solar chicken coop

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  • mrnewbie
    Junior Member
    • Feb 2010
    • 20

    #16
    First, Thanks guys for taking the time to help me figure this stuff out. I'm 3/4th's of the way there.

    Kinda having fun. Well kinda, sorta.

    Your example, My chicken coop numbers, substituted.

    Very first step is to determine your daily watt-hour usage for both winter and summer. The radio consumes 250 watts, 24 hours per, 7 days a week, 365 days per year. The daily watt-hour usage is 250 watts x 24 hours = 6000 watt-hours or 6 Kwh.

    250 watts x 24 hours = 6000 watt-hours

    (7watt and 15 watt bulb for 10hrs of bird light)
    7 watts x 10 hrs = 70 watt-hours
    15w x 10hrs = 150 watt hours

    Battery systems are extremely inefficient. To account for it and make computations easier we adjust for it right up front by taking the daily watt hour usage and multiply by 1.5, so 6000 wh x 1.5 = 9000 wh. This is how much energy the solar panels have to generate at their terminals. Note 9000 wh as it will be used to determine solar panel wattage and battery size.

    6000 wh x 1.5 = 9000 wh "we divided by.66 6000/.66= 9090 wh.. almost same x1.5 is simpler"

    70 wh x 1.5 = 105 wh
    150 wh x 1.5 = 225 wh


    To determine the solar panel wattage we need to determine the solar insolation in Sun Hours. In this case it will be December and January. Lets do it for two locations to demonstrate location means everything. One site will be Seattle and the other Tuscon. In Tuscon December insolation = 5.6 hours, Seattle = 1.4 hours. To determine the solar panel wattage we take the adjusted watt hours and divide by the Sun Hours.

    Seattle = 9000 wh / 1.4 h = 6428 w round up to 6500 watt solar panel array is needed.
    Tuscon = 9000 wh / 5.6 h = 1600 watt solar panel array needed.

    solar panel wattage
    We already figured sun hrs at 3.1 hrs at this local for winter but lets use 3
    105 wh/3 = 35 watt array
    225 wh/3 = 75 watt array


    So to determine battery capacity we take the adjusted daily wh usage and multiply by 5, so 9000 wh x 5 = 45,000 wh storage capacity. Now we select the system voltage to convert to Amp Hours. For a monster system like this we would want at least 48 volts or more. Since the radio equipment operates at 48 volts the selection is made for us. To find the AH rating take the wh and divide by system voltage. so 45,000 wh / 48 volts = 938 Amp Hours @ 48 volts round up to 950 AH.
    20% DOD per day is the most reasonable figure to use.

    What does DOD mean.?
    I'm thinking something like Degradation Of Discharge..?

    Others have suggested we never go under 90% of a charged batterys capacity..in my example I multiplied by 10..not 5..thinkin it would be much better on battery never using more than 10% of charge. But I have seen, never go under 80% of charge as well..But this a major point, we double our needed storage with this number..so I hope when you say X 5 you are right.
    lets go with your X 5 number.

    determine battery capacity
    9000 wh x 5 = 45,000 wh storage capacity

    105 wh x 5 = 525 wh storage cap for 7 watt bulb
    225 wh x 5 = 1125 wh storage cap for 15 watt bulb

    determine system voltage to convert to Amp Hours to get a battery size

    525wh / 12 volts = 43.75 Amp Hours @ 12 volts (Round up to next larger battery)
    1125wh / 12 volts = 93.75 Amp Hours @ 12 volts (Round up to next larger battery)

    At this point I'm confussed, from above I think we can use any 12v solar battery that has over 93ah storage is this correct?
    Or any 6 volt that can do over 186ah ?

    But can we charge a 12v battery with a 12 volt array...shouldn't we up the array to 24v or down the battery to 6v?

    From above calculations I think we can power a single 15 watt bulb for 10 hrs of operation or a 7watt for just over 20 hrs on 1 battery(12v or 6v), is this correct ??

    I really had no idea it would take so much battery..but we are only using 20% of the battery power to prolong battery life. Theoretically we could run it for 5 times as long..if it was a perfect world with a perfect battery.

    But it's not, one could say we can only use 10 to 20 percent of the battery..or it self destructs..in effect 80 to 90 percent loss..correct??

    Comment

    • Mike90250
      Moderator
      • May 2009
      • 16020

      #17
      DOD Depth of Discharge. If you use 20A out of a 100A battery, that's 20% discharged (80% of full charge)
      Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
      || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
      || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

      solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
      gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

      Comment

      • mrnewbie
        Junior Member
        • Feb 2010
        • 20

        #18
        My playin with the math for a Solar Chicken Chicken Coop

        6 steps to the Chicken solar project

        1) Determine daily watt hour requirements (15watt bulb)

        15w x 10 hrs = 150wh

        2) Battery system required (1.5 is standard to account for battery inefficiency)

        150whx1.5 = 225wh

        3) Solar panel size required depends on the Sun Isolation Factor for your location (3).

        225wh/3 = 75w array (we have an 80watt array)

        4) Determine battery needed at 20% DOD so as to never discharge under 80%

        225wh x 5= 1125 wh

        5) Battery size needed depends on system voltage

        1125wh/12v system volt = 93.75ah 12 volt battery needed

        6) Charge controller is based on current required (with 12v battery) Solar panel array size/system voltage

        80watt panel/12volt = 6.6A so any 12V controller that can handle 7+ amps

        This is the cheapest MPPT charger controller I could find ..YMMV . Its a 12V 10A unit about $80
        hxxp://cgi.ebay.com/10A-12V-Solar-MPPT-Power-Charger-Regulator-Controller_W0QQitemZ220546641928QQcmdZViewItemQQpt ZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item33599ab008

        In conclusion, I think we have designed a nice little 15 watt chicken coop system..
        All you need is the charge controller $80 and cost of battery $150-$200, a little wire and the light bulb.
        This is a 12 volt system, which means you need a 12V light bulb rated at around 15 watts, I would think some kind of automotive or specialty bulb would be fine..as long as its at or less than 15 watts
        Here is the perfect bulb match, but I don't know how much heat it will make for you..Buy one..hook it up to a 12v and see if it gets warm
        You could take a piece of aluminum flashing(or beer can), put behind bulb as reflector to maxamize warming effect
        hxxp://www.lightbulbsdirect.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=7FCCL12V&Cat egory_Code=LandIncanLowVolt&Product_Count=6

        You may also choose to get like a 40 or so watt bulb..put it on a switch, for a people bulb. Just remember it will drain your battery fast and should just be used for quick feeding..and cleaning.


        With all the above all done, This is not the best way to do this... to many losses and it cost you around $250.

        A better way would be...

        We have a 80watt array that makes 80w x3(winter) hrs = 240wh , just plug it all into the wall!
        In summer maybe 4-5 hrs 320wh/400wh (25watt bulb for reasonable yearly average)
        Go with a cheap grid tied inverter a 300w unit cost $100..This takes about 90% of panel output and goes right into wall.
        Run an extension cord out to coop , give em 120V..keep the bulb small 15-25watt. You will be breaking even, in effect powering the coop for free, and can add more panels if you like

        Comment

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