So I have a question about doing a supply side tap at a detached building. I have 400A service at the main dwelling. The 400A meter base is connected to a 400A safety disconnect. The load side of the disconnect feeds both the main dwelling as well as my shop located 200ft away.
Here's what the setup at the main dwelling looks like:

The tall box on the left is a 400A automatic transfer switch that feeds a pair of 200A sub panels inside the main dwelling. This is for diesel backup generator.
Anyway, here's what the inside of the transfer switch in the middle looks like:

As you can see, the shop feed exits at the bottom and shares a 300A fused feed with the house. Inspector made me change from 400A fuses to 300A fuses since I'm "only" using 300 MCM Cu wiring between the meter base, disconnect and transfer switch. The 300 MCM feeding the shop is spliced to 500 MCM Al as soon as it exits the cabinet.
At the shop 200 ft away, that 500 MCM comes up into a 400A meter base as seen here:

The inspector made me separate Neutral and Ground since I have a 4 wire feed from the main dwelling. The meter base does not readily accommodate this, so I have to pull the neutral and splice it to 3/0 Cu that is being feed to the 200A subpanel in the shop. In the above pic, you can see how I propose doing a side tab for the PV subpanel.
Here's a look at the sub panel inside the shop:

As you can see, my thought is that I'll pick up Neutral for the PV subpanel from the Neutral bar here.
So will that fly, or should I pick up the Neutral for my side tab from the splice in the meter base instead? Inspector doesn't want me to land 2 Neutrals under the same screw, so I would like have to get a different splice than what I have right now.
Final question is how to ground the PV subpanel. Can I just ground it using a split bolt at the shop ground rod?
The whole reason for having to do this PV subpanel at the shop is the 120% rule. I'm doing a 20kw system which will have 6 x 20A breakers as seen in the above pick, so that's 120A worth of PV breakers, way exceeding the 120% rule.
The only way around needing a dedicated PV subpanel at the shop would be if I was able to convince the inspector that the panel there has a 225A bus bar, which this label would seem to indicate: (upper left corner)

And I would have to swap out the 200A main breaker for a 150A one. Doing so would get me 225 * 1.2 = 270A. 270A -150A = 120A
But, alas, my shop loads add up to more than 150A going by breaker ratings alone. I suppose if I look at the motor labels on the compressor and lift, they are likely less and I can probably also remove recepts that I never use, to get down below 150A.
And then there is this 2nd label inside the panel that states 200A max:

So getting a 150A breaker would be a gamble I would think.
Which direction would you go?
Thanks!
Here's what the setup at the main dwelling looks like:
The tall box on the left is a 400A automatic transfer switch that feeds a pair of 200A sub panels inside the main dwelling. This is for diesel backup generator.
Anyway, here's what the inside of the transfer switch in the middle looks like:
As you can see, the shop feed exits at the bottom and shares a 300A fused feed with the house. Inspector made me change from 400A fuses to 300A fuses since I'm "only" using 300 MCM Cu wiring between the meter base, disconnect and transfer switch. The 300 MCM feeding the shop is spliced to 500 MCM Al as soon as it exits the cabinet.
At the shop 200 ft away, that 500 MCM comes up into a 400A meter base as seen here:
The inspector made me separate Neutral and Ground since I have a 4 wire feed from the main dwelling. The meter base does not readily accommodate this, so I have to pull the neutral and splice it to 3/0 Cu that is being feed to the 200A subpanel in the shop. In the above pic, you can see how I propose doing a side tab for the PV subpanel.
Here's a look at the sub panel inside the shop:
As you can see, my thought is that I'll pick up Neutral for the PV subpanel from the Neutral bar here.
So will that fly, or should I pick up the Neutral for my side tab from the splice in the meter base instead? Inspector doesn't want me to land 2 Neutrals under the same screw, so I would like have to get a different splice than what I have right now.
Final question is how to ground the PV subpanel. Can I just ground it using a split bolt at the shop ground rod?
The whole reason for having to do this PV subpanel at the shop is the 120% rule. I'm doing a 20kw system which will have 6 x 20A breakers as seen in the above pick, so that's 120A worth of PV breakers, way exceeding the 120% rule.
The only way around needing a dedicated PV subpanel at the shop would be if I was able to convince the inspector that the panel there has a 225A bus bar, which this label would seem to indicate: (upper left corner)
And I would have to swap out the 200A main breaker for a 150A one. Doing so would get me 225 * 1.2 = 270A. 270A -150A = 120A
But, alas, my shop loads add up to more than 150A going by breaker ratings alone. I suppose if I look at the motor labels on the compressor and lift, they are likely less and I can probably also remove recepts that I never use, to get down below 150A.
And then there is this 2nd label inside the panel that states 200A max:
So getting a 150A breaker would be a gamble I would think.
Which direction would you go?
Thanks!
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