Is the pump spinning? If you don't know, you can unscrew the end of the pump and see if it is by putting screwdriver in just to touch. If it is spinning, you don't have enough static pressure to get it up to the roof and/or you have an air bubble up there. Either way you need more glycol or turn it off because it will burn out.
Looking to replace solar water heater
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I figured out that my glycol side grundfos up15-18su is not pumping anymore. I checked for voltage to it and that is good. I don't see anyway to unfreeze it if it is stuck. If I replace it, can I flush and change the glycol myself? Would you recommend just paying someone? I was thinking about reading up on it and use a waterbed pump from uhaul. It has the hose bib connections and it looks similar to one of my instruction pics.
All this cost is adding up quite fast.Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
|| Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
|| VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A
solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-ListerComment
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I'm pretty certain, that a water bed pump from Uhaul, will disappoint you. Look for the grundfos up15-18su pump on amazon, see what replaces it, and use that. I've also heard that the magnetic coupled impellers sometimes get stuck on a piece of grit, and stop pumping. Just pull the pump, use a pencil to un stick it, and back in business. Buy a spare, and keep the old one to use as a backup if the new one fails in 10 years.Comment
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I found the replacement model# ealier on grunfos' site and picked one up. I also found polypropylene glycol for a good price. 5 gallons premixed at my plumbing supply store was $150, I got some RV/Marine polypropylene antifreeze, good for copper pipes premixed same -50 degree rating for $4 a gallon. I will try to unstick the pump and save the $180 there too. I was going to use the uhaul pump to pressurize the system but a local solar guy will come by and use my glycol for hourly labor.Comment
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I found the replacement model# ealier on grunfos' site and picked one up. I also found polypropylene glycol for a good price. 5 gallons premixed at my plumbing supply store was $150, I got some RV/Marine polypropylene antifreeze, good for copper pipes premixed same -50 degree rating for $4 a gallon. I will try to unstick the pump and save the $180 there too. I was going to use the uhaul pump to pressurize the system but a local solar guy will come by and use my glycol for hourly labor.Comment
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The proplyene glycol is good but the RV stuff sometimes comes in a powder form and I would not use it. In your area, -50 is not needed. 30% concentration is appropriate. We only use 40% (Ontario Canada) and the higher the percentage the harder it is to pump so if you mix down use distilled water and see if the local solar guy can check the concentration.Comment
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The difference is that the RV stuff is formulated for freezing and not for high heat. At high heat expect the additives to precipitate out and mess up the system.Comment
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I have bought propylene glycol here for prices like you are talking about. To the best of my knowledge it is all the same.[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Comment
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My old company also has glycol formulated specifically so that additives will go back into suspension after steaming out. RV stuff is not the same.
Pricing for glycol is different in Europe because the solar market is 100 times bigger, people change their glycol every few years while most people here forget about it. It is the same with lots of products. Market drives price.
So, if I am wrong, tell me the difference between Tyfocor L, GL, GLS? it is not the base product, it is the additives.Comment
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Typical is one thing, but the reason that engine coolant systems are pressurized (up to ~15-20 psi) is to allow for the coolant to get above 100C under heavy loads. The "typical" temperature is at least as high as the thermostat setting on the system. It is true that you never expect the coolant to actually vaporize and re-condense however.SunnyBoy 3000 US, 18 BP Solar 175B panels.Comment
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Typical is one thing, but the reason that engine coolant systems are pressurized (up to ~15-20 psi) is to allow for the coolant to get above 100C under heavy loads. The "typical" temperature is at least as high as the thermostat setting on the system. It is true that you never expect the coolant to actually vaporize and re-condense however.Comment
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True, but the "normal" operating temps are in the 70-80C range. With auto there is a good amount of excess capacity built in. For natural proplyene glycol, you will not have a high degree of degradation below 130C which is why some systems (Thermo-dynamics, Enerworks etc) will use natural with no additives (It also helps to be able to call it food grade as well). They do not have high stagnation temps.
What sort of additives are often found in low-temp plumbing winterizing glycol mix? I would not expect any to be needed except maybe for anti-corrosion, coloring so you know it's there, and maybe some perfume?
On the same lines, what other than high-temp anti-corrosion additives are optional/desirable in a solar thermal glycol mix?
When you start with natural glycol, how important is it to use distilled, purified, or demineralized water to dilute it? I would guess it is far less important than for topping off batteries, but still an issue with high mineral or highly acidic or alkaline water?
Either a discussion or a pointer to some good writeups on the subject would be appreciated.SunnyBoy 3000 US, 18 BP Solar 175B panels.Comment
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