Barn solar system (I'm very new to this)

[Shockah]

haha, I figgered that was not a complete description of your product. So after 24 months the customer is expected to pay two hundred for battery plus install when it fails, ok. What's the daily discharge % of that $190 (at today's price) battery? .... I'm thinking... $190 AGM... that's about 100Ah batt so you're daily discharging to 50%? Might last 25 months and then you get repeat biz. Might last much less and then... bet that's the last time you offer a two year guarantee.

SunEagle and I live in Florida where digging a trench is like playing in a sand box. Bout 8 years ago I hand dug about 250 foot, of 18+inch deep trench for a power line on this acre and it only took me a few days, the most work was going in around under some big tree roots.

Your assumption is incorrect.
$190 is for 230ah, FLA... daily discharge 20%.
(again, please know the true facts and don't base your conclusions on assumptions if you are going to berate me).

So you're guesstimating 25months,,, based on that:
$190 for batteries...
vs
$612 for utility (assuming HECO kwh rate remains the same)
^^^ NoBrainer there.

Yes, we've all played in sandboxes... but some people have moved on from that stage in life.
The property receiving the solar lights is a commercial property owned by a real estate investor.
He is not a DIYer... he does not play with shovels and buckets, and rather pay to have any improvements done properly, by licensed contractors, according to city code.

I'm sure you'll have a snappy reply to this...
but I am done defending the action of the contractor who quoted the $6000 and the property owner who received it.

Yeah, I'm cynical of some who compare apples an oranges or don't give complete facts. Getting the facts straight is something few salespeople do and I called you on that. Setting an example for others to avoid grid power for solar involves including ALL the facts. Small costs add up and future maintenance costs cannot be ignored in off grid solar. Solar economy is also very much based on geography, what works in Hawaii may be nonsense for the OP in Colorado. You are making a buck with your posts here?? Good luck on your future profits in real life.

You called me on it... and I answered... with facts... very transparently and with nothing to hide.
No scam here.

The root of your issue is clear: You obviously have allowed yourself to be burnt by a salesperson in the past,
and haven't healed from it.

You're right... we live in two very different worlds.
But does that give you the right to berate someone from a different demographic,
who posts facts about differences in cost?

FloridaSun I get your ultimate message... my opinion and experiences don't matter on this forum... because I live across the ocean.
Honestly, I have nothing to prove here. I was doing just fine a few days ago, before I found this forum.

Aaaaand I am sure you will have a snappy reply to this too, however I've said what I wanted to say, I am done with this thread, you can have the last word.

Now I must get on with my day... I have real life future profits to tend to.

[SunEagle]

This is Hawaii, buddy... land of the most expensive cost of living in the USA.
The $6000 quoted was to dig a trench thru an asphalt lot, plumb the conduit, repave the trench, code-wire the lights to the grid & mount junction boxes onto the posts. All the work above requires city permits and licensed contractors.

... and that doesn't include the cost of the lamp fixtures or the labor to install them.

Wow. I guess the cost of contract work is pretty high out there. Remind me not to go live in Hawaii. Nice place to visit but boy I couldn't afford to have any work done there.

[FloridaSun]

Your assumption is incorrect.
$190 is for 230ah, FLA... daily discharge 20%.
(again, please know the true facts and don't base your conclusions on assumptions if you are going to berate me).

So you're guesstimating 25months,,, based on that:
$190 for batteries...
vs
$612 for utility (assuming HECO kwh rate remains the same)
^^^ NoBrainer there.

Never disagreed with you on the $6K quote for buried lines. I do disagree with your math. Your $612 saved is for two systems/batteries and also those batteries are only getting a 42W draw, not 100W each system.
42W x 12h x 365 x .35 = $65 annual grid cost per light.
That would almost pay for a battery every three years... assuming your high elect. rates and your low battery prices do not change.

[Naptown]

Many utilities will connect street and parking lot lighting as unmetered items. They will also maintain and relamp the fixture as necessary.
This may be where the cost difference may have come in.
BTW in the volcanic soil and probably rock of Hawaii with asphalt cutting and patching $6000 doesn't seem bad at all as far as costs go.

[SunEagle]

Many utilities will connect street and parking lot lighting as unmetered items. They will also maintain and relamp the fixture as necessary.
This may be where the cost difference may have come in.
BTW in the volcanic soil and probably rock of Hawaii with asphalt cutting and patching $6000 doesn't seem bad at all as far as costs go.

I agree. Especially if the pavement must be returned to perfect condition due to specific requirements. Some local codes really add to the cost of even a small job.

[Naptown]

I agree. Especially if the pavement must be returned to perfect condition due to specific requirements. Some local codes really add to the cost of even a small job.

Local codes can be very expensive.
The county I live in has now required structural engineered wet stamped plans for every solar install including Hot water
This adds about $1000 to the cost to the consumer to have this done. On a small hot water system this is about 15%.
In 99% of the houses we work in it is unnecessary. I have put hundreds of systems out for structural engineering and 0 have come back as not working structurally.
I also work in DC where there are very old row homes where the roof framing can get questionable. (read really funky) On these I can agree to a sign off from an engineer. But 90% of what we work on has been built in the last 30 years and codes as far as roof structure have not changed that much as far as roof loading is concerned. A common sense approach is more in order.