You can always have a conductor (bus or wire) that is capable of carrying more amperage than the breaker/fuse protecting it.
And I think most panels you can replace the main breaker for it (ex. 200A) with a smaller one (ex. 100A)
Embedded in the concrete wall?
Not just inside a stucco wall or surface mount?
The builder must have really hated people.
So I think what you're saying that you currently have a combination meter-panel with a 100A breaker. And that feeds a 100A subpanel.
So you currently have
<meter>===<100A_breaker>==<2AWG_wire>== <100A_rated_subpanel_with_household_loads>
And you're planning to change that to be:
<meter>===<100A_breaker>==<2AWG_wire>==<200A_rat ed _subpanel>==<100A_breaker>==<2AWG_wire>== <exist_100A_subp>
.................................................. .........\\==<40A_breaker>==<inverter>
(ignore the periods, they're there to ensure spacing is good)
I do not know if you would have to have a 100A breaker at the top of that subpanel, or not.
I think you could do a 100A breaker at the top of the subpanel (fed from the meter panel), a 100A output breaker, a 40A backfeed breaker, and use a panel with a 125A rated bus and be compliant to the 120% rule. (125A * 1.2 = 150A)
I'm not a licensed electrician, but I think that'd meet the requirements for protecting the conductors. And probably be cheaper/more readily available than a 200A subpanel.
(and you should probably check the 2AWG for 100A - I didn't look that up, but since that's what you currently have for 100A from the main to the subpanel...)
And I think most panels you can replace the main breaker for it (ex. 200A) with a smaller one (ex. 100A)
The situation is that for residential accounts only one meter is allowed. So, I can't do a supply side tap. The integrated 100-amp combo meter/panel is old and I have not found an UL approved bus tap (the connection from the meter to the breaker is a bus, not a cable). The problem is that the combo meter/panel is in a concrete wall. And replacing it and/or making a tap (before or after the breaker) will be expensive.
Not just inside a stucco wall or surface mount?
The builder must have really hated people.

The cheaper solution, in this case, would be to put a small 200-amp panel between the 100-amp combo meter/panel and the 100-amp distribution panel. Put a 100-amp input breaker and one 100-amp breaker to feed the distribution panel and one 40-amp breaker for the inverter. The only problem I have is that I'm not sure if this is acceptable under NEC. Does the 120% rule apply only to the panel where the inverter is connected, or do I need to replace the service and feeder cable with 200-amp cable?
So you currently have
<meter>===<100A_breaker>==<2AWG_wire>== <100A_rated_subpanel_with_household_loads>
And you're planning to change that to be:
<meter>===<100A_breaker>==<2AWG_wire>==<200A_rat ed _subpanel>==<100A_breaker>==<2AWG_wire>== <exist_100A_subp>
.................................................. .........\\==<40A_breaker>==<inverter>
(ignore the periods, they're there to ensure spacing is good)
I do not know if you would have to have a 100A breaker at the top of that subpanel, or not.
I think you could do a 100A breaker at the top of the subpanel (fed from the meter panel), a 100A output breaker, a 40A backfeed breaker, and use a panel with a 125A rated bus and be compliant to the 120% rule. (125A * 1.2 = 150A)
I'm not a licensed electrician, but I think that'd meet the requirements for protecting the conductors. And probably be cheaper/more readily available than a 200A subpanel.
(and you should probably check the 2AWG for 100A - I didn't look that up, but since that's what you currently have for 100A from the main to the subpanel...)
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