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  • foo1bar
    Solar Fanatic
    • Aug 2014
    • 1833

    #106
    Originally posted by bcroe
    You are never going to cause a frequency shift. Hope "they" reprogram the inverters; its a lot better to do it yourself. Having your
    big new investment shut down is not good. Maybe a consideration of any inverter purchase should be if you can program it.
    Bruce Roe
    A "frequency shift" may be no more than a delayed rising edge or a spurious voltage spike.
    And a large motor being turned on and off could affect the waveform enough that I believe the inverters could interpret it as a frequency shift.

    None of the inverters allow you (the installer or owner) to program it.
    I think all the major manufacturers allow you to upload new programming from the manufacturer.
    I wouldn't expect that situation to change - otherwise they risk being sued for an idiot reprogramming the inverter to do 480V in the US.

    Comment

    • bcroe
      Solar Fanatic
      • Jan 2012
      • 5209

      #107
      Originally posted by foo1bar
      A "frequency shift" may be no more than a delayed rising edge or a spurious voltage spike.
      And a large motor being turned on and off could affect the waveform enough that I believe the inverters could interpret it as a frequency shift.

      None of the inverters allow you (the installer or owner) to program it.
      I think all the major manufacturers allow you to upload new programming from the manufacturer.
      I wouldn't expect that situation to change - otherwise they risk being sued for an idiot reprogramming the inverter to do 480V in the US.
      Yes the inverters made possible by recent (to me) technological advances are quite sensitive, and subject to rules and software
      that hasn't caught up with the real world yet. If the PoCos insist on 125/250V set points plus tolerance, then rules need to match,
      plus considering the voltage RISE (not the DROP we are so used to thinking about) for this app. I would not advocate or expect
      to encounter a 240VAC inverter capable of 480VAC output, but it should have at least a HIGH LINE sort of operating option. Keep
      in mind, a residential scale PV system CANNOT set the line voltage, and it can't operate without the line.

      Yea the edge of a 60HZ sine could get beat up by a motor or SCR control or other heavy load, but I'd be inclined to call that a
      phase change. They still occur at the SAME RATE (frequency) or period as set by the rotating machinery at the nuke plant down
      the road. Bruce Roe

      Comment

      • pclausen
        Solar Fanatic
        • Oct 2016
        • 153

        #108
        Well good news. The POCO has agreed to draw up a letter stating that they are ok with me having my inverters programmed to operate at a voltage higher than 253.5V. I figured that if my average voltage from the POCO is 250V, adding 10% for a max of 275V should cover any scenario. The inverters probably have an engineering upper limit, but I'm sure the vendor will know and know program above whatever that is.

        In other news, I got the rails all installed today and will start mounting the panels to them tomorrow. After calculating the distances between the rails, I ran a tape measure across both cross pipe and marked with blue electrical tape where the bracket edges should be. I then figured out how far in from the edge of the rails the brackets should be, and pre-mounted them.



        I also got my sense monitor today. Here it is installed in the disconnect switch. One set of CTs are on the load going to the house, the other set of CTs are on the feed coming from the shop. I do have a few devices that are always on in the shop, like a 10 port switch, a WiFi access point, and the solar gateway. Between them, they consume maybe 30W, so no big deal. The sense might actually be able to adjust that out of the total it shows me.



        Technically you are supposed to power it from a 240V breaker, but that would have been a pain. So I just crimped on some connectors and slipped them under 3 mountings screws to pick up L1, L2 and Neutral. I'll add some small in-line fuses when I get a chance.

        So here's what the Sense App looks like on in iPhone. Here's the default view:



        And the view showing the power consumption over time. It is very sensitive to anything in the home being turned on and off as can be seen



        Zoomed out view since I installed it this afternoon:




        It will take it a few days to identify all my devices and there will of course be some that I won't be able to ID. But I'll work with the sense team to tell them what they are. For example, I suspect it will have a hard time with my various UPS'es and Laser Printers. On the other hand, it should easily be able to identify stuff like microwaves, fridges, washer, dryers, garage door openers, HVAC, etc, as those all the recognizable power signatures.

        For someone doing Solar, this looks to be a really nifty device. Those couple of screenshots are just the tip of the iceberg. Once they get the web app online, and give me direct access to all my power data in the cloud, I should be able to gain great insight into the power all my devices consume.
        Last edited by pclausen; 12-02-2016, 06:51 PM.

        Comment

        • DanS26
          Solar Fanatic
          • Dec 2011
          • 987

          #109
          Just be aware that those devices have a hard time to identify variable speed devices like blower motors, hair dryers, water heaters, etc.

          Comment

          • pclausen
            Solar Fanatic
            • Oct 2016
            • 153

            #110
            That is probably true, although the Sense is a new entry into the market that samples at several million times per second. Once the distinct signature of each device has been identified, you can then manually turn on each of those devices one by one, see which of the devices marked unknown starts to use power, and then label it accordingly.

            Make good progress yesterday. Got the panels out to the front of the array after completing the grounding.



            1st row went on real easy. 2nd row was little more work since I had to raise each panel up from "inside" the ground mount. 3rd row was more of a pain, since I had to use a step ladder to raise each panel up high enough to clear the rails and then lay them down. No way the step ladder would have worked for the 4th row, so I resorted to using the loader for that row. Guess I had gotten spoiled from doing the roof array first, since all I had to do was drop each panel down into position.



            Got 3 of them done before dark. Getting ready to get the last 3 done this morning, then do my wiring and bring them online!

            Comment

            • DanS26
              Solar Fanatic
              • Dec 2011
              • 987

              #111
              All I can say is that array is well grounded......in more ways than one. Thanks for taking the time to post pics of your progress.

              Comment

              • Mike90250
                Moderator
                • May 2009
                • 16020

                #112
                Looks like a great install. do you do contract work & travel ? And it helps to have the machines to do the work.
                Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
                || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
                || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

                solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
                gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

                Comment

                • bcroe
                  Solar Fanatic
                  • Jan 2012
                  • 5209

                  #113
                  That installation may outlast a couple generations of the electronic parts. But get rid of those tree stumps. I try to get mine underground
                  and grassed over right away, before any tree huggers see them. Bruce Roe

                  Comment

                  • pclausen
                    Solar Fanatic
                    • Oct 2016
                    • 153

                    #114
                    Haha, I was thinking the same thing when I uploaded that pic with the stumps showing. Don't worry, I have a stump grinder for the tractor, they will be gone soon.

                    Here are some pics of the (almost) completed install. (sorry to those on metered data rates, I like to post pics!)







                    I ended up using 3/4" PVC conduit and then reducers down to 1/2" for the last bit to the end run connectors of each string. That 1/2" conduit coming up the pole is for the cat 5e cable.



                    Here's the 23' run from the array to the shop.



                    I wrapped the 3/4" conduit for the strings around the corner of the shop building.



                    Since the meter base at the shop is really just a junction box for the shop sub-panel, I figured I'd save myself some time and just feed the wires from the ground based arrays through it to the sub-panel on the other side. If the inspector has an issue with it, I can easily drill a hole for a separate conduit, or bypass the "meter base" completely. I will leave plenty of slack wire in the sub-panel, should that end up being the case.



                    A couple of shots showing all 80 panels in all their glory.





                    All that is left to do is to screw down the wires to the end run connectors, and connect the wires to the 2 20A breakers inside the panel. Also need to pull the cat5e cable for the solar gateway. I hate how it gets dark so early this time of year (so my my panels)
                    Last edited by pclausen; 12-04-2016, 08:43 PM.

                    Comment

                    • pclausen
                      Solar Fanatic
                      • Oct 2016
                      • 153

                      #115
                      Originally posted by Mike90250
                      Looks like a great install. do you do contract work & travel ? And it helps to have the machines to do the work.
                      Not at this time Mike. I have a full time boring IT management job, but if I could make it work financially, I would seriously consider it!

                      Comment

                      • pclausen
                        Solar Fanatic
                        • Oct 2016
                        • 153

                        #116
                        Well, after the wife and kids went to bed, and having enjoyed a "few" single malts, I decided to complete connecting the ground mount array, despite the rain that started a few hours ago.

                        So here are the End Runs connected and me cheating and using a temporary cable for the gateway:



                        And a shot of the shop sub-panel. Like I said before, plenty of slack in the wiring in case the inspector does not want me to run though the meter base j-box.

                        Comment

                        • tyab
                          Solar Fanatic
                          • Sep 2016
                          • 227

                          #117
                          I need your tractor! Took us 5 people to put up row 5, two sitting on the top of 8' ladders to lift it over the rail and 3 to hand up the panel to us. You are making great progress.

                          Comment

                          • foo1bar
                            Solar Fanatic
                            • Aug 2014
                            • 1833

                            #118
                            The "23 foot" conduit - it looks like it's buried under only a few inches of dirt. And it looks like it's PVC.

                            PVC conduit should be 18" or 24" deep. (or under 4" of concrete or 12" down when under 2" thick concrete.)

                            See table 300.5 of NEC.

                            Comment

                            • pclausen
                              Solar Fanatic
                              • Oct 2016
                              • 153

                              #119
                              The PVC conduit dips down in the center to about 20", but you're right, right, where it comes off the concrete footer at the shop and array, it is only a few inches. I plan to add some 6x6 treated posts on the array side to make the path between the shop and array level by adding fill dirt, and then a few inches of #57 gravel on top.

                              Comment

                              • bcroe
                                Solar Fanatic
                                • Jan 2012
                                • 5209

                                #120
                                Originally posted by tyab
                                I need your tractor! Took us 5 people to put up row 5, two sitting on the top of 8' ladders to lift it over the rail and
                                3 to hand up the panel to us. You are making great progress.
                                I'm going to suggest a procedure, of sliding the top row up from the bottom first, then do lower rows the same way.
                                Bruce (who does almost everything alone) Roe

                                Comment

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