Energy Efficient Cooking

[russ]

Any solar PV electric system needs to be based on minimizing consumption - those extra watts are expensive ones!

EPRI (electric power research institute) made a small comparison between a microwave, toaster oven and conventional oven for a few few types centered around the holidays.

The microwave appears to be the lowest consumer in all groups.

Please see http://my.epri.com/portal/server.pt/...da_752030.html

Russ

[Mike90250]

I've not got a microwave yet, but am using an "Induction hotplate" and a electric kettle.

Induction plates are even more efficient than microwaves, and electric kettle even more efficient.

Induction needs special pans with IRON in them to become magnetic. The field heats the iron and the iron heats the pan with your food.

Link to photo album with cookware shots:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2046878&id=1196643274&l=5f0faaf572

[Sunking]

Induction is the most efficient of the electric stove top types but as point out you must use ferrous metal (magnetic) cookware as aluminum, copper, and glass will not work.

[ionized]

Cookware for induction hobs is not really so special. 18/10 stainless works and so does enameled iron. It is a great way to cook.

Goog site:

https://www.theinductionsite.com

[Aero]

When we remodeled our kitchen in 2008 we opted for a Viking induction cooktop to replace our old electric radiant cooktop. We don't have natural gas to our house. Induction is way better than radiant as it has the control of gas and heats up a pan super quick. I can boil water in less than a minute and was able to use our All-clad and Le Cruset cookware. Had to donate some old Revereware that didn't work with induction. If a magnet clings to the pan it generally can be used with induction.

[russ]

Cookware for induction hobs is not really so special. 18/10 stainless works and so does enameled iron. It is a great way to cook.

Goog site:

www.theinductionsite.com

Looked at that site - hope they know more about cooking than they do about steel! Not much they said about stainless (SS) steel is correct.

Stainless steel is a rather large family of alloy steel with many different formulations.

Nickel is not added to make it shiny contrary to what the clown that wrote the article seems to think. SS was developed for industrial use and adopted by cooks as having suitable characteristics.

The common 18/8, also known as SS 321, is an austenitic stainless steel which means it contains substantial nickel and happens to be non magnetic. In 18/8 the 18 indicates percent chromium while the 8 indicates percent nickel. There are many other alloying elements used as well.

Ferritc stainless is magnetic and I expect this is the series used. Most better quality pans are composed of layers of different materials it seems.

Russ

[ionized]

Maybe their metallurgy is not the best, but let's focus on the positive: They explain induction cooking pretty well for non-physist as well as compare it to gas and resistance-electric cooking. They cover the useful features of induction applianced pretty darned well including the useful heating capacity compared to the most powerful gas ranges. They had a comprehensive survey of available appliances, at least when I studied it last. Now, more ranges are available so they might not be keeping up.

That Max Burton that you have is a great hob as shown by their survey. It has great power for the price.

[Mike90250]

Maybe their metallurgy is not the best, but let's focus on the positive: They explain induction cooking pretty well for non-physist as well as compare it to gas and resistance-electric cooking. They cover the useful features of induction applianced pretty darned well including the useful heating capacity compared to the most powerful gas ranges. They had a comprehensive survey of available appliances, at least when I studied it last. Now, more ranges are available so they might not be keeping up.

That Max Burton that you have is a great hob as shown by their survey. It has great power for the price.

Thanks for the info on the induction site - I had done my research via reviews on Amazon, and determined, that if the device arrived intact, without broken glass, it was going to be a good unit. Now I'm looking for some sort of thin silicone mat or shield to put over the glass, so that any stray grit on a pan, or clunking an iron skillet onto it, won't destroy the glass top, and all the EM magic that makes it work.

[Sunking]

Cookware for induction hobs is not really so special. 18/10 stainless works and so does enameled iron. It is a great way to cook.

Goog site:

www.theinductionsite.com

Well I read over some of the sites subject matter and find some of the info quite dangerous and in accurate, especially Electric 101 is quite flawed and would lead a homeowner into thinking they can determine what circuit size the cooktops need.

[russ]

The problem with the site seems to be that they don't stop when their knowledge ends but keep on typing.

As I have zero idea about cooking I would have no idea if what they say is wrong so I have to accept it. There is a lot of information available there - no question.

Once I see something wrong on an 'expert' site like theirs it makes me suspect all.

Russ

[ionized]

What are the problems with the electricity section? The statement that aluminum cable is bad is a little over-reaching since large gauge cable for dedicated circuits and sub panels is fine. Be a hero and send the site admin some constructive criticism.

The article is more complicated than it needs to be, and not well-organized. The sections about boost and power-sharing are useful and informative and explain why you can get more or less power that rated under certain conditions. That will help you be a more cagy shopper when in the market for a cook-top. They should, however, be separated from the electrical hook-up information. The electrical should just say to use the manufacturer's recommendation unless the unit is a long way from the service panel or the power company chronically cheats on voltage. Then the advice should be to increase the ampacity of the cable.

[russ]

What I am bitching about is that they included things like information on stainless steel that is not correct.

The electrical side is definitely overly complicated for 95% of the population - they seem to think everyone should take all that 'stuff' into consideration when buying a new stove. If that is correct then the wiring system was undersize to begin with.

Like I noted, as I have no idea about cooking (in my opinion - if it was meant to be eaten it either is good raw or comes in a can) so am not about to comment on that side.

Russ

[Sunking]

What are the problems with the electricity section?

Just about everything. For example they state the manufactures do not specify the circuit requirements. Pure BS for any product sold in the USA as it has to be UL listed which has the requirements for the electrician to calculate demand requirements. Feeder or branch circuit minimum sizing requirements are governed by the NEC code and local authority having jurisdiction. It cannot be determined by Joe Home Owner.

[ionized]

Like I noted, as I have no idea about cooking (in my opinion - if it was meant to be eaten it either is good raw or comes in a can) so am not about to comment on that side.

Russ

That's funny

I cook a lot. Sometimes when I am talking with a particular colleague of mine about food, he stops me to say something like, you have to remember that I am on the eating team, not the cooking team.

[john p]

BLA BLA BLA Real men cook bring out the oxy cutting torch and cook with that.