Honda EU2000 Transformer Problem

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  • ChrisOlson
    replied
    Yeah, the only thing is that he wanted to be able to use the transformer to leg balance his Perkins diesel generator too. Without the transformer he has to set a conservative gen support level on the Perkins or it will trip the breaker on it and he can't use it for battery charging.

    So the transformer is doing two things - leg balancing one generator and producing L2 for the other one - and I don't know if you could do that with a regular transformer.

    I know the core saturation on the autotransformer is really big. Our power room is on the other side of the north kitchen wall and our autotransformer is hanging on that wall. When our big Honda generator auto-starts we know when it starts because that transformer makes a horrible "thud" that rattles the cups in the cupboard

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  • Sunking
    replied
    Originally posted by ChrisOlson
    Not sure if the PSX-240 transformer has separate primary and secondary or it is one big winding with a center tap. It has four leads coming out of the transformer winding so I think it has separate primary and secondary windings in it.
    Don't get your shorts in a knot Chris, I was not trying to offend you.

    That is what Bruce and I were trying to tell you that an Auto Transformer is not a good choice for the application. It will work but with sacrifices like very high core saturation currents that make CB's go pop like is happening to you. An auto transformer is just as you describe a single winding. A transformer has an isolated primary and at least one secondary winding. Had you used that this would not be an issue is all we are saying. Not only would it have worked, it would have been less expensive. You can get a 2 Kva transformer for peanuts, about 200 peanuts.

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  • ChrisOlson
    replied
    Originally posted by Sunking
    Well I drive electric trains, so that makes me an electric enjunire.
    Well, I for sure ain't no electric injuneer. But I took my fancy box over to the neighbor's after lunch and wired it all up and it works. We set the inverter on 6 amps Gen Support level and tried it with a 3,500 watt load on the inverter and it worked good - the SCP showed the generator putting out 1.404 kVA. And the power must be pretty clean because the XW sync'd with it and qualified it within 30 seconds.

    Not sure if the PSX-240 transformer has separate primary and secondary or it is one big winding with a center tap. It has four leads coming out of the transformer winding so I think it has separate primary and secondary windings in it.

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  • Sunking
    replied
    Originally posted by ChrisOlson
    When I tried to measure mine the one time the ohm meter just shows zero. It can't measure the resistance of the winding. I figured maybe a DLRO could though. I ain't no electificution engineer but I think you need a meter than can measure capacitance in order to calculate the AC impedance for various frequencies.

    Unfortunately, the transformer is way too big for the little generator. The transformer can handle a 6.0 kVA imbalance. It's got a huge core and the thing weighs like 60 lbs. I'm not sure what size the windings are but they're at least 10 AWG windings in it. They bought that transformer because it's the same thing we got and it works good and never even gets warm to the touch. It's a pretty commonly available transformer that's known to be tougher than nails and you can't wreck it.
    Well I drive electric trains, so that makes me an electric enjunire.

    Seriously though you do not have the test equipment to determine the impedance. In all seriousness impedance does not matter. The actual impedance is determined by the turns ratio of the transformer and the load impedance. Perhaps you recal the ole days of Audio when tubes were used. Most of the gear had connections for 2, 4, 8, 16, and 32 ohm speakers. All it was is a transformer with multiple taps on the secondary to match speaker impedance to the tube amp impedance which was relatively high. For example if the tube amp impedances was 512 ohms, the transformer turn ratio was 1 to 256, 128, 64, 32, and 16 respectively. The core permeability has to be reactive for the frequency of interest to work.

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  • Sunking
    replied
    Originally posted by ChrisOlson
    Once the core is magnetized, and with no load on the transformer secondary, the impedance of the transformer is very, very low. I tried to measure the resistance of a winding once when I had a problem with the breaker on mine and you can't measure it without a DLRO.
    You cannot measure impedance with a DRLO or any ohm meter. All a DRLO can do is verify no windings have shorted out assuming you knew what a good reading was before hand.

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  • ChrisOlson
    replied
    Originally posted by bcroe
    The resistance is supposed to be as low as practical, for efficiency. The AC impedance at 60 HZ
    can't be measured by a simple (DC) ohm meter. it appears your auto transformer is much larger
    than the small generator requires, helping to create the problem. Bruce Roe
    When I tried to measure mine the one time the ohm meter just shows zero. It can't measure the resistance of the winding. I figured maybe a DLRO could though. I ain't no electificution engineer but I think you need a meter than can measure capacitance in order to calculate the AC impedance for various frequencies.

    Unfortunately, the transformer is way too big for the little generator. The transformer can handle a 6.0 kVA imbalance. It's got a huge core and the thing weighs like 60 lbs. I'm not sure what size the windings are but they're at least 10 AWG windings in it. They bought that transformer because it's the same thing we got and it works good and never even gets warm to the touch. It's a pretty commonly available transformer that's known to be tougher than nails and you can't wreck it.

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  • bcroe
    replied
    Originally posted by ChrisOlson
    Once the core is magnetized, and with no load on the transformer secondary, the impedance of the transformer is very, very low. I tried to measure the resistance of a winding once when I had a problem with the breaker on mine and you can't measure it without a DLRO.
    The resistance is supposed to be as low as practical, for efficiency. The AC impedance at 60 HZ
    can't be measured by a simple (DC) ohm meter. it appears your auto transformer is much larger
    than the small generator requires, helping to create the problem. Bruce Roe

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  • ChrisOlson
    replied
    Originally posted by inetdog
    The heater load will only be 2,000 watts if you put it in parallel with the transformer OR the impedance of the transformer core is so low that it looks like a short circuit in series with the heater.
    Once the core is magnetized, and with no load on the transformer secondary, the impedance of the transformer is very, very low. I tried to measure the resistance of a winding once when I had a problem with the breaker on mine and you can't measure it without a DLRO.

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  • inetdog
    replied
    Originally posted by ChrisOlson
    Just got back from the neighbor's place. One water heater element worked. But it make the generator grunt and the overload light flashed on for a brief instant before I flipped the switch. The transformer load is only about 10 watts once the core gets magnetized but the heater load is 2,000 watts which is all the little generator can put out on surge initially.
    The heater load will only be 2,000 watts if you put it in parallel with the transformer OR the impedance of the transformer core is so low that it looks like a short circuit in series with the heater.
    Only if the inverter has an enormous VA capacity compared to its wattage capacity would that even potentially give a higher load on the generator with the switch open than with the switch closed. Something still does not seem right.

    If you are saying that the inrush to the transformer still is on the brink of overloading the inverter, put two of the heater elements in series instead of one.

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  • ChrisOlson
    replied
    Firstly, yes the transformer is an autotransformer - it is an Outback PSX-240. The reason that the autotransformer is the best choice here is because we have it wired up like our system is here - it is used for leg balancing his 4.0 kVA Perkins diesel generator as well as producing the 180 degree out of phase sine wave for the single phase generator. So it is dual-purpose.

    The biggest light bulbs we got around here are a couple 75 watt heat lamps. I tried one of those and it didn't work. Otherwise the next biggest bulbs we got are maybe some 25W CFL's. Out here in the sticks we just have no use for big wattage lights so I'd have to run to town to find something like that.

    I just happened to have the water heater elements in my shop because I keep a few spares on hand. I use them for resistors in my wind turbine voltage clippers as well as electric water heating. They're only $8.99 each and they're actually pretty tough. I got an array of three of them wired delta in a wind turbine voltage clipper box here that has been in service for over two years. That box is on an outside panel on a steel post because it's a fire hazard. I got those three water heater elements on aluminum heat sinks in the box and sometimes when the wind blows hard and the turbine tries to over-volt the Classic so the clipper comes on constant to "clip" the voltage below 150V, that box gets so hot you can't touch it, and if you spray water on the box you get instant steam. That's hot and ever burned one out yet.

    This soft start box I built today doesn't get anywhere close to that hot because it's only for a brief second or so it's needed to "soften" the blow from the transformer. So I think it'll work fine. I'm just building a little safety into it in the event somebody starts the generator and forgets to throw the switch - and the heater element should be able to burn up or handle it long enough to overload fault the generator without causing a fire. The element is no big deal - if it fails it's only $8.99 to replace it.

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  • Sunking
    replied
    Originally posted by bcroe
    Water heater elements are the resistors of choice here for very short term high power. The
    problem with light bulbs, the resistance starts very low, and then increases, just the opposite
    of what you need. A 144 ohm 100W bulb starts at 10 ohms cold.
    Precisely. It has to be a negative coefficient to work correctly.

    Hey Chris just for giggles can you try a variety of bulbs of different wattage's? Say start with 10 watts and work your way up. Mike has a point a light might work. It could be you just were not in the right range.

    I also agree with Bruce this should have been a non issue if a straight dry type single phase transformer were used. Auto Transformer is really the wrong hardware to use. Not only that but a lot less expensive using a 2 Kva Single phase Transformer in reverse, making it a step up transformer.

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  • bcroe
    replied
    Originally posted by Mike90250
    don't get too fancy, the heater elements are going to fail from the thermal
    shock pretty quickly. I think the big light bulb as ballast, will be the better load.
    Water heater elements are the resistors of choice here for very short term high power. The
    problem with light bulbs, the resistance starts very low, and then increases, just the opposite
    of what you need. A 144 ohm 100W bulb starts at 10 ohms cold.

    I wonder if you are using an auto transformer? This would have half the iron, etc of a
    straight 2:1 transformer of same rating. Also wondering, if a tape wound core would
    perform any better; certainly has less losses? Use a 240 V Vari*c with center tap.

    Bruce Roe

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  • Mike90250
    replied
    don't get too fancy, the heater elements are going to fail from the thermal shock pretty quickly. I think the big light bulb as ballast, will be the better load.

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  • ChrisOlson
    replied
    Originally posted by Sunking
    Sounds like a good place for a fire.
    Well, that's why I want to keep dust and bugs out of the box. If he forgets to throw the switch sometime and gets the element really hot at least it's contained inside the stainless steel box.

    He's got a Perkins diesel generator in there sitting on a pallet with a piece of flex pipe going thru the wall for the exhaust. And now he's got a Honda EU2000 sitting on an old steel work table. And, of course, the rest of the shed is full of "stuff" too. Old boards that he cuts up for kindling for the fireplace. Couple old tractors. 1947 Chev truck cab sitting on a couple pallets. Several old rusted V-8 engines from the 60's and 70's sitting on their side on the dirt floor leaking oil out.

    Yep. She's quite a place

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  • Sunking
    replied
    Originally posted by ChrisOlson
    Yeah, it's "fixed". I formed up a nice stainless steel box and made an aluminum heat sink for the element to mount on in it. I have to TIG the corners on the box and make a cover for it yet. I don't think there's much danger of him overheating the element if he forgets to throw the switch because the generator will only put out enough power to run that element in the circuit for maybe 10-15 seconds before it overload faults. So I'm not going to drill any ventilation holes in the box. He doesn't have a nice generator house like we got. His generators are in an old pole shed with dust and dirt and cobwebs and bugs and birds and stuff. Be good to keep dust and bugs out of the box.
    Sounds like a good place for a fire.

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