Can I run a thermoelectric fridge directly from solar panels?

[Phill]

I have a 12-volt, 5 amp Igloo Kool mate 56-quart thermoelectric cooler and a newly purchased a 120-watt, 18-volt, 6.67-amp portable monocrystalline silicon solar panel. I would like to connect the solar panel directly to the cooler, without a battery, to operate the cooler during the day when I'm camping. I've connected the cooler to the solar panel and it worked. However, I only left it connected for about a minute because I didn't want to burn out the cooler due to the voltage differences. Will I need voltage regulator / controller even if I'm not using a battery?

Thanks,
Phill

[inetdog]

I have a 12-volt, 5 amp Igloo Kool mate 56-quart thermoelectric cooler and a newly purchased a 120-watt, 18-volt, 6.67-amp portable monocrystalline silicon solar panel. I would like to connect the solar panel directly to the cooler, without a battery, to operate the cooler during the day when I'm camping. I've connected the cooler to the solar panel and it worked. However, I only left it connected for about a minute because I didn't want to burn out the cooler due to the voltage differences. Will I need voltage regulator / controller even if I'm not using a battery?

Thanks,
Phill

Look at the input voltage range allowed by the cooler. Some explicitly allow up to 20 volts or more.
Then look at the volage from the fully lit panel while the cooler is running. Most do not have thermostats, so it would be a constant load.
Finally, if you still have a problem, look at a DC-to-DC convertor or voltage regulator to protect the cooler.

[Mike90250]

My gut feeling, is that with 12V nominal panels, you will be OK. But you will likely have to have 150% of panels to get 100% of the power the fridge wants. A 10A cooler will want 15A of solar panels, more if they are not aimed right 100% of the time.

The thermoelectric junctions are pretty robust, and as long as you stay below their solder melting point, you should be OK.

[Phill]

Look at the input voltage range allowed by the cooler. Some explicitly allow up to 20 volts or more.
Then look at the volage from the fully lit panel while the cooler is running. Most do not have thermostats, so it would be a constant load.
Finally, if you still have a problem, look at a DC-to-DC convertor or voltage regulator to protect the cooler.

Thanks! Where do I find the input voltage range?

[Phill]

My gut feeling, is that with 12V nominal panels, you will be OK. But you will likely have to have 150% of panels to get 100% of the power the fridge wants. A 10A cooler will want 15A of solar panels, more if they are not aimed right 100% of the time.

The thermoelectric junctions are pretty robust, and as long as you stay below their solder melting point, you should be OK.

Thanks Mike!

[natel]

any success?

I am thinking about doing the same thing. Can you please post if your experiment worked out? Any advice for me?