Grid tie and battery together

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  • Tired sparky
    Member
    • Jan 2020
    • 52

    #31
    I will keep an eye on it and report back. The good thing about this particular relay is it has two sets of terminals so if one side goes kaput maybe the other will still work unless the coil part gives up!!

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    • Tired sparky
      Member
      • Jan 2020
      • 52

      #32
      I’m hoping these sort of components have s bit of wiggle room on their specifications? Most things in the electrical industry are for safety.

      Comment

      • SunEagle
        Super Moderator
        • Oct 2012
        • 15151

        #33
        Originally posted by Tired sparky
        I will keep an eye on it and report back. The good thing about this particular relay is it has two sets of terminals so if one side goes kaput maybe the other will still work unless the coil part gives up!!
        OK. Maybe you should look into a sturdier relay in case this one fails quickly. I really want to see you succeed in this test.

        Comment

        • SunEagle
          Super Moderator
          • Oct 2012
          • 15151

          #34
          Originally posted by Tired sparky
          I’m hoping these sort of components have s bit of wiggle room on their specifications? Most things in the electrical industry are for safety.
          You are right but if you have never seen a DC arc flash you are missing out on a O **** event.

          Comment

          • Tired sparky
            Member
            • Jan 2020
            • 52

            #35
            No haven’t, I only work with 230/415 V AC. You get some pretty good arcs and bangs if you mess up tho, I have dozens of side cutters over the years that will attest to that lol.

            Comment

            • Mike90250
              Moderator
              • May 2009
              • 16020

              #36
              Yes, pics can be posted. Lowering the res from 12mega pixels to something more reasonable is recommended.

              Here's a couple links to relays and failures and prevention


              and this sort of outlines the problems too
              As I understand it inrush current is the current when the contact closes. Resistance is not minimum yet, and still inrush current can be several times the nominal current, like 80A on a 10A relay. ...


              Using high voltage Solid State Relays can work, but you need "snubbers" to cut down voltage spikes and surges which will fry SSR's
              Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
              || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
              || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

              solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
              gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

              Comment

              • Ampster
                Solar Fanatic
                • Jun 2017
                • 3658

                #37
                That is helpful information, In this application a double throw relay is needed and I am not aware of any in SSRs in that format. I am familiar with inrush current on the DC battery side switching an Inverter or controller in an EV. I haven't tested it on my hybrid inverter because I always connect the batteries and then use the circuit breaker, I did see an episode of EVTV where they were using a contactor as a low voltage and high voltage cutoff and they did blow the capacitors or Power transistors in a Chinese Inverter.

                This issue in this post is about the DC from the panels and the impact on the charge controller or gridtie inverter. I do not know the impact of switching the solar input to a charge controller or inverter. It is the capacitors that cause the surge currents and there very well may be capacitors on that side of those devices and that is what the OP should be aware of. The result will most likely be a welded contact the consequences of which the OP needs to be aware of if it could result in overcharging his batteries. I can't imagine a scenerio with a grid tie inverter where welded contacts on the solar side would be a problem.
                9 kW solar, 42kWh LFP storage. EV owner since 2012

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                • Tired sparky
                  Member
                  • Jan 2020
                  • 52

                  #38
                  F8463B3C-D090-47D6-962B-005959A2712E.jpeg

                  Comment

                  • littleharbor
                    Solar Fanatic
                    • Jan 2016
                    • 1998

                    #39
                    Arc flash.jpg
                    2.2kw Suntech mono, Classic 200, NEW Trace SW4024

                    Comment

                    • Tired sparky
                      Member
                      • Jan 2020
                      • 52

                      #40
                      Solar comes in through that red switch. The negatives are commoned behind the panel. The positive goes to the tiny relay left of main switch.

                      From there it splits with one leg going to the white/grey MPPT CC and the other going to the Blue GT inverter.

                      The black cable from the bottom of GTI is the 230 volts AC and goes to that small white watt meter then down to the switch fused spur then into the socket and off into the house mains.

                      The grey/white MPPT CC feeds to the battery bank. There is a display screen in the house linked by a 30 metre (100 foot) Ethernet cable.

                      The silver box is a 24-12 volt transformer for my low volt circuits which include that black car cigarette socket. It connects to a blade fuse distribution unit on the right.

                      The round green lit display is a battery monitor.

                      The black thing under main MPPT and next to main switch is another watt meter.

                      The silver MPPT CC and yellow/grey display are a separate 12 volt system that will be removed as it’s redundant now I have the 24 volt system.

                      The grey ‘MPPT’ (PWM) CC at the bottom of the picture is the thing monitoring the battery bank and operating the relay.

                      Thats probably clear as mud but maybe it will help others see what I’m on about here?
                      Last edited by Tired sparky; 03-31-2020, 07:59 AM.

                      Comment

                      • Tired sparky
                        Member
                        • Jan 2020
                        • 52

                        #41
                        Ampster, are you saying there could be connections within the CC and or GTI that might not like being switched back and forth under a possible maximum load and might throw a wobbly?

                        I understand that in normal use solar CC’s gradually ramp up in power as the Sun rises so might not like sudden inrush current when being switched. Inverters should be ok as they operate as either on or off under a load demand?

                        I was actually in the solar shed today (we are under a soft lockdown here) when it switched from battery charge mode to Grid Tie mode with the faint click from the relay! Quite satisfying, I hope it lasts a while!!!

                        Whatever happens its anothet learning curve and I will update good/bad things that occur. Thanks for the good technical input from y’all.
                        Last edited by Tired sparky; 03-31-2020, 08:25 AM.

                        Comment

                        • Ampster
                          Solar Fanatic
                          • Jun 2017
                          • 3658

                          #42
                          Originally posted by Tired sparky
                          Ampster, are you saying there could be connections within the CC and or GTI that might not like being switched back and forth under a possible maximum load and might throw a wobbly?
                          .........
                          I was actually in the solar shed today (we are under a soft lockdown here) when it switched from battery charge mode to Grid Tie mode with the faint click from the relay! Quite satisfying, I hope it lasts a while!!!

                          Whatever happens its anothet learning curve and I will update good/bad things that occur.
                          .....
                          I don't know because I am not as familiar with the inner workings of a charge controller. It would not be an issue with my grid tie inverter because it uses optimizers on the panels which drop the voltage and current when disconnected. I was trying to provide some context around the fears of others around the risks of switching DC. One mentioned surge currents and I was just throwing out some examples of where you most likely might see them.
                          Most relays I have used are enclosed and the voltages and amps you are working with are reasonable. As you mention if you blow through a $15 relay I will be no big deal. The contacts will weld in one position or the other. The likelihood of a short circuit that creates those major spark storms is unlikely assuming you have fuses or circuit breakers in the right places.
                          9 kW solar, 42kWh LFP storage. EV owner since 2012

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                          • Tired sparky
                            Member
                            • Jan 2020
                            • 52

                            #43
                            Thanks, ah yes good idea, it might pay to put a fuse after the main solar panel incoming switch. I was going to get a DC circuit breaker that would both be a switch and a short circuit current breaker but never did, instead using a regular AC 100 Amp domestic distribution board main switch I had to hand.

                            Comment

                            • Ampster
                              Solar Fanatic
                              • Jun 2017
                              • 3658

                              #44
                              Originally posted by Tired sparky
                              Thanks, ah yes good idea, it might pay to put a fuse after the main solar panel incoming switch. I was going to get a DC circuit breaker that would both be a switch and a short circuit current breaker but never did, instead using a regular AC 100 Amp domestic distribution board main switch I had to hand.
                              Those are the kinds of things that worry the risk adverse moderators. It is very important when switching a and protecting DC loads to use devices that are specifically rated for DC. You probably already know this but for the benefit of other readers, switching AC is simple because 50 or 60 times a second the voltage goes to zero. That is never the case with DC and that is why DC switches, relays and circuit breakers have to be designed for the kind of arcs that flow when connecting or disconnecting a large DC load. The large contactors used in EVs are enclosed and include arc suppressing circuitry, inert gasses or both..
                              9 kW solar, 42kWh LFP storage. EV owner since 2012

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                              • Ampster
                                Solar Fanatic
                                • Jun 2017
                                • 3658

                                #45
                                Originally posted by Tired sparky
                                ..........
                                The black cable from the bottom of GTI is the 230 volts AC and goes to that small white watt meter then down to the switch fused spur then into the socket and off into the house mains.
                                ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
                                I don;t know what the regulations are in your country, but in the USA it is required to have a safety interlock between the grid and the GT inverter to protect the linemen working on a downed grid. Generally that is part of the the GT inverter. Does your inverter have that safety interlock?. In other words, does your GT inverter shut down when the grid is down? I am just checking my assumption that the use of the term GT inverter implies that it does.
                                9 kW solar, 42kWh LFP storage. EV owner since 2012

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