I will keep an eye on it and report back. The good thing about this particular relay is it has two sets of terminals so if one side goes kaput maybe the other will still work unless the coil part gives up!!
Grid tie and battery together
Collapse
X
-
-
I’m hoping these sort of components have s bit of wiggle room on their specifications? Most things in the electrical industry are for safety.Comment
-
OK. Maybe you should look into a sturdier relay in case this one fails quickly. I really want to see you succeed in this test.Comment
-
Comment
-
No haven’t, I only work with 230/415 V AC. You get some pretty good arcs and bangs if you mess up tho, I have dozens of side cutters over the years that will attest to that lol.Comment
-
Yes, pics can be posted. Lowering the res from 12mega pixels to something more reasonable is recommended.
Here's a couple links to relays and failures and prevention
and this sort of outlines the problems too
As I understand it inrush current is the current when the contact closes. Resistance is not minimum yet, and still inrush current can be several times the nominal current, like 80A on a 10A relay. ...
Using high voltage Solid State Relays can work, but you need "snubbers" to cut down voltage spikes and surges which will fry SSR'sPowerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
|| Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
|| VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A
solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-ListerComment
-
That is helpful information, In this application a double throw relay is needed and I am not aware of any in SSRs in that format. I am familiar with inrush current on the DC battery side switching an Inverter or controller in an EV. I haven't tested it on my hybrid inverter because I always connect the batteries and then use the circuit breaker, I did see an episode of EVTV where they were using a contactor as a low voltage and high voltage cutoff and they did blow the capacitors or Power transistors in a Chinese Inverter.
This issue in this post is about the DC from the panels and the impact on the charge controller or gridtie inverter. I do not know the impact of switching the solar input to a charge controller or inverter. It is the capacitors that cause the surge currents and there very well may be capacitors on that side of those devices and that is what the OP should be aware of. The result will most likely be a welded contact the consequences of which the OP needs to be aware of if it could result in overcharging his batteries. I can't imagine a scenerio with a grid tie inverter where welded contacts on the solar side would be a problem.9 kW solar, 42kWh LFP storage. EV owner since 2012Comment
-
-
Comment
-
Solar comes in through that red switch. The negatives are commoned behind the panel. The positive goes to the tiny relay left of main switch.
From there it splits with one leg going to the white/grey MPPT CC and the other going to the Blue GT inverter.
The black cable from the bottom of GTI is the 230 volts AC and goes to that small white watt meter then down to the switch fused spur then into the socket and off into the house mains.
The grey/white MPPT CC feeds to the battery bank. There is a display screen in the house linked by a 30 metre (100 foot) Ethernet cable.
The silver box is a 24-12 volt transformer for my low volt circuits which include that black car cigarette socket. It connects to a blade fuse distribution unit on the right.
The round green lit display is a battery monitor.
The black thing under main MPPT and next to main switch is another watt meter.
The silver MPPT CC and yellow/grey display are a separate 12 volt system that will be removed as it’s redundant now I have the 24 volt system.
The grey ‘MPPT’ (PWM) CC at the bottom of the picture is the thing monitoring the battery bank and operating the relay.
Thats probably clear as mudbut maybe it will help others see what I’m on about here?
Last edited by Tired sparky; 03-31-2020, 07:59 AM.Comment
-
Ampster, are you saying there could be connections within the CC and or GTI that might not like being switched back and forth under a possible maximum load and might throw a wobbly?
I understand that in normal use solar CC’s gradually ramp up in power as the Sun rises so might not like sudden inrush current when being switched. Inverters should be ok as they operate as either on or off under a load demand?
I was actually in the solar shed today (we are under a soft lockdown here) when it switched from battery charge mode to Grid Tie mode with the faint click from the relay! Quite satisfying, I hope it lasts a while!!!
Whatever happens its anothet learning curve and I will update good/bad things that occur. Thanks for the good technical input from y’all.Last edited by Tired sparky; 03-31-2020, 08:25 AM.Comment
-
Ampster, are you saying there could be connections within the CC and or GTI that might not like being switched back and forth under a possible maximum load and might throw a wobbly?
.........
I was actually in the solar shed today (we are under a soft lockdown here) when it switched from battery charge mode to Grid Tie mode with the faint click from the relay! Quite satisfying, I hope it lasts a while!!!
Whatever happens its anothet learning curve and I will update good/bad things that occur.
.....
Most relays I have used are enclosed and the voltages and amps you are working with are reasonable. As you mention if you blow through a $15 relay I will be no big deal. The contacts will weld in one position or the other. The likelihood of a short circuit that creates those major spark storms is unlikely assuming you have fuses or circuit breakers in the right places.9 kW solar, 42kWh LFP storage. EV owner since 2012Comment
-
Thanks, ah yes good idea, it might pay to put a fuse after the main solar panel incoming switch. I was going to get a DC circuit breaker that would both be a switch and a short circuit current breaker but never did, instead using a regular AC 100 Amp domestic distribution board main switch I had to hand.Comment
-
Thanks, ah yes good idea, it might pay to put a fuse after the main solar panel incoming switch. I was going to get a DC circuit breaker that would both be a switch and a short circuit current breaker but never did, instead using a regular AC 100 Amp domestic distribution board main switch I had to hand.9 kW solar, 42kWh LFP storage. EV owner since 2012Comment
-
I don;t know what the regulations are in your country, but in the USA it is required to have a safety interlock between the grid and the GT inverter to protect the linemen working on a downed grid. Generally that is part of the the GT inverter. Does your inverter have that safety interlock?. In other words, does your GT inverter shut down when the grid is down? I am just checking my assumption that the use of the term GT inverter implies that it does.9 kW solar, 42kWh LFP storage. EV owner since 2012Comment
Comment