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So I'm about halfway through mounting the panels on my 4x4 array, and have a few pointers that I don't think have been mentioned:
1. Yes, getting the bottom row level is key. For a system as small as mine, you don't need a laser. Just having an 8ft straight-edge allows you to get it close enough. I used a piece of track-light rail I had lying around; an 8ft carpenter's level would be great, but I think it'd be likely to get beat up.
2. With the IronRidge UFOs, take a few minutes to "pre tighten" them. IOW, get your cordless drill with a 7/16" or 11mm socket, your bench vise, and one of the proper size "stopper sleeves" (the little half-cylinders than turn a UFO into an end clamp). Stick each UFO in the vise with the stopper sleeve on it, and screw it down within 1/4" or so of what the final position will be when installed (you'll get the hang of it pretty quickly). It'll save you a little effort on each UFO you install, effort you'd otherwise have to expend when it's most inconvenient.
3. Be aware that with any of these IronRidge widgets where a little trapezoidal thing at the end of a bolt fits into one of the two slots on a rail - the UFO, the thing that connects a rail to an L-foot, and the grounding lug - if you tighten it most of the way, then loosen it a little, and then re-tighten it, it may not pivot around to where the trapezoid bites into the slot again. So it'll keep screwing down and screwing down until you realize something is wrong and it's not grabbing, and you need to unscrew it pretty far and start over. Also, if using a ratchet wrench, hold the socket so it doesn't rotate in the unscrew direction when you're making the backstroke, or the same thing might happen. (I guess @bob-n talked about this some).
4. Torque wrench is important, at least for the UFOs (for the others you can kinda wing it if you have good "mechanics feel"). Don't cheap out; spring $100 for a SnapOn or ProTools, or have a mechanic friend you can borrow one from. I bought a $40 piece of crap from Amazon and returned it. It's not worth risking breaking the glass on your panels.
1. Yes, getting the bottom row level is key. For a system as small as mine, you don't need a laser. Just having an 8ft straight-edge allows you to get it close enough. I used a piece of track-light rail I had lying around; an 8ft carpenter's level would be great, but I think it'd be likely to get beat up.
2. With the IronRidge UFOs, take a few minutes to "pre tighten" them. IOW, get your cordless drill with a 7/16" or 11mm socket, your bench vise, and one of the proper size "stopper sleeves" (the little half-cylinders than turn a UFO into an end clamp). Stick each UFO in the vise with the stopper sleeve on it, and screw it down within 1/4" or so of what the final position will be when installed (you'll get the hang of it pretty quickly). It'll save you a little effort on each UFO you install, effort you'd otherwise have to expend when it's most inconvenient.
3. Be aware that with any of these IronRidge widgets where a little trapezoidal thing at the end of a bolt fits into one of the two slots on a rail - the UFO, the thing that connects a rail to an L-foot, and the grounding lug - if you tighten it most of the way, then loosen it a little, and then re-tighten it, it may not pivot around to where the trapezoid bites into the slot again. So it'll keep screwing down and screwing down until you realize something is wrong and it's not grabbing, and you need to unscrew it pretty far and start over. Also, if using a ratchet wrench, hold the socket so it doesn't rotate in the unscrew direction when you're making the backstroke, or the same thing might happen. (I guess @bob-n talked about this some).
4. Torque wrench is important, at least for the UFOs (for the others you can kinda wing it if you have good "mechanics feel"). Don't cheap out; spring $100 for a SnapOn or ProTools, or have a mechanic friend you can borrow one from. I bought a $40 piece of crap from Amazon and returned it. It's not worth risking breaking the glass on your panels.
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