I have an actual install scheduled by the largest local Sunpower dealer next week and suddenly am facing 1/3 cost increase due to the roofing issues.
The house is built in 1997. I have bought it this year and have not discovered any roof problems (yet?). The company did an install on a nearby house last year, same model and type of brittle "Mexican" clay S tile.
The owner, who referred me to the installer, told me that the install was problematic and the company had some additional expense which they absorbed.
His tiles were only removed in the area of the panels and around, asphalt shingles applied, standoffs put on (I suppose with flashing), modules installed and tiles reinstalled, I would say completely.
When the company sent the field crew to inspect my roof 4 months ago, they roamed on the roof and broke immediately many tiles. They made not about this and told me the tiles will be replaced with the actual install. They sent a roofer they outsource the roofing to for a flat fee on each install to made a pre-install inspection. On a side, he complained how the company tries to make money off him. I presume due to higher complexity of this job, he wants more rewards and was up-selling (??) me his services with justification, that if he shall give his 2 year warranty it has to be done in his way:
On the sides of the roof, where any panels will be installed (so not only below and around the panels), completely remove the tiles up to the hip, overlap a 15# paper over the hip and cover with it the whole exposed roof, apply shingle roll at the width of the panel array TOP DOWN, i.e. from the hip down to the bottom edge, install panels, and then he will reapply the tiles to the edge of the panels (only).
I searched the board for related discussion and attached excerpts at the end of my posting. It seems to me that he is over-engineering the solution with covering the whole roof with a new paper and applying the asphalt shingles top-down, not only below and close around the panels.
To some extent as a layman I understand that this would be the most bomb proof solution, but I would had to pat him $5k for this "extra" work.
The company is quiet, not a peep, kind of like that we have to sort it out with the roofer.
The language in the contract related to my issue:
- they guarantee the roof to 4" around the roof penetrations for 2 years,
- they can drop the contract with me for what ever reason
- they may ask for conditions to be rectified before the install.
They sure also realize that I am one of the last who got the excellent prepaid lease before the prices went up. They may just push me to swallow the cost. I can get in posturing that such price increase negates the deal for me and pretend to walk away, but they possibly know that I would not.
I can try to make some side cash deal with the roofer to bring the cost down. Least expensive ($0)? would be to insist that the work is performed in a similar way as on my neighbor roof and how it was described in the work order I glanced over the roofer's shoulder.
My main question is whether the offered re-roofing is not necessary and how to deal with the installer if I would like to go the re-roofing way. I have no insight how much the flat fee is for the roofer...
Also if you have any suggestion re the language in the roofing proposal.
My current proposal language
Pitched Roof:
1-Remove existing clay tile, to clean deck.
2-Remove existing hip & ridge mud.
3-Remove existing hip & ridge post.
4-Clean up all debri before dry-in.
5-Install new 15# underlayment (over existing paper)
6-Install new shingle 3-tab (Terracotta or Copper Color)
7-Re-Install clay tile back in place (arround array area)
8-Re-Install hip & ridge mud back in place.
9-Re-Install hip & ridge post back in place.
10-Replace High Dormer Vent Attic Ventilation for a low profile vent if needed. This will be at an extra charge.
11-Clean up trash and haul away all debris
Board excerpt below:
In http://www.solarpaneltalk.com/showth...blem-for-Solar
When installing solar panels on a tile roof they will be removed, and the standoffs are attached directly to the underlying rafters. Then the standoffs are flashed just like any other vent so they will be waterproofed.
If your roof tiles are really fragile (i.e. antique spanish mission tiles, etc.) the contractor (or you if you are doing it yourself) should probably consider having a roofer come out and remove the tiles under the area where the array is going. Commonly, the roofer will then lay comp shingles under the array and then replace the tiles around the array once it is installed for a clean appearance.
Generally..
Remove the tile, seal a mounting device to roof, put a threaded rod through a hole in the tile and into the mounting device and the rails.
or
Cut a big hole and put a standoff through it, sealed and with a flashing.
or
Remove the tiles in the area, install shingle roof in that section, reinstall tiles around the border and it blends in.
---------------------------------
The roof is a definite consideration when doing solar and it largely depends of the age and type of the roof. If it's a tile roof there is usually no need to replace the entire roof but if the existing roof is ten years old then the paper under the tile may need to be replaced but the original tile roof re-installed. Unless the roof is clay tile and not cement than most of the time you replace the area where the array goes with a composition roof. And as King said if you have a comp roof that has less than 20 years on the waranty it take it down to the sheathing (if there is any) and replace that sucker
If you have a Spanish tile roof there is extra consideration about leaking. Here there is a trend toward replacing the area to be covered by solar panels with a composite roof, and then placing back the tiles around the pv panels for aesthetic purposes. The claim is that this is less prone to leaks...
Tile roof applications if roof is already tiled, is better to remove all tiles then apply bitumen composite, then feet anchors, use butyl tape for thear anchoring, then apply tar over anchor heads for additional water proofing.
I would recommend a flashing as opposed to the butyl tape/sealant installation,
If you have a shingle or tile roof and they are not double-flashing, you can
kiss any existing roof warranty bye-bye.
I've not seen a good install over spanish (half round) tile. The best was to strip the roof under the array area, install asphalt shingles, and the array over that. Array both hides and protects the asphalt shingles, and you avoid a tile breaking 6 months from now as stress builds.
The house is built in 1997. I have bought it this year and have not discovered any roof problems (yet?). The company did an install on a nearby house last year, same model and type of brittle "Mexican" clay S tile.
The owner, who referred me to the installer, told me that the install was problematic and the company had some additional expense which they absorbed.
His tiles were only removed in the area of the panels and around, asphalt shingles applied, standoffs put on (I suppose with flashing), modules installed and tiles reinstalled, I would say completely.
When the company sent the field crew to inspect my roof 4 months ago, they roamed on the roof and broke immediately many tiles. They made not about this and told me the tiles will be replaced with the actual install. They sent a roofer they outsource the roofing to for a flat fee on each install to made a pre-install inspection. On a side, he complained how the company tries to make money off him. I presume due to higher complexity of this job, he wants more rewards and was up-selling (??) me his services with justification, that if he shall give his 2 year warranty it has to be done in his way:
On the sides of the roof, where any panels will be installed (so not only below and around the panels), completely remove the tiles up to the hip, overlap a 15# paper over the hip and cover with it the whole exposed roof, apply shingle roll at the width of the panel array TOP DOWN, i.e. from the hip down to the bottom edge, install panels, and then he will reapply the tiles to the edge of the panels (only).
I searched the board for related discussion and attached excerpts at the end of my posting. It seems to me that he is over-engineering the solution with covering the whole roof with a new paper and applying the asphalt shingles top-down, not only below and close around the panels.
To some extent as a layman I understand that this would be the most bomb proof solution, but I would had to pat him $5k for this "extra" work.
The company is quiet, not a peep, kind of like that we have to sort it out with the roofer.
The language in the contract related to my issue:
- they guarantee the roof to 4" around the roof penetrations for 2 years,
- they can drop the contract with me for what ever reason
- they may ask for conditions to be rectified before the install.
They sure also realize that I am one of the last who got the excellent prepaid lease before the prices went up. They may just push me to swallow the cost. I can get in posturing that such price increase negates the deal for me and pretend to walk away, but they possibly know that I would not.
I can try to make some side cash deal with the roofer to bring the cost down. Least expensive ($0)? would be to insist that the work is performed in a similar way as on my neighbor roof and how it was described in the work order I glanced over the roofer's shoulder.
My main question is whether the offered re-roofing is not necessary and how to deal with the installer if I would like to go the re-roofing way. I have no insight how much the flat fee is for the roofer...
Also if you have any suggestion re the language in the roofing proposal.
My current proposal language
Pitched Roof:
1-Remove existing clay tile, to clean deck.
2-Remove existing hip & ridge mud.
3-Remove existing hip & ridge post.
4-Clean up all debri before dry-in.
5-Install new 15# underlayment (over existing paper)
6-Install new shingle 3-tab (Terracotta or Copper Color)
7-Re-Install clay tile back in place (arround array area)
8-Re-Install hip & ridge mud back in place.
9-Re-Install hip & ridge post back in place.
10-Replace High Dormer Vent Attic Ventilation for a low profile vent if needed. This will be at an extra charge.
11-Clean up trash and haul away all debris
Board excerpt below:
In http://www.solarpaneltalk.com/showth...blem-for-Solar
When installing solar panels on a tile roof they will be removed, and the standoffs are attached directly to the underlying rafters. Then the standoffs are flashed just like any other vent so they will be waterproofed.
If your roof tiles are really fragile (i.e. antique spanish mission tiles, etc.) the contractor (or you if you are doing it yourself) should probably consider having a roofer come out and remove the tiles under the area where the array is going. Commonly, the roofer will then lay comp shingles under the array and then replace the tiles around the array once it is installed for a clean appearance.
Generally..
Remove the tile, seal a mounting device to roof, put a threaded rod through a hole in the tile and into the mounting device and the rails.
or
Cut a big hole and put a standoff through it, sealed and with a flashing.
or
Remove the tiles in the area, install shingle roof in that section, reinstall tiles around the border and it blends in.
---------------------------------
The roof is a definite consideration when doing solar and it largely depends of the age and type of the roof. If it's a tile roof there is usually no need to replace the entire roof but if the existing roof is ten years old then the paper under the tile may need to be replaced but the original tile roof re-installed. Unless the roof is clay tile and not cement than most of the time you replace the area where the array goes with a composition roof. And as King said if you have a comp roof that has less than 20 years on the waranty it take it down to the sheathing (if there is any) and replace that sucker
If you have a Spanish tile roof there is extra consideration about leaking. Here there is a trend toward replacing the area to be covered by solar panels with a composite roof, and then placing back the tiles around the pv panels for aesthetic purposes. The claim is that this is less prone to leaks...
Tile roof applications if roof is already tiled, is better to remove all tiles then apply bitumen composite, then feet anchors, use butyl tape for thear anchoring, then apply tar over anchor heads for additional water proofing.
I would recommend a flashing as opposed to the butyl tape/sealant installation,
If you have a shingle or tile roof and they are not double-flashing, you can
kiss any existing roof warranty bye-bye.
I've not seen a good install over spanish (half round) tile. The best was to strip the roof under the array area, install asphalt shingles, and the array over that. Array both hides and protects the asphalt shingles, and you avoid a tile breaking 6 months from now as stress builds.
Comment