DIY system in CA; 8.68kw system

[sensij]

Have you read this thread yet (all 50+ pages?). Lots of discussion of mounting systems for tile, as well as what to expect from a design/permit shop.

[foo1bar]

Hi,
I am thinking of installing solar myself. The size will be 4.86KwDC (18x270w panels) & enphase micro m-215. I will be installing on a concrete tile roof. I plan to get the panels & components myself.

I'm afraid I don't know much about concrete tile roof mounts.

I did the design/permit myself, and will be doing all the electrical work myself.

I'd suggest a separate thread - and searching for 'concrete tile hook' (ex. 'site:solarpaneltalk.com concrete tile hook')

[venvis2001]

Doing all the reading now..

Hi Sensij:
Thanks for pointing me to the thread about 'HX_Guy' posts. Very informative! I am reading thru' them this weekend.

foo1bar: can you please PM me the supplier you bought your systems from? I am inclining towards LG or Suniva since my plan is to keep # of rows to 3 (other roof areas will be harder to work, but I can add 4th or 5th row if I really need) & would prefer higher efficiency & higher watt panels (270 to 300).

thx,

[carultch]

You need to match the connectors that are on the panels. From the datasheet, it looks like it uses MC4.

H4 and MC4 are inter-compatible. As long as you keep stock of both the red Multicontact tool and the blue Amphenol tool.

I think you need to use the tool that corresponds to the metal male connector with the female plastic shell. On the other side of the string, you'll use the other tool.

I've asked SolarEdge if they can make optimizers that have MC4 in and MC4 out, since my field-installed connectors are primarily MC4's, and they don't do that. They can match the input connector to either MC4, Tyco, or H4, but they've standardized on H4 for the outputs.

[sensij]

H4 and MC4 are inter-compatible. As long as you keep stock of both the red Multicontact tool and the blue Amphenol tool.

I think you need to use the tool that corresponds to the metal male connector with the female plastic shell. On the other side of the string, you'll use the other tool.

I've asked SolarEdge if they can make optimizers that have MC4 in and MC4 out, since my field-installed connectors are primarily MC4's, and they don't do that. They can match the input connector to either MC4, Tyco, or H4, but they've standardized on H4 for the outputs.

Strictly speaking, MC4 and H4 physically mate, but are not a UL approved connection unless something has changed in the last year or two. More on cross-connecting here. UL approved adapter cables exist, for those who are particular about this kind of thing. I think that in a SolarEdge install, the only MC4 connectors needed are already pre-wired (panel output and optimizer input), so the MC4 crimping tool might not be needed at all. H4 could be used for connections from the optimizer output to the inverter, as needed.

[foo1bar]

Hi Sensij:
Thanks for pointing me to the thread about 'HX_Guy' posts. Very informative! I am reading thru' them this weekend.

foo1bar: can you please PM me the supplier you bought your systems from? I am inclining towards LG or Suniva since my plan is to keep # of rows to 3 (other roof areas will be harder to work, but I can add 4th or 5th row if I really need) & would prefer higher efficiency & higher watt panels (270 to 300).

thx,

I went with 280s - they were right around $1/watt. Going to 300's would have been a pretty fair amount extra for those extra 20W/panel. (enough that it didn't make economic sense to me to do it)
If I had the roof area, I might have gone with 250's since they seem to be a good amount cheaper.

[venvis2001]

Where did you buy your solar panels and components from?

I went with 280s - they were right around $1/watt. Going to 300's would have been a pretty fair amount extra for those extra 20W/panel. (enough that it didn't make economic sense to me to do it)
If I had the roof area, I might have gone with 250's since they seem to be a good amount cheaper.

Thanks. Can you please send me a PM with your supplier's name? thx.

[foo1bar]

Thanks. Can you please send me a PM with your supplier's name? thx.

Already sent you it. But you may need to have 10 posts in order to receive it. (I recall seeing something about 10 posts for PMs)

Panels and racking are from renvu.

And I just spent $200 today at Home Depot on conduit, fittings, etc.

[venvis2001]

Thanks foo1bar.

Already sent you it. But you may need to have 10 posts in order to receive it. (I recall seeing something about 10 posts for PMs)

Panels and racking are from renvu.

And I just spent $200 today at Home Depot on conduit, fittings, etc.

Thanks foo1bar. I am going to first get my designs of my systems done (layout, # of panels, where/how I run my wires, etc). After seeing your reply, I am rethinking of using 250W panels & I found some much cheaper than LG or Suniva (e.g. Solarfennel) & go with 20 panels. Since solar panels are 'commodities' now, does it matter what brand I choose? Solarfennel is South Korean make. Renesolar also is much cheaper. If I go with 20 panels, I have to put another row of 2 panels (extra work+ rails, mounts, etc.) but it is worth reducing my overall price by $1000.

[J.P.M.]

Thanks foo1bar. I am going to first get my designs of my systems done (layout, # of panels, where/how I run my wires, etc). After seeing your reply, I am rethinking of using 250W panels & I found some much cheaper than LG or Suniva (e.g. Solarfennel) & go with 20 panels. Since solar panels are 'commodities' now, does it matter what brand I choose? Solarfennel is South Korean make. Renesolar also is much cheaper. If I go with 20 panels, I have to put another row of 2 panels (extra work+ rails, mounts, etc.) but it is worth reducing my overall price by $1000.

FWIW, I'd get the design approved by the local permitting auth., and before that make sure everything is avail. before I bought anything.

Panels are probably becoming more of a commodity these days. Still, it's possible to be penny wise and pound foolish.

In the bigger scheme of things - labor, project mgmt., freight, possible future PITA's, etc: Saving a buck/Watt is one thing. Saving $.20/Watt on a commodity panel that may have a higher probability of being an orphan in a few years rather than some other very similar product from an established mfg. may be false economy - short and long term. Terrible to pay too much, worse to pay too little.

Take what you want/need of the above. Scrap the rest.

[bcroe]

Thanks foo1bar. I am going to first get my designs of my systems done (layout, # of panels, where/how I run my wires, etc). After seeing your reply, I am rethinking of using 250W panels & I found some much cheaper than LG or Suniva (e.g. Solarfennel) & go with 20 panels. Since solar panels are 'commodities' now, does it matter what brand I choose? Solarfennel is South Korean make. Renesolar also is much cheaper. If I go with 20 panels, I have to put another row of 2 panels (extra work+ rails, mounts, etc.) but it is worth reducing my overall price by $1000.

I think the 250W 60 cell panels would be a good choice, probably the most watts per $,
easy size to handle, probably the standard now. That size might creep up in efficiency
to 260, 270 etc in the future, but one of those could always replace your 250W in case
of damage.

Most of mine are that size. I have some older 72 cell panels as well; they are at
somewhat of a disadvantage. Bruce Roe

[venvis2001]

Design s/w for PV system design, drawings for permit

Hi all,
Can you recommend a PV system design software that I can get/use to design my system & take the drawings/print outs for submitting to the city for permit?

Foo1bar: did you use any software or just googlesketch? I am checking online for s/w like .solardesigntool.com, etc.

If I can do it myself, I have the flexibility to change modules, locations, inverter types, etc. until I decide. If I use some service outside, then I have to decide on my panels, location, etc. before I can ask them to design & give me the package. Suggestions on software appreciated.

Thanks,

[foo1bar]

Foo1bar: did you use any software or just googlesketch? I am checking online for s/w like .solardesigntool.com, etc.

I used:

Google sketch
Microsoft Powerpoint
Visio
Autocad (well - I tried some, but couldn't get things to come out the way I wanted, so did that in sketch instead)

I also used an android-based solar shading analysis app. I wasn't thrilled with it, but I suspect 50% of my problem was my phone is too jittery with it's compass readings. (the other 50% is that it doesn't have an easy "let me try getting that horizon again")

[venvis2001]

Help in deciding between String vs. Micro

I am trying to decide between choosing Micro vs. String. My system size will be approx 5K (if I decide to go with 260w/270w panels, it will be 5.2Kw/5.4Kw for 20 panels). I live up in a small hill & hence no shading issues due to trees, etc. I will have the panels in 3 roof areas (2 facing south west & one facing East/SE). 1) 8 panels facing South 200 deg 2) 10 panels facing East/South East 110 deg & 3) 2 facing South West 200 deg. The areas 2 & 3 will have shade in the evenings due to roofs. Originally I was thinking of using Micro inverters since the different circuits will be producing at different levels during the day. Then I read about optimizers, dual MPPT in SMA inverter, etc. So, I am finding it hard to decide between micro & string: Will SMA SB5000TL-US22 (or similar) vs. SolarEdge & P300 optimizers vs. enphase 215IG micro. Any suggestions will be great. What should I factor in to make the decision (cost difference will be only a few hundred $$).

Thanks,

[JFinch57]

I got 260W mono USA made Isophoton panels for $210 each delivered. See my post about purchasing ala carte...good deal on panels.