I'd be more concerned about it being the right type for the use (ex. NM, THWN-2, etc.)
And if you're using metal junction box and/or metal conduit, make sure you're grounding them appropriately.
diy solar grid tie
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I submitted my permit and now I am able to begin work.
So for my AC setup with micro inverters, Should I use 10 gauge stranded or solid wire? The wire will go directly from the roof Junction box to main service panel, all one line of wire. Or is it personal preference?Leave a comment:
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Not a bad idea but I didn't, I just ran them finger-tight and finished them off with a socket wrench. Stainless threads have a tendency to gall, but I've only had that happen a few times, typically when using a power driver of some kind, or when using self-locking nuts.Leave a comment:
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Did you bother using anti-seize on the stainless steel bolts for the racking?
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Ya I hear ya, I was just trying to stay busy.Leave a comment:
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You should get the plans approved before buying anything and especially before installing anything, because you might have to change something and it could cost a lot of time and money.Leave a comment:
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So installers would use a J-box on roof and then a another J-box in attic to run romex?Leave a comment:
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But I'm not an electrician by trade.
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IMG_20161006_071304.jpg IMG_20161006_071408.jpg
IMG_20161006_073135.jpg Just went to the hardware store for supplies, I would like an opinion on my wire setup on the roof with evering thing hidden underneath the panels.
I would secure the pvc junction box to the bottom of rail with the box's 1 mounting ear on it's side, connect enphase trunk cable and #6 ground wire to left side of J-box and then connect about 1-2 feet of liquid tight flexible conduit (non metal LFC) to front of J-box, to a PVC line break right to roof penetration hole , right before roof penetration it transitions to EMT only for 1 foot which is just enough EMT to penetrate roof and secure to rafter in attic ceiling, then all romex the rest of way.
I plan on removing the about 3 feet of the romex outer sheathing when running wire in conduit so it's one continuous wire.
now looking at my setup I realized the plastic to metal transitions at the line break makes everything too tall to be underneath panels, I think I'll use all EMT set up so it's lower profile.
If I got a metal J-box as well, what to you think I get a small bracket 1/2' X 2" and glue the bracket to bottom side of metal J-box with liquid nails and screw the other side of the bracket to bottom of rail so it has a mounting ear just like the PVC J-box?Leave a comment:
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Yes I have flat tile and the quickmount penetration flashing is double flashed(2 pieces). Ya the tile soladeck mount is nice but it's $225 at Renvu, that's why I went with quickmount and separate J-box.Leave a comment:
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(Again - I haven't done flat tile so don't know what's "normal")Leave a comment:
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I'm not quite picturing what you're planning - but I haven't done flat tile.
I'm not sure if there's a soladeck for flat tile - if there is, I'd probably use that.
Whatever you do, look at how water is going to flow - figure out what is going to keep water out of your attic.
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What do you guys think of mounting a 4" X 4" X 2" PVC junction box directly on top of Quick Mount, roof mount flat tile penetration flashing, and connect about a 10" length of 3/4" EMT conduit to the back of the box and secure to the rafter in the attic?Leave a comment:
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Yes this is my main panel.
Yes it's a combination meter+main panel
No the picture is not upside down, I misunderstood what top/bottom feed refers to. Ok I understand now my panel is bottom feed (breakers at bottom of panel).
Yes I'm still a noob, but faking it till I make it.
I'm going to use solar permit services site since it's only $295.
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All of the romex wires is coming from the top of the panel through the 3 separate knockout holes. Is that considered a "bottom fed" service panel?
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