Wood-Stove Hot-Water system

[Mike90250]

... Unfortunately with my woodstove it was not possible for me to design it for thermal-syphoning. I must use a circulator-pump. ......

You sir, have built yourself a bomb. You are just one power or pump failure away. Or some mineral deposit clogging. If you have a fire stoked up in your stove, and loose circulation, it goes boom in 2-30 minutes, depending. You just said in the nuke subs, they naturally circulate slowly, or else they would go boom too.

[organic farmer]

You sir, have built yourself a bomb. You are just one power or pump failure away....

No, not really. I have pressure-relief valves in the loops.

[Grahamsurette]

Alright I think I've figured it out.... Normal hot water tank, thermo siphon supply into the top of the tank with the return from my floor Y'ed Into it. Return going back to the stove exiting from the drain at the bottom of the hw heater with the suppy to the floor T'ed off somewhere in this area along with the circ pump. If it was designed correct I think it would work well and the suction from the circ would encourage the flow of natural convection. Thoughts?

[organic farmer]

Alright I think I've figured it out.... Normal hot water tank, thermo siphon supply into the top of the tank with the return from my floor Y'ed Into it. Return going back to the stove exiting from the drain at the bottom of the hw heater with the suppy to the floor T'ed off somewhere in this area along with the circ pump. If it was designed correct I think it would work well and the suction from the circ would encourage the flow of natural convection. Thoughts?

Toss in a few check-valves to ensure the flow is always in the direction that you intend it to be.

When you have multiple loops with Y-connections, there is a possibility of water flowing in the opposite direction, without any check-valves.

[Grahamsurette]

Toss in a few check-valves to ensure the flow is always in the direction that you intend it to be.

When you have multiple loops with Y-connections, there is a possibility of water flowing in the opposite direction, without any check-valves.

I will do that. This is the second winter I've had my garage and I've been itching to see my infloor in action. Thanks for your input. If anyone has anything else to add I'm open for options

[inetdog]

No, not really. I have pressure-relief valves in the loops.

Make sure that the relief valves are in a position where steam and hot water coming out will not cause risk to people or damage to the surroundings.

[Grahamsurette]

Make sure that the relief valves are in a position where steam and hot water coming out will not cause risk to people or damage to the surroundings.

Thanks for that. No one want hot steam in their face

[organic farmer]

Make sure that the relief valves are in a position where steam and hot water coming out will not cause risk to people or damage to the surroundings.

My system has been in operation for a few years. The pressure reliefs lift a few times every year. No problem so far.

[Grahamsurette]

I'm thinking of venting the top of the hw heater that way it would be a little safer I think.

[russ]

My system has been in operation for a few years. The pressure reliefs lift a few times every year. No problem so far.

It only counts if they function perfectly year after year - maybe they will and maybe they won't.

If it is a low pressure system and you can use a vent pipe it would be great.

[gmanInPA]

The original link that mountain shared does not work for me. Is it still available?

[SunEagle]

The original link that mountain shared does not work for me. Is it still available?

That post made by mountain is over 5 years old so the link is probably long gone by now.

[Logan005]

When I was a kid we made and placed a copper coil inside the fire box of our wood stove, it pumped water through the coil and into pex tubing in our concrete floor. Even in the teens weather we could burn for four hours in the evening and sleep warm all night. home was earthen berm, super insulated.

[Mike90250]

A copper coil in a wood stove is a time bomb, copper will work harden in the heat, and will fracture easily. Stainless Steel is the preferred material for a heat loop in a stove or heater.

http://www.woodheat.org/heating-water-with-a-wood-stove.html

[thu292]

i can't open link