Off-Grid Cabin - Seeking Design Help

[cookstove]

I have been a solar lurker for several years.

In recent weeks, I have made a couple of false starts toward purchasing a small off-grid system for use at our remote mountain cabin in N. Wyoming. Part of my problem is that we will need to remove the system each year (in Oct) and then reinstall it in the spring (typically May).

My current 'system' consists of the following recently acquired core items:
-Two Grape Solar 100W Solar Panels (GS-S-100-Fab 36);
-Xantrex Prowatt Sw2000 Inverter; and,
-Xantrex C60 charge controller.
I have been told that the C60 is overkill, but I wanted to be able to add additional panels.

Can anyone please help me by recommending the next (remaining) items I will need to purchase in order to have an operational system for running some lights, chargers, and small electronics?

Clearly, I will also need a battery strategy.

But what about wire, connectors, fuses, a panel, etc.?

I'd like to learn how to get things working this winter, so that we can use the system next summer.

Thanks!

[Sunking]

Welll your charge controller is an 8-Track tape and turns your 200 watt solar panels into a 100 watt solar panel, so I would start with an upgrade to a decent MPPT charge controller.

What do you have for batteries?

Inverter is way too large for a 12 volt system. To operate a 12 volt 200o watt inverter you would need a FLA 12 volt 1500 AH 1000 pound battery, or a AGM 12 volt 375 AH 300 pound battery. Not to mention a lot mare panel wattage and an additional charge controller.

Sounds like nothing you have is made to work with anything you have.

[moguitar]

I have 360 watts of panels at the average sun angle south on my garage roof. Connected with 10 gauge wires to a through the roof mast to a C40 charge controller with readout face. Then 4 AWG to 4 L16S in two banks of 12VDC. A Blue Sky terminal block with 300 amp fuze on the positive and two sets of Powerbright 4AWG Pro Series cables to an XPower3000 with grounded frame with #12/3 to a sub panel, and also an Prosine 1000 to its own GFI box. Selectable with thick aluminum foil shielding on the vented cabinet (batteries below, inverters above, in separate compartments).
This time of year they take in the max and put out 22 amps. It got up to taking in a daily total of 120 amp hours when we used the vacuum cleaner and did a couple loads of wash in the Staber. Plus I was using this computer off that system. More usual use is 40 to 70 Amp hours off that system per day. It turns to solid green after about 10 to 11 AM, depending on use.
When I want no buzz sound on my amps for playing guitar, I shut off the XPower and turn on the Prosine with the outlet feeding my amp power. I originally had a UPG1300/6000 that wore out(after 7 years) from being vertically mounted instead of horizontal. The original BZ30 got too hot (after adding a panel several years later) and I had to cover the panels until I got the C40. In the meantime I tried an MPPT 35 amp(they had just come out), and saw no real improvement so sent it back for the C40 with face for readouts. Everything has been working well, and no problem running power saws.
I think with 2-100watt panels mounted at the sun angle south, cookstove could charge a couple L-16Ss and a similar setup. The inverter, if not used to the max, should be OK if he shuts it off when not in use and has a good idea of the power he is taking in per day and using per day(getting a readout face for the C60 would be nice). The L-16Ss have carrying handles and weigh 125 lbs. each(a good dolly is nice). He would need the cross over + to - large cable made up by the battery supplier. Sounds like a pain to move all that every year.
I was wondering why the comparison to a 1970s 8 track tape player to the C60 charge controller. I think the $100 readout face for my C40 was well worth it to see performance. The inverter fans rarely come on, but will with heavy loads. The XPower when I run the 10 amp Carpet Pro or Skilsaw, and the Prosine 1000 when I turn on my 100 watt tube amp. The batteries have never read below 12.2 volts in 5 1/2 years, and read in the middle of the green with the hydrometer. I have a Vector charger/conditioner 2/10/25 amp I use occasionally, and at least the conditioner once a year (desulfator). Once a month or so I press the button on the charge controller to equalize. Before the L16Ss I had 6 golf cart batteries for 8 1/2 years (of lesser usage and less panels).
I do leave the XPower 3000 on most of the time. It has a fairly low idle load, but nothing as low as the old UPG 1300/6000 which now costs more (it was $99 originally!).

[cookstove]

Progress, perhaps?

Thanks, Mo, for the helpful and informative reply.

I actually returned the Xantrex C60 and replaced it with a SunSaver MPPT 15A charge controller. This choice will limit me to using just my two 100w panels, but that's probably good enough for a small system to learn on.

I also picked up two 6v batteries, to be wired in series for 12v, which are rated at 220AH.

Some cables and MC4 connectors are also on the way.

Again, I just want to charge some small devices, run a laptop, and power a few lights (CF and/or LED).

This leaves me with questions about my Xantrex PROwatt SW2000 inverter, which I may also return, as it seems to be mismatched (capability and overhead) relative to the system's other components.

Any ideas on what inverter might work well for the described system?

[moguitar]

Well, with a small system, probably the Samlex 300, or maybe 600, or even 180 watt w/o the fan. Here is an example;

http://www.amazon.com/Samlex-America-SA300112-300W-Inverter/dp/B003FFF41C/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1351635449&sr=8-7&keywords=300+watt+sine+wave+inverter

You can shop around and think of the max power you will use.

http://www.amazon.com/AIMS-PWRI18012S-Watt-Power-Inverter/dp/B002AMPHHC/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1351635937&sr=1-3&keywords=180+watt+sine+wave+inverter

I have both to select from in my Earthship, and prefer the no fan 180 watt to run my Marshal MG15ZWMS.

[Wy_White_Wolf]

....Again, I just want to charge some small devices, run a laptop, and power a few lights (CF and/or LED)....

How many of these small devices can be ran/charged from 12VDC? An inverter may not be needed.

If one is look at the wattage all your 120VAC loads draw. Figure out how many of them will be run at once so you know the largest wattage draw and add 50% to figure out the size of inverter needed.

WWW