My shop wall air heater

[brododge]

I assume this is an old building with peaked roof on rafters and not trusses.

You can insulate the roof by placing insulation between the rafters. This would be easy if the rafters were 2x6. If they are only 2x4 then maybe you can add some sticks on their bottom to make them deeper. Use an insulation thickness that leaves an inch space to the roof deck.

As an alternative you can make an insulated horizontal ceiling at a comfortable height for your size by suspending joists from the rafters. This ceiling would not go all the way to the sides of the barn. The area from the edge of the ceiling to the wall would be insulated between the rafters. The ceiling would have to only support itself so it can be put up like a suspended ceiling with wire ties and a light weight grid frame.

Tell me a little more about the roof construction and we can work out a plan.

Insulating the top will significantly improve heat retention once the sides are closed.

[hubster5]

I assume this is an old building with peaked roof on rafters and not trusses.

You can insulate the roof by placing insulation between the rafters. This would be easy if the rafters were 2x6. If they are only 2x4 then maybe you can add some sticks on their bottom to make them deeper. Use an insulation thickness that leaves an inch space to the roof deck.

As an alternative you can make an insulated horizontal ceiling at a comfortable height for your size by suspending joists from the rafters. This ceiling would not go all the way to the sides of the barn. The area from the edge of the ceiling to the wall would be insulated between the rafters. The ceiling would have to only support itself so it can be put up like a suspended ceiling with wire ties and a light weight grid frame.

Tell me a little more about the roof construction and we can work out a plan.

Insulating the top will significantly improve heat retention once the sides are closed.

You got it - just rafters - I had to move the first one up to get a good door put in (sawzall work). I would estimate that the bottom of the rafters are at about 7' - maybe less... comfortable where they are for my height - but not much play. I have another bldg that I remodeled a few years ago.. it was about 6' - those I cut out completely and moved up 10" or so, then hung OSB and insulated, so I am not new to the construction part, just had not really considered the heat loss I would be battling with the ceiling (sometimes I tend to miss the obvious). And the rafters are all rough cut sawmill lumber - and the sizes appear to vary from 4" to 6" - (This all came from the time when you made do with what you had- and I am wired that way to an extent myself).

I would likely just panel the ceiling with OSB or the like, something thin if I can get it cheap, and roll out the pink stuff.

The "loft" was originally used to store lumber across the rafters, with a small door to the outside for "handing up" the lumber. I have removed that door and finished the front - no windows, just one door and solid siding. I figured if I wanted windows I could cut them in later, as the front of the bldg was basically falling off... now it is good to go, and I am working my way around the 2 remaining sides with studs and t-111. The 4th side has a smaller enclosed shed built off of it - so I will likely need to use OSB or something to fill in between the few studs on that wall before insulating. (That wall is inaccessible from the outside).

[inetdog]

You got it - just rafters - I had to move the first one up to get a good door put in (sawzall work). I would estimate that the bottom of the rafters are at about 7' - maybe less... comfortable where they are for my height - but not much play.

If you put in a ceiling for insulation, keep in mind that you may have to redo your lighting significantly to get comparable are coverage with lower fixtures. Are your current luminaires above or level with the rafters?

[hubster5]

If you put in a ceiling for insulation, keep in mind that you may have to redo your lighting significantly to get comparable are coverage with lower fixtures. Are your current luminaires above or level with the rafters?

That's the easiest one of all - there is currently no power at all to this building. It is set far enough from the house to be cost prohibitive to make a run - at least that is my excuse for the panel kit that I have waiting to go up on it (dual project heat & power) - my parallel project is to get some solar up and running out there - just some lights and charge tools at first - then with some measure of success - a potential scale up on the panels and batteries...

That is why I was asking the forced air questions earlier - I will have limited power, maybe enough to run some 12v computer fans, but no serious wattage, in the beginning.

[SunEagle]

That's the easiest one of all - there is currently no power at all to this building. It is set far enough from the house to be cost prohibitive to make a run - at least that is my excuse for the panel kit that I have waiting to go up on it (dual project heat & power) - my parallel project is to get some solar up and running out there - just some lights and charge tools at first - then with some measure of success - a potential scale up on the panels and batteries...

That is why I was asking the forced air questions earlier - I will have limited power, maybe enough to run some 12v computer fans, but no serious wattage, in the beginning.

Even if the run between the house and the shed is 1000 feet it is still cheaper to run the cable instead of building an off-grid pv system. Of course if the ground is solid granite the price would go up but a "ditch witch" is cheap to rent and make your cut to lay U/G cable.

[hubster5]

Even if the run between the house and the shed is 1000 feet it is still cheaper to run the cable instead of building an off-grid pv system. Of course if the ground is solid granite the price would go up but a "ditch witch" is cheap to rent and make your cut to lay U/G cable.

yes - it is sold rock, although I have not explored diverting around, as that would involve sneaking over the property line a bit...

But the limited solar install will only cost a couple hundred bucks + I get to learn the basics of the system, and I have a source for no/low cost batteries - so I am in for the experience as much as the practical gains.

[SunEagle]

yes - it is sold rock, although I have not explored diverting around, as that would involve sneaking over the property line a bit...

But the limited solar install will only cost a couple hundred bucks + I get to learn the basics of the system, and I have a source for no/low cost batteries - so I am in for the experience as much as the practical gains.

Then I would say have a good time learning about the technology.

I just didn't want you to spend a lot of cash on a pv system that would not support your needs but empty your bank account.

[hubster5]

Then I would say have a good time learning about the technology.

I just didn't want you to spend a lot of cash on a pv system that would not support your needs but empty your bank account.

Point taken! This building currently has no power at all - so having a little will be nice to keep the rechargeables topped off, and maybe a 12v light or two. I have a generator if i need real power... and I may be inclined to scale up the solar system down the road - just a learning project more than anything!