Questions to ask salesman about mounting racks.

[skellig]

Going to be getting four quotes over the next two weeks. What questions should I be asking about mounting racks and hardware? What are some good quality racks? I get concerned when I think of all the roof penetrations, is there a special tool to locate the roof joists or are they tapping with a hammer?

Last year I got three quotes that ranged from 3.30 to 4.10 a watt. Not one of them had any info on racking. Was not ready to move forward then. Much better educated now thanks to this forum and ready to move ahead. Will post quotes for feedback. Thanks.

[sensij]

Techniques to find rafters vary with installers, but a more experienced installer has generally learned what works best for them and should not miss too often. With respect to racking, Ironridge, Unirac, Prosolar, and QuickmountPV are three big names in racking and mounting with not very much differentiation (more differentiation on the mounting/flashing than racking). Best practice for mounting is understood to use single or double flashing at each penetration... simply gooping up the hole around the fastener is likely to lead to problems down the road. Even if the rafter is missed on the first try, many flashed mounts are large enough to cover and protect it along with the correctly located penetration.

[randomuser]

Skellig, this is my biggest concern too and I created a topic about roof leaks last weekend. The replies have been helpful. Sensij's info above is helpful too. I also found it helpful to watch some installation training videos on Youtube, from Ironridge and Quickmount PV. That provided info for me to have an intelligent conversation with installers. Good luck with your search for an installer.

[solarix]

Demand all stainless steel hardware. Most mounting systems do use S.S. , but there are plenty of exceptions and I've run into issues with some suppliers that claim it is all S.S. and then use something else. Also, make sure they use thread lube on the stainless threads as most installers don't. It threads together just fine, but then some time in the future when you need to disassemble something, the stainless threads will be galled up and you will have to break the bolts and replace them. I would also question them in particular on the specific bolt used to fasten to your roof's framing. Most systems use simple old 5/16" lag screws which if not stainless, are often times really bad steel. The lag bolts found in most big-box stores are really crappy Chinese junk. 5/16" is awfully fat anyway and tends to split your rafters especially if you are using a mount that puts 2 screws in per mount. I recommend using the new engineered screws which are readily available at HD. Either Simpson or SPAX brand, size 1/4", exterior type with pullout specs over 1000lb. I haven't been able to convince any of the usual mounting suppliers to make this change to their product which is why we have gone to our own custom mounting system and why you should quiz your installer about this subject specifically.

Also, don't believe everything that the mounting companies say about their "flashed" mounts. Yes, the roofing industry is shifting to requiring flashings on all penetrations, but the definition of "penetration" is plumbing vents, skylights, conduit, etc - not fasteners. A simple compression seal is perfectly fine.

[ButchDeal]

Also, don't believe everything that the mounting companies say about their "flashed" mounts. Yes, the roofing industry is shifting to requiring flashings on all penetrations, but the definition of "penetration" is plumbing vents, skylights, conduit, etc - not fasteners. A simple compression seal is perfectly fine.

I would require a flashed mount. Any one attempting to do anything other than flashed mounts on shingles, tiles, or shakes should be sent packing.

[solarix]

We've researched into this extensively, and found that shingle manufacturers say you void their warranty if you so much as break the seal on shingles let alone pull out nails as is required when installing solar mount flashings.

[skellig]

Thanks, sensij, solarix,random and butch for your replies. My other concern is one roof surface has six obstructions( plumbing vents, furnace pvc, bathroom exhaust) Do most installers just go around these or do they want to move them to make the array more attractive? It is on the rear of house so it can not be seen from street. The lower roof surface has no obstructions but will get some morning shading due to chimney. Will have panels on both roofs.

[solarix]

Usually, panels are mounted around the obstructions as most building depts prohibit going over the top of vents. I would encourage you to take the extra time (even if the installer won't do it) to relocate plumbing vents to allow the array to be as contiguous as possible.

[inetdog]

Usually, panels are mounted around the obstructions as most building depts prohibit going over the top of vents. I would encourage you to take the extra time (even if the installer won't do it) to relocate plumbing vents to allow the array to be as contiguous as possible.

When relocating the vents, keep in mind that both homeowners and professional plumbers may want to make use of the vent stacks as an access route for clearing pipe clogs. Avoid covering the opening but also avoid 90 degree bends close to each other.

[skellig]

The other question is rails or rail-less. Has anyone heard of or used Ecolibrium rail-less mounting? It seems relatively new. Spoke with one salesman today and he said they use both Ecolibrium rail-less and Ironridge with rails. Which one would be better?

[sensij]

The other question is rails or rail-less. Has anyone heard of or used Ecolibrium rail-less mounting? It seems relatively new. Spoke with one salesman today and he said they use both Ecolibrium rail-less and Ironridge with rails. Which one would be better?

Count the number of penetrations required for the rail-less system vs the rail system, and see what you think.

[solarix]

I'm not a fan of the rail-less systems. Can potentially be less expensive but the downside I find is that you have to be too accurate with placing the mounts and lose flexibility in working around vents and all the rest of the problems which can crop up on an install.

[skellig]

Thanks for the feedback. What about the skirts along the front edge of the panels, I've seen that a lot lately. Is that recommended? I would be worried about leaves getting stuck underneath.

[ButchDeal]

Thanks for the feedback. What about the skirts along the front edge of the panels, I've seen that a lot lately. Is that recommended? I would be worried about leaves getting stuck underneath.

some of those are railless systems that front edge. Not a fan of railless and not a fan of putting decorative front edges on as dirt/leaves/snow can get behind it.

[skellig]

Thanks Butch. We have a lot of trees nearby and leaves do land on the roof on a breezy fall day.