diy solar grid tie

[foo1bar]

I created a spreadsheet with various options when I was evaluating which to go with.

I had 285's and 260's and 300's as various options. And projections of how much of the electric bill they would eliminate. And how many months until the "breakeven" point.
For me, the 285's were a good point in the price/capacity curve.
If I had more roof space, 260's would have been just as good, and I probably would have gone that way. (I'm somewhat glad they didn't fit though. Looking back it would have meant even *more* mounting points and racking to get setup. And that took quite a bit of time.)

If you have a south-facing roof or even better, a south-west facing roof, with being in PG&E, you will want to go TOU.
TOU makes the calculation of how much $ are saved for a given array size more difficult. (or what array size gives you $0 bill)
You can download your green-button data from PG&E and do a spreadsheet to calculate - but it will be a bit of a PITA.

While you're doing your planning you need to evaluate how you're going to tie into your current service.
1> do you have a large enough service to do the backfeed?
2> Is your main breaker panel an end-feed panel or center-feed?
3> What is the "120% rule" and does it apply to your situsation?
4> What size breaker do you need for the backfeed?
etc.

Good luck.

[billy1]

Thanks for your info guys. I know my Electric bill is low, I was thinking if I do it myself (wipe out all that soft costs) and make it simple (the micro inverter) with a payback ok 9 years I'd be happy. I can fit 15 panels 60 cell, that's why I was thinking go high watt. I'm going to check if 280 watt panels work out and see if I can figure out diy Solar Edge inverter. Time to check out those 3 other websites.

[foo1bar]

I used renvu for building my system.

I agree with the people questioning LG310's.
Why go with 310s if you can go with 280's or 260's for significantly cheaper?
17 of 275's is nearly same as 15 of 310s.
Yes it'll cost you a little more in time and racking costs.
But I believe it'll be cheaper in total.

[sunnyguy]

Check renvu, sun electronics, jay's energy. If you're trying to save money I would ask do you really need lg and microinverters?

[J.P.M.]

With usage that low, I'm wondering if solar, even at DIY costs makes, any sense from a cost effective standpoint. Adding ~ 2,600 kWh/yr. for an EV and a total resulting load of, say, 7,000 kWh/yr., may still be marginal in the cost effectiveness dept., especially if charging the EV on T.O.U. rates at night.

Sometimes, solar is not the best way to save money or the environment.

As or array size, unless your in a very shady location and/or way off south facing, and assuming you're in the Bay area, as a dart throw, expect about ~ 1,500 kWh/yr. or more output from each kW of D.C. array size. For a better estimate, run PVWatts with about a 10% derate (after reading the help/info screens to learn what it all means) and see what you get for an array size.

FWIW, I'd get the EV first and then size/acquire the system after that and keep the cart before the horse. With usage and bills as small as yours, waiting won't cost much and will allow you time to educate yourself.

Welcome to the neighborhood.

[billy1]

HiI' I'm new here.....So I want to install my own PV array. Can you suggest websites to buy the hardware? I'm in solano county California zip 95688 and I'm willing to pick it up at a store if it will be cheaper (buy in CA=tax though).

I used 3,996 kWh past 12 months with PG&E and I plan on getting a Tesla Model 3 later like in March 2018 (fingers crossed), and drive 9,000 miles a year. I'm guesstamating the car will get 32 KWh per 100 miles driven. Sounds like the car will use 2,550 kWh a year based on my timited googel fu, but when I asked wholesalesolar.com how big a system facturing in the EV he could not give me a answer, and said I won't know until I get the car :/ I'd be nice to just built the max system I need and have a zero electric bill, I emagine I would need to pay for a second permit to add on? My cost to pay for the first permit is only $212 though.

My house is facing south with flat tile roof, normal roof slope I guess, and plan on going through the attic and fishing the romex wire in the garage wall to main breaker box that's facing outside of house.

I can fit 2 rows of 6 panels and the third row of 3 panels, 15 total panels portrait of 60 cell. Or, I guess I could also just do to 2 rows of 6 panels 72 cell (less mounting/rail hardware

So with micro inverter I don't have to use AC disconnect switch right? But central inverter I must have a AC disconnect switch?

Anyone no of price and availability on the LG 320 AC W/ built in S280 micro inverter?

Anyone currently using LG 300 AC W/ built in house micro inverter? Or know of a review online, I'm interested how that's working out.

I think I'm going to use flat tile hook with deck level flashing. My house has battens on roof like little bit less than 3/4" thick, with I have to shave the flat tile? should I use side mount hook?

What rack should I use? I have been looking at snapnrack and Iron Ridge. I got a quote for a whole system solarpanelstore.com (shipping not factored in yet but no tax) but the cost for snapnrack parts seems really high.



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And here's one from wholesalesolar.com which is way more criptic, and I have no idea what's up this the $100 wire diagram revision. I asked them for 3 quotes ;/

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I have been doing a lot of research, I think I just hit the wall. Thanks for your help.