Solar install turning out really bad - looking for some help/advice please.

[silversaver]

cracking tiles are very common during installation, all depends on if they fix or replace the tiles at end of installation, no big deal.

Seriously, the OP has spent so much time research solar....etc, but why choose a F rating installer for the job? The actual saving after Fed incentive isn't really that much after all. Most of new contractors starting new business usually will take extra miles for good review and asking for referrals, very unlikely they will fock up any work unless they really have no idea what they are doing. I'm not here to bashing at you, but there's is way you can work out with your installer. Oh well, where do you think the profit were from if the installer not cutting materials or labors?

The only reason I said the installer cutting corner and no need to look at other jobs is they are not bother to use conduit because it will take them more work. Here is the picture of OP's original setup.

[HX_Guy]

The reason I went with this installer is because they are part of a business barter group that we are as well and I could pay for half the project that way, otherwise their pricing was pretty much on par with other installers...but it was a "cash out of pocket" savings of $14,500.

[sensij]

The reason I went with this installer is because they are part of a business barter group that we are as well and I could pay for half the project that way, otherwise their pricing was pretty much on par with other installers...but it was a "cash out of pocket" savings of $14,500.

I would suggest, at a minimum, if the installer is unwilling or unable to perform compliant work, that you take action to kick this installer out of your business barter group, and perhaps review the qualifications necessary for someone to become a member.

[silversaver]

BTW, that is UniRack 8" hanger bolt for SolarMount part # UniRac 030021C. Nothing special, just cheaper. I think there are few installer using it as standoff. cheaper....

[HX_Guy]

BTW, that is UniRack 8" hanger bolt for SolarMount part # UniRac 030021C. Nothing special, just cheaper. I think there are few installer using it as standoff. cheaper....

That sounds right from what I've been reading online and I know the installer used Unirac rails and Unirac L brackets, so it would make sense that the hanger bolts are also from Unirac. He didn't however use a washer on top and bottom of the L bracket as shown from Unirac.

I don't really care that it's "cheaper" (and I don't even know if you could call it that, seems the bolt is around $6-$7 which you could buy a hook mount for the same price). I just want to know if it's an ok method of attaching the rails to the roof and they won't break.

http://unirac.com/sites/default/files/ii209.pdf

[sensij]

I just want to know if it's an ok method of attaching the rails to the roof and they won't break.

Have the responses in the thread not been enough to convince you?

Try page 33.

[sdold]

This is from the 2012 IBC and is repeated in the California building code and probably whatever is in effect where you live, and I think it's the last word on your mounts:

1509.7 Photovoltaic systems.
Rooftop mounted photovoltaic systems shall be designed in accordance with this section.

1509.7.1 Wind resistance.
Rooftop mounted photovoltaic systems shall be designed for wind loads for component and cladding in accordance with Chapter 16 using an effective wind area based on the dimensions of a single unit frame.

1509.7.2 Fire classification.
Rooftop mounted photovoltaic systems shall have the same fire classification as the roof assembly required by Section 1505.

1509.7.3 Installation.
Rooftop mounted photovoltaic systems shall be installed in accordance with the manufacturer's installation instructions.

1509.7.4 Photovoltaic panels and modules.
Photovoltaic panels and modules mounted on top of a roof shall be listed and labeled in accordance with UL 1703 and shall be installed in accordance with the manufacturer's installation instructions.

[silversaver]

ok. My installer using the same standoff with UniRack and I don't think there is any problem with the design.

The only concern is how your installer following the insturction on installation.

You have spend so much time researching this and that...... You probably spent 3 X more in reserching, but others have no problem because they knew the basic: choose a good installer.... Are you expecting to get a good job from a F rating installer? When is the last time you hit the jackpot on lottery?

Now, talk to your installer on how you like it done. They might be a bad installer, but remember you choose them to be your installer.

[HX_Guy]

Thanks sdold. It does seem that the mounting method used is ok so that's good at least, though there is still the problem of just sealant as a means of "flashing". And the fact that the racking isn't all in the right place.

I spent some time measuring out where he put the racking and did an overlay with the panels in landscape and still meeting the fire code setback.
The lines in yellow I believe could be reused, or at least the hanger bolt locations as some need additional railing. The lines black would need to be completely removed and relocated.

[HX_Guy]

ok. My installer using the same standoff with UniRack and I don't think there is any problem with the design.

The only concern is how your installer following the insturction on installation.

You have spend so much time researching this and that...... You probably spent 3 X more in reserching, but others have no problem because they knew the basic: choose a good installer.... Are you expecting to get a good job from a F rating installer? When is the last time you hit the jackpot on lottery?

Now, talk to your installer on how you like it done. They might be a bad installer, but remember you choose them to be your installer.

Good to hear from someone who is using the same hanger bolt mounting method, I've been trying to find other examples and couldn't seem to find anyone.

Do you know how your's is sealed? Did they use any type of flashing or just silicone sealant? The installation seems pretty straight forward, only "critical" thing seems to be pre-drilling the pilot hole and I know he at least did that part. He did not however use a washer with the L bracket but that can be fixed pretty easily.

[silversaver]

Good to hear from someone who is using the same hanger bolt mounting method, I've been trying to find other examples and couldn't seem to find anyone.

Do you know how your's is sealed? Did they use any type of flashing or just silicone sealant? The installation seems pretty straight forward, only "critical" thing seems to be pre-drilling the pilot hole and I know he at least did that part. He did not however use a washer with the L bracket but that can be fixed pretty easily.

Just silicone sealant and washers. I agree that's cheapest method of installation job to save labor and material. I did my research instead bashing the installer. There's no flashing under tiles and I'm not sure how it will last. I'll try to ask one of the ex-worker from my solar installer. He has done few works for my friends and I.

[Alisobob]

zinc3.JPG

zinc2.JPG


Dude, I dont know how long you plan on staying in your house.... but by using zinc plated hardware... you so asking for trouble down the road.

Stainless is the way to go...

You have received allot of good info in this thread, but you seem hellbent of plowing forwards...

You need to stop... rethink EVERYTHING... and start over.

Anything less, and your asking for more trouble.

[Bikerscum]

Without sealant, let alone flashing under the tile I can't see how that would not leak. You are penetrating the underlayment making a water entry point. The diagram doesn't even show putting sealer in the hole for the lag?

[HX_Guy]

Dude, I dont know how long you plan on staying in your house.... but by using zinc plated hardware... you so asking for trouble down the road.

Stainless is the way to go...

Great, something else now. :/

Odd that Unirac would use a galvanized steel zinc plated bolt, I thought they were a reputable company?

[sensij]

Great, something else now. :/

Odd that Unirac would use a galvanized steel zinc plated bolt, I thought they were a reputable company?

Galvanized and zinc-plated are two different processes. Galvanized would be a reasonable alternative to stainless steel for exterior fasteners in some applications, zinc plated is not really. Look at all of Unirac's current products... it looks like the only zinc-plated hardware still included is in portions of the assembly that are under flashing or otherwise protected from the environment. Otherwise, stainless or galvanized fansters are specified.

The hanger bolt data sheet you found is dated 2009, and references a 2004 design guide. A copy of that design guide does not seem to be available on Unirac's site, but can be found in other places on the internet. Even that design guide does not even mention the use of hanger bolts, and suggests that installation on tile should use standoffs (as your permit application showed).

None of the current product literature on the SolarMount technical help or design pages shows the hanger bolt, or suggests that using it is a good idea. The installation instructions available for the standoffs is very detailed about how to flash and seal, and notably, all of what was zinc-plated hardware in version 1 of that document is now galvanized.

The fact that the hanger bolt is still sold and installed is probably a reflection of the fact that the industry has a population of people who see solar as a way to get your money into their pocket. If your installer had made at least an effort to flash and seal them properly, you could at least assume good intent. From the pictures you've shared, I only see an attempt to do the absolute minimum possible, for the least cost, without regard to safety, production, or reliability of the system.