My First Solar Powered Boat Project

[SolarCanoe]

Hi Naptown, could you elaborate on the special terminals I should use?

I was also thinking of putting a low power LED on each panel so that I can see if they are working (when there is sun of course). I found some 20v LEDs (the panels are 18v) that would be easy to mount facing down so that we could see them from under the canopy. I can't see any problem with this as long as there is a load on the panel, but what would happen if there was only the LED across the panel terminals. I'm guessing the voltage could go up to the 22.5 Voc but that should not be too much for the 20V LED. Can anyone see a problem with doing this?

[looc]

Also be careful terminating fine strand wire like that it takes a special terminal.

If I ever run into issues managing strands (if they are copper) I'd generally solder the ends before crimping them on to
terminals. Not sure whether its a good practice or not, but it has worked.

[Sunking]

If I ever run into issues managing strands (if they are copper) I'd generally solder the ends before crimping them on to
terminals. Not sure whether its a good practice or not, but it has worked.

Sorry but that is horrible advice.

[Sunking]

Hi Naptown, could you elaborate on the special terminals I should use?

Fine stranded wire terminals for wire classes C, D, G, and H require special compression terminals and full encirclement tooling to properly compress the terminals. The terminals have longer barrels and slightly smaller diameters and use a hydraulic compression tool. For a DIY your best bet is to use a factory made cables made to order in the proper length, wire gauge, and terminal hole size from a cable shop who has the correct tooling.

For example a Burndy YAZV2CTC14FX a #2 AWG copper terminal made for 1/4 inch bolt hole extra flexible cable classes C, D, G, and H. The proper tool for it is something like these:

Burndy PAT750LI
Burndy Y35
Burndy MD734KIT1

[TomCat58]

This whole thing started when I was looking into DIY canoe stabilizers/outriggers. I have done some experimenting with outriggers that use pool noodles as the pontoons. My test rig worked much better than I had expected. I am now in the process of making final versions of this sort of outrigger. I also rigged up a simple motor mount and we tried out a Minn Kota Traxxis 45 lb thrust trolling motor. I used the deep cycle battery from the trailer we purchased this summer. I suspect it is 7 years old and never really drawn on as the trailer was permanently hooked up to the grid. It was great for about 20 minutes and then died. It was enough for us to know we really liked the quiet motor and how fast it could push the canoe.

The 50 watt semi-flexible solar panels have arrived. They are quite light and all together weigh about 30 lbs. I should mention that we would be making some sort of canopy anyway so now I will make it using these light flexible panels. Now I need to figure out how to test them. I guess I should expose them to some sun light with some sort of load and see what sort of voltage and current they produce.

I hope to try out the final outriggers this weekend before it gets too cold here. I will try to post some photos of the canoe with the outriggers.

I was just reading back through your post. Can you tell me what brand and model your flexible solar panels are ? And how many your putting on your canoe ?
Thanks
Tomcat

[SolarCanoe]

Hi TomCat58,

Here is a link to the solar panels I have: click here

I have twelve of them.

[russ]

Hi TomCat58,

Here is a link to the solar panels I have: click here

I have twelve of them.

Frst I saw a 50 watt semi flexible mono panel for 134 dollars - upon checking it says

"Slimline and flexible up to 3% (=3cm over 1m)across their length" - not what I would call even semi flexible.

[SunEagle]

That is the manufacturer that I purchased my 80 watt folding panel system from. It is nicely built but the CC is of low quality and the price I paid was almost $3/watt.

Small Portable PV sys pic3.jpg

[SolarCanoe]

Maybe you guys can help clear up some confusion for me. I can get 8 AWG wire in black and red fairly easily from a local hardware type store called Princess Auto. 6 AWG seems to be much harder to find. So I looked up the current rating for 8 AWG copper wire and found several different answers.

One source indicated it is 73 amps for chassis wiring and 24 amps for power transmission.

Wikipedia has a table that has current rated at 40 / 50 / 55 for 60/75/90 °C
insulation.

and yet another site has a table that indicates 24 Amps maximum for 8 AWG wire.

My trolling motor could draw up to 45 amps so I don't know if I should believe the 73 amps for chassis wiring or the 24 amps for power transmission or something in between.

Can anyone tell me if I should continue looking for some 6 AWG at least to run from the battery to the motor controller and then on to the motor or will the 8 AWG wire do the job?

for $40 Cdn I could get a set of booster cables at Princess Auto that are all copper wire. That would do the battery to motor run. They also sell black and red 8 AWG spools for $22 each. The 8 AWG wire would be plenty heavy enough to run from the panels to the charge controller and on to the battery and other loads. 25ft would be plenty to do all the wiring if I don't need to go with 6 AWG to the motor. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[SolarCanoe]

That is the manufacturer that I purchased my 80 watt folding panel system from. It is nicely built but the CC is of low quality and the price I paid was almost $3/watt.

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Hi SunEagle,

I offered the seller 109 USD thinking he would not take and was surprised by the acceptance. So I paid about $2.18/watt. They seem to be quit well made and I would say they are semi-flexible. I don't plan on flexing them very much if at all, I was attracted by the light weight and thinness of them.

[SunEagle]

Hi SunEagle,

I offered the seller 109 USD thinking he would not take and was surprised by the acceptance. So I paid about $2.18/watt. They seem to be quit well made and I would say they are semi-flexible. I don't plan on flexing them very much if at all, I was attracted by the light weight and thinness of them.

They look pretty good for your application. Not heavy at all with a little flex so should be easy to mount. Hopefully they put out their nameplate wattage that they claim.

[SolarCanoe]

Wiring is turning out to be the most difficult choice for me. However I think I have arrived at a solution. Not only is it difficult to locate 6 and 8 AWG wire but connectors are hard to find also. Other than battery terminal connectors I can't find anything for 6AWG wire. I can find connectors for 8 AWG wire. I'm still not sure if I need 6 or 8 AWG to run from the center of the canoe back to the motor.

So what I think I will do is order enough 8 AWG wire to do all the wiring and run to the motor with 2 red and two black. This way I will be able to get connectors and more than accommodate the current to the motor. I will probably start with one run to the motor and see if the wire gets warm.

[SunEagle]

Wiring is turning out to be the most difficult choice for me. However I think I have arrived at a solution. Not only is it difficult to locate 6 and 8 AWG wire but connectors are hard to find also. Other than battery terminal connectors I can't find anything for 6AWG wire. I can find connectors for 8 AWG wire. I'm still not sure if I need 6 or 8 AWG to run from the center of the canoe back to the motor.

So what I think I will do is order enough 8 AWG wire to do all the wiring and run to the motor with 2 red and two black. This way I will be able to get connectors and more than accommodate the current to the motor. I will probably start with one run to the motor and see if the wire gets warm.

The temperature of the wire may tell you something but it could be misleading. You should use a DC clamp on meter to determine how many amps the motor really draws at different speeds. That would be a better indicator if you are overloading the wire or not.

[TomCat58]

The temperature of the wire may tell you something but it could be misleading. You should use a DC clamp on meter to determine how many amps the motor really draws at different speeds. That would be a better indicator if you are overloading the wire or not.

Here is what I am using to determine DC amps drawn on all my solar canoe wiring. I don't know if its real accurate but its probable within a amp or so.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001VGND88/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

TomCat

[SunEagle]

Here is what I am using to determine DC amps drawn on all my solar canoe wiring. I don't know if its real accurate but its probable within a amp or so.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001VGND88/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

TomCat

That meter should work ok for your needs.

Just make sure you use the first selection to the left of the Off position. That A with the flat line is the DC amp selection.