Difference Between Type L & ACR Copper Coil??

[fst2011]

Hey lucman... no need for the "one more time " remark. If you took the time to read my last post and not let it trigger your inner beast...lol. don't get triggered again just friendly banter...you would notice I was "Asking" why YOU seem to think ACR is MORE money. Cause i can get ACR for much much cheaper then Type L.

I understand the od & id are different. Aside from that is there anything else I need to know or concern about? Aside from having them in steel barrel with fire underneath. There will be pool chlorine running thru tubing... would it matter such I use...Type L or ACR?

Lastly someone had mentioned that it may be a hassle finding connections & Etc if I go with Type ACR... is there any truth to this? Is it a real issue or not really?

Thanks so much again!

[LucMan]

The chlorine will turn the copper green real quick, then it will get pinholes and start leaking or plug, either reducing flow or stop flow completely. Acr or L won't make any difference.

I think you will need much more than 1/2 od tubing, 11/8" od or 1" id will give you 15-20 gpm flow rate depending on your total equivalent length.

No problem getting acr fittings at HVAC & refrigeration supply houses as long as you remember to order by O.D size. Fittings will usually have a longer radius than standard water fittings.

Do a search for copper tube handbook pdf. Will inform you on everything copper.

[fst2011]

Thanks again so much for taking out the time. There are few videos online of people making very similar or exactly the same. They've used 1/2 tubing and had really good results. Only difference some people used straight copper 1/2 pipe, some used the tubing.

Have anther question... do I need to worry about this thing blowing up? Meaning, I know never to heat the tubing unless I have pool water running thru it... but when I have this running with pool flowing thru, and getting heated up, would this create pressure to burst?

Most videos... actually about all don't have anything added to the line to protect from that, except this one video. Guy had a fitting that he called pressure release valve. Said it was there in case temp gets too hot.

I don't think it need it...he was only video that installed but I also know i DON'T know enough about heating water/steam/etc etc. Please let me know what you think.

Also I'm going post just the question about if need pressure valve cause I figure most people already read this post when I first made it, and most likely are not going to keep coming back to read. So if any mods see this, please understand I'm not trying double post.

Thanks for your advice.

[Mike90250]

What powers the pump ? If the pump and water intake system is super reliable, (i ) might skip the safety valve, I can't recommend that you skip it. The danger is if the water stops flowing while the fire is going. If the pump stops, or someone does a cannonball and a slug of air gets sucked in, you get a boom in a couple minutes, Not fun.

[fst2011]

The pump is plugged into the wall outlet. And I kinda agree I would rather be safe then sorry. So could you recommend what I should look for, like certain type and maybe specs? Also where on the tubing would be best place to install. I cant thank you enough for taking the time to help explain and make sure no one blows up..


Brian

[Mike90250]

The safety relief valve is usually at a high point in the system, and often, a pipe is in the outlet to deflect the blow-off in a safe direction