A hybrid inverter is one that can work as an off grid inverter or a grid tie inverter. AC coupling is a concept often used by a hybrid inverter to control a grid tie inverter when the grid is down. I presume that is what you mean by putting your solar panels to good use.
My comments are strictly related to your comments about Lithium. You are correct, Lithium batteries do not like to constantly have a charge current connected to them. They do not self discharge like Lead Acid so Float is not needed to keep them healthy. The important thing is to have a charge controller that can control the stages of charging. The charger is built into my Outback Skybox and I can control how it charges. Therefore I have set the float voltage to not come on unless they have discharge to a set point. In that case there is essentially little difference between Float and Absorb. They are both Constant Voltage charging. You just need some way to turn them off either by time or Amps. There are good examples of this in the stickies.
I guess it depends on how you define outperform. I am of the opinion that Lithium batteries outperform Lead Acid batteries if you follow some simple rules. They are more efficient than Lead Acid, maintain their charge at any state of charge. Therefore they do not need constant charging and in the long run one would need less solar panels to charge them. In an off grid situation that affects the economics. In a grid tie that means either less investment or more of your solar panel investment is available to sell back to the grid.
I also agree with Mike that many uninformed DIYers are going ruin their first set of batteries. That actually happened when I built my first ebike using Lead Acid. I left them unattended for a couple of weeks at 75% full and they self discharged and lost capacity. I switched to Lithium and have never looked back. Your mileage may differ.
Also, as a note, current I'm considering a third option. That is preserving the off-grid inverter and install a string inverter and replace the charge controller with a 600v model with a manual 600VDC transfer switch.
I am not sure I fully understand this option. Is it grid tied or off grid?
The most important fact about my questions is that the batteries will be used on a backup system (will be 24/7 floating, unless a disaster strikes). That's the reason I limited my choices to AGM and lithium. For these applications, if the batteries are flooded, the best lead acid 'chemistry' is lead-calcium (telecom batteries). Unfortunately, those batteries, at least where I live, are very expensive. The other lead acid 'chemistry' is lead-antimony (deep cycle golf cart, L16, forklift, etc.). Those are readily available. But perform poorly in float applications (die early, would be best to cycle them to 10-15% daily {not an option}). That's the reason why some pro installers recommend AGMs. Not only because of the maintenance. But because they are usually lead-calcium (like telecom they like to float).
These are my doubts/questions right now. If you recommend a regular deep cycle flooded battery (lead-antimony GC, L16), what maintenance steps should I take to extend their life (prevent stratification, recover capacity lost, not because of sulphation, but because it has been floating for too long). If I should cycle them periodically, how often?
I included lithium because of the recent marketing surge. But honestly, I don't think is the right battery for the application. For off grid, maybe, honestly I don’t know, time will tell. I do not remember the web site, but a couple of months ago I read a master’s or PhD thesis about the loss of life and capacity of lithium batteries in float applications (the batteries lost more than 20% of its capacity in 5 years). Also, several, if not most, lithium battery 'manufacturer' recommends not to float charge them. If that is true, why do people use lithium in residential backup applications? I could understand the needs of an industrial or an energy company. They usually need a lot of energy in a moment notice until the generators are online. They take significatively longer (in case of utilities hours) because they must sync with current production. But that is not the case of a residential application. Time will tell, but in my opinion a lead-calcium lead-acid battery (flooded or sealed) will outperform them (in capacity if flooded/sealed and in calendar life if flooded). For regular off-grid use they are an alternative. Unfortunately, most charge controller are not 100% lithium compatible. Most charge controllers will get damaged if you connect the PV before the batteries. Precisely that is what happens if you discharge them or overcharge them. The BMS will turn them off and bye bye CC.
These are my doubts/questions right now. If you recommend a regular deep cycle flooded battery (lead-antimony GC, L16), what maintenance steps should I take to extend their life (prevent stratification, recover capacity lost, not because of sulphation, but because it has been floating for too long). If I should cycle them periodically, how often?
I included lithium because of the recent marketing surge. But honestly, I don't think is the right battery for the application. For off grid, maybe, honestly I don’t know, time will tell. I do not remember the web site, but a couple of months ago I read a master’s or PhD thesis about the loss of life and capacity of lithium batteries in float applications (the batteries lost more than 20% of its capacity in 5 years). Also, several, if not most, lithium battery 'manufacturer' recommends not to float charge them. If that is true, why do people use lithium in residential backup applications? I could understand the needs of an industrial or an energy company. They usually need a lot of energy in a moment notice until the generators are online. They take significatively longer (in case of utilities hours) because they must sync with current production. But that is not the case of a residential application. Time will tell, but in my opinion a lead-calcium lead-acid battery (flooded or sealed) will outperform them (in capacity if flooded/sealed and in calendar life if flooded). For regular off-grid use they are an alternative. Unfortunately, most charge controller are not 100% lithium compatible. Most charge controllers will get damaged if you connect the PV before the batteries. Precisely that is what happens if you discharge them or overcharge them. The BMS will turn them off and bye bye CC.
I guess it depends on how you define outperform. I am of the opinion that Lithium batteries outperform Lead Acid batteries if you follow some simple rules. They are more efficient than Lead Acid, maintain their charge at any state of charge. Therefore they do not need constant charging and in the long run one would need less solar panels to charge them. In an off grid situation that affects the economics. In a grid tie that means either less investment or more of your solar panel investment is available to sell back to the grid.
I also agree with Mike that many uninformed DIYers are going ruin their first set of batteries. That actually happened when I built my first ebike using Lead Acid. I left them unattended for a couple of weeks at 75% full and they self discharged and lost capacity. I switched to Lithium and have never looked back. Your mileage may differ.
Also, as a note, current I'm considering a third option. That is preserving the off-grid inverter and install a string inverter and replace the charge controller with a 600v model with a manual 600VDC transfer switch.
Comment