather your stubborn assumption that everyone giving you facts you don't agree with, is less knowledgeable than you.
There have been several examples given, to include products from midnight solar, outback, snyder, magnum, and yes tesla powerwall has a built in bimodal inverter.
another solution is to replace the grid tie inverter with a DC coupled solution which would include a bimodal inverter and charge controller.
However feel free to connect your "solar generator", be sure to record it as a good visual example might help the next poster hoping to "fool" their grid tie inverter.OutBack FP1 w/ CS6P-250P http://bit.ly/1Sg5VNHComment
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My system was on the roof, absorbing the sunlight and, by default, producing electricity, even though the electricity had no place to go (inverter was OFF waiting for power company to install their meter)..once the meter was installed the inverter was turned ON and the power was now allowed to flow to my panel and to the grid. The panels do not have an on/off switch...they produce when struck by sunlight, no matter what. So, I am less inclined to listen to someone who has not grasped this fundamental principle....when I look for correct knowledge in the more advanced principles of solar use. No offense, I hope. NWDiver's and inetdog's explanations seem logical and knowledgeable...Thank you My investigation would seem to indicate that the battery system ADDITIONAL inverter, added to the grid-tied system, solves the problem of excess power to the batteries by shutting off (controller) the power to the batteries once they are fully charged...is this correct?
An AC coupled system 'solves' the problem of not having a place to put surplus electricity when the batteries are full by increasing frequency slightly which causes to grid-tie inverter to trip => it stops producing electricity. But as was mentioned you need a 'Bimodal' also called a hybrid inverter specifically designed to be AC coupled...Comment
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It is very frustrating to go on to a forum like this and have people ignore what you have said...and then ad stuff to their posts which are irrelevant, since you already explained the situation...an example is me saying that everything I am trying to do would be done with the breaker switches from the grid in the OFF position....yet how many of you had to lecture on electrocuting lineman....it pisses me off. Instead of exploring possibilities to make something work, you act like repeating the same thing will somehow be useful...a simple "Can't be done" would tell me all i need to know, and I could move on to another forum with more "out-of-the-box" thinkers. Since powerwalls are hooked up to grid-tied systems, I know it CAN be done...maybe not with my equipment or my knowledge base, but you folks who ARE knowledgeable need to learn how to communicate, and read the whole question before providing an answer....or go fix your shortsComment
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It is very frustrating to go on to a forum like this and have people ignore what you have said...and then ad stuff to their posts which are irrelevant, since you already explained the situation...an example is me saying that everything I am trying to do would be done with the breaker switches from the grid in the OFF position....yet how many of you had to lecture on electrocuting lineman....it pisses me off. Instead of exploring possibilities to make something work, you act like repeating the same thing will somehow be useful...a simple "Can't be done" would tell me all i need to know, and I could move on to another forum with more "out-of-the-box" thinkers. Since powerwalls are hooked up to grid-tied systems, I know it CAN be done...maybe not with my equipment or my knowledge base, but you folks who ARE knowledgeable need to learn how to communicate, and read the whole question before providing an answer....or go fix your shorts
there is no safe way to get a grid tie pv system without batteries to function without the grid except for an expensive AC coupled configuration which is complex and costly to get set up right.
BTW, looks like only one person even mentioned electrocuting linemenOutBack FP1 w/ CS6P-250P http://bit.ly/1Sg5VNHComment
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