My First Solar Powered Boat Project

[SolarCanoe]

Instrument Panel

I decided to go old-school with my monitoring meters. Sort of like and old fighter aircraft cockpit style.

I'm thinking I monitor current from the solar panels, probably after the charge controller, the battery voltage and current, and the load current. The battery amp meter will need to be a +/- type. Then I will need some switches. I am assuming I will find a way to use linear actuators to extend/retract the pontoons, raise & lower the motor, and raise and lower a pair of wheels. I am also thinking some LED rope lights around the canopy would be a cool touch.

Instrument Panel.JPG

Is there any point in monitoring the Solar Panel voltage?

I am also thinking that I will have an LED per panel so that I can see that they are working. These will be up under the canopy not on the instrument panel.

At some point I want to remove the tiller/controller unit from the top of the trolling motor shaft and mount it in front of me. I will use some sort of cable linkage to turn the motor. Recently I had to do some plumbing with PEX tubing and I think I could use it to guide the steering cables instead of a bunch of pulleys. The PEX tubing is stiff but bendable so I think it would work well to guide the steering cable from the front mounted tiller/controller to arms mounted on the vertical motor shaft.

YES the plot thickens!

[SunEagle]

I decided to go old-school with my monitoring meters. Sort of like and old fighter aircraft cockpit style.

I'm thinking I monitor current from the solar panels, probably after the charge controller, the battery voltage and current, and the load current. The battery amp meter will need to be a +/- type. Then I will need some switches. I am assuming I will find a way to use linear actuators to extend/retract the pontoons, raise & lower the motor, and raise and lower a pair of wheels. I am also thinking some LED rope lights around the canopy would be a cool touch.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]3245[/ATTACH]

Is there any point in monitoring the Solar Panel voltage?

I am also thinking that I will have an LED per panel so that I can see that they are working. These will be up under the canopy not on the instrument panel.

At some point I want to remove the tiller/controller unit from the top of the trolling motor shaft and mount it in front of me. I will use some sort of cable linkage to turn the motor. Recently I had to do some plumbing with PEX tubing and I think I could use it to guide the steering cables instead of a bunch of pulleys. The PEX tubing is stiff but bendable so I think it would work well to guide the steering cable from the front mounted tiller/controller to arms mounted on the vertical motor shaft.

YES the plot thickens!

Looks cool. Be careful with any additional loads like the pontoon actuators and rope lights. You may need to increase the battery size but you should be ok as long as you don't decide to go fly that boat.

[SolarCanoe]

Extendable Pontoon Outriggers

Tonight I almost finished fabricating the extendable version of the outrigger pontoons. Just a couple of small things to finish up tomorrow morning and then we should be good to go for some testing in the afternoon.

IMG_0393 - small.JPGIMG_0394 - small.JPGIMG_0395 - small.JPGIMG_0396 - small.JPG

[TomCat58]

Hello All!

I am in the early stages of putting together an electric boat. I have searched the net to get some answers to questions I have but I am still not sure I am on the right track. I am an electronics technologist so I do understand the basics of Ohm's Law etc. I finally decided I would have to join a forum and outline my plans and get some feedback on my plans so far.

Background Info: My wife and I purchased a trailer in a seasonal campground and now have access to a very nice lake to go canoing on. We have a little 12 ft canoe that has been in the garage for 15 or more years. While we liked the opportunity to spend some time on the water we found the canoe less stable than we remember and decided to make some sort of outriggers. While researching that I ran across examples of people using trolling motors to power their canoes. Thus began this new project.

My plan is to make a very light weight canopy to keep the sun off of us, so naturally I started looking into solar panels. Long story short, I made a very low offer for 8 50 watt semi-flexible solar panels off of ebay and much to my surprise it was accepted so now I have 400 watts worth of solar panels for my canopy.

I plan to get a Minn Kota Enduro Max 40 trolling motor. It can produce 40 lbs of thrust and given 1 amp per lb thrust could draw as much as 40 amps full out. The current drops off quite quickly and at more moderate speeds will be down around 10 amps or less. This motor employs a maximizer circuit (ie, PWM) speed control that can extend battery life significantly over a conventional speed control on lower speeds. At full speed the currentt draw is the same.

I have found a 40 amp MPPT Solar Charge Controller on ebay, Tracer 4210RN, that is rated at 40 amp maximum battery current and 20 amps maximum load current. This does not seem like it is adequate since the motor can draw up to 40 amps and the max load current is only 20 amps.

I have also found some nice retro round analog amp and volt meters on ebay. I thought I would go for a nostalgic aircraft cockpit look and have an amp meter on the solar panels, battery, and load. The battery meter will have to be a +/- 0-50A meter and the other two can be 0-50. I know I probably don't need 50A range but the next range down is 20 amp which is probably too low. I would also add three voltmeters.

Equipment Summary:

Solar Panels 400 watts (8 x 50 watt).

Minn Kota Enduro Max 40 Trolling Motor (40 lbs thrust, max 40 amps).

Tracer 4210RN 40 Amp MPPT Solar Charge Controller.

Some retro round meters to monitor current draw and voltages.


My Questions:

1. I have already ordered the solar panels. 8 50 watt panels. I decided to go this way so that a panel failure represents less of the total. Vm=18V Im=2.78A (Voc=22.19 Isc=3A). Should I simply connect them all in parallel, or would there be an advantage in connecting them as 4 groups of 2 in series then all the groups in parallel to up the Vm to 36V? If I stick with the 18v parallel arrangement will a regular charge controller be almost as good as a MPPT type?

2. Should I connect the trolling motor to the battery or the load connectors on the charge controller. If the motor is connected to the battery will the panels supply current to the motor once the battery is dead? If the battery is fully charged and the solar panels can supply enough current to drive the motor will the battery remain unused until the solar panel power drops due to a lack of sunlight? Should I try to find a charge controller that can handle a 40 amp load?

3. Give the overkill of solar panels I am thinking I won't need a very large battery, maybe a 75 Amp Hour deep cycle battery would be enough. Assuming a battery rated at 75 AH is really only good for about 40 amp hours and that I would keep the motor current under 20 amps I assume that gives us about two hours to get home if we stay out after dark. Are these reasonable assumptions?

4. I'm sure I have forgotten something so please bring anything else I should consider to my attention.

Thanks in advance for any answers and comments

Todd

I am doing a solar canoe project myself and have found that some information online is not very accurate. It seems that one amp draw for each pound of thrust might be what older trolling motors might be but I like you have a newer 45 max minn kota with the computer board. I can't get more then a 23 amp draw on full throttle from my trolling motor. Then combine that with the canoes hull speed of my canoe and its simple a waste to run my motor over 3/4 speed.

Ever different motor and boat combo will show different results. The only way to find out what your canoe and motor will draw in amps is to go test it out. I have a clamp around the positive wire DC amp meter and a prostar 30 amp solar controller that shows my load. Using them both at the same time has confirmed real amp draw.

Along with amp draw and motor throttle settings you will figure out what is best. I use a fishfinder gps to track my speed too.

This guys website shows a more accurate amp draw at what throttle settings and boat speed and how it effects battery life better then anything else I have read so far. http://tufox.com/hobie/TrollingPerformance.html

My two cents
TomCat58

[inetdog]

My two cents
TomCat58

I would value that at at least $2.00, thanks!

[TomCat58]

Its true that solar charging amps are not very stable if your running around a lake in several directions and the boat is rocking BUT If your heading down the Columbia river in a pretty straight line and the canoe is not rocking I found a pretty stable reading of solar amp input. As the sun rose over the solar panels it climbed steady and dropped off slowly as the sun set.

Some of the videos on solar canoes seem to be right after they fully charge the batteries. I guy claims he gets 14 mph lol But can't say how he arrived at that speed ? Maybe he charge the heck out of his battery and this is the first 5 minutes at full throttle ! But I bet good money he never got even close to 14mph https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7RwxT84Zhjs


My 100 mile 5 day 4 night trip on the Columbia River showed me what would works and would not at what speeds and amp draws. There is no cheating when you are out in the middle of no where with just the sun. I could match amps from the panels with amps used and feel the motor slow and speed up with clouds cover then back to clear skies.

With a trip like this, you can't plug in or solar charge for 3-4 days. You then know what your boat can really do... LOL Have fun with your solar canoe project ! I am

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g3wdUXNEFRI

[SolarCanoe]

Hey! TomCat

What a cool trip! Could you give some details of the solar setup on your canoe? Panels, battery, controller, motor, etc. I'm particularly interested in how you matched load current to solar panel current?

[TomCat58]

I had one panel but added a second before the Columbia trip. The total watts are 255 and about 14 amps from 2 panels. I have a 30 amp Morningstar prostar 30M controller mounted in a water proof case under the panels. About ever 5 seconds it goes from battery volts then solar amps from the panels then to amps being used on the controller load. It easy to see from the volts if your wearing the batteries down. Its also easy to watch the solar amps coming in amd amps being used and simple adjust the trolling motor throttle so I am using within a half amp or so the same amount.

That system along with other considerations make it pretty easy to go all day, day after day. Here is another video on that trip that shows I am getting about 9 amps in the afternoon and using about 8.3 amps on the Ipod player and the trolling motor. I would get off the river around 5-6 pm and setup camp and avoid the upriver winds that the late afternoon would bring.

The system would then have a few hours on the beach to fully charge and top off the batteries. The next morning I am all ready to go again. The cloudy skies slow me down some but with a canoe like this if your in any hurry you don't want solar power in the first place. I hope I answered your questions ? if not fire away and I try again.

This video with a shoot of amps from panels (9)then amps being used on the load connection on the controller (8.3) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vPlUQoNV0G0

The controller like many will disconnect when the battery starts to get low BUT I wired a switch to either run the motor off the load OR straight from the battery. This allows me to lower the amp use and continue or take a break on shore and let the batteries charge up some.

I am switching to a MPPT controller very soon so I should be getting more amps from the panels and to the battery soon.

Tomcat

[SolarCanoe]

Motor Mount Taking Shape

Just a little update. I purchased a 16' canoe to give us a little more room to work with. I also upgraded my pontoons to a three noodle design to help out when we have 50 lbs or so of canopy 5' overhead. I also started working on my motor mount. I had to put it together enough to see what sort of stroke I will need on the linear actuator to raise the motor out of the water.

IMG_0399_small.jpgIMG_0400_small.jpgIMG_0401_small.jpgIMG_0402_small.jpg

I also bit the bullet and ordered a MPPT Solar Charge Controller. It is a 40A MPPT Tracer 4210R 100V Solar Battery Charge Controller Panel 12 24 V.

Here are the specs given in the ebay listing:



Features:

·MPPT technology
·Peak conversion efficiency of 97%
·High Tracking efficiency of 99%
·Several seconds tracking speed
·4-Stage charge with PWM output
·Nature convection cooling
·Full power output in ambient temperature up to 45 ℃
·Temperature compensation
·Sealed, Gel and Flooded battery option
·Widely used, automatically recognize day/night
·Diversified load control
·RJ45 interface &optional meter
·2 years warranty
·CE certificate

Electronic Protections：
·PV array short circuit
·Over discharging
·Over charging
·Load overload
·Load short circuit
·PV reverse polarity
·Battery reverse polarity

Specifications:

Model = Tracer-4210RN

Rated system voltage = 12/24V auto work

Rated battery current = 40A

Rated load current = 20A

Max.battery voltage = 32V

Max.PV open circuit voltage = 100VDC

Max.PV input power = 12V 520W， 24V 1040W

Self-consumption = <10mA（24V）

Charge Circuit Voltage Drop = ≤0.26V

Discharge Circuit Voltage Drop = ≤0.15V

Communication = TTL232 / 8 pin RJ45

Temp.compensation = -30mV/℃/12V（25℃）

Working temperature = -35℃～+55℃

Storage temperature range = -35℃～+80℃

Humidity = 10%-90% NC

Enclosure = IP30

Altitude = ≤3000m

Dimension = 242mm x 169mm x 91mm

Mounting holes = 180mm x 160mm

Mounting hole size = Φ5

Terminal = 25mm2

Weight = 2kg


Well the weather is supposed to turn colder and wet so I won't be doing much more work on the canoe, pontoons, or motor mount. however I think I can get some work done on the solar panel canopy. I have an empty bedroom I'm supposed to be putting laminate flooring in that is just big enough to build the canopy. I plan to make it in two sections that can be folded. The fully assembled canopy will be about 10' long and 5' wide. This will break down into two pieces 5' long and folded down to about 30". The panels alone will weigh about 30 lb, and the frame will add another 10 lb or so.

[SunEagle]

I also bit the bullet and ordered a MPPT Solar Charge Controller. It is a 40A MPPT Tracer 4210R 100V Solar Battery Charge Controller Panel 12 24 V.


Specifications:

Model = Tracer-4210RN

I have had my eye on one of those Tracer CC. Still waiting on someone to tell me if it is truely an MPPT and how well it works. Let me know how you make out with it.

[TomCat58]

Just a little update. I purchased a 16' canoe to give us a little more room to work with. I also upgraded my pontoons to a three noodle design to help out when we have 50 lbs or so of canopy 5' overhead. I also started working on my motor mount. I had to put it together enough to see what sort of stroke I will need on the linear actuator to raise the motor out of the water.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]3270[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]3271[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]3272[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]3273[/ATTACH]

I also bit the bullet and ordered a MPPT Solar Charge Controller. It is a 40A MPPT Tracer 4210R 100V Solar Battery Charge Controller Panel 12 24 V.

Here are the specs given in the ebay listing:



Features:

·MPPT technology
·Peak conversion efficiency of 97%
·High Tracking efficiency of 99%
·Several seconds tracking speed
·4-Stage charge with PWM output
·Nature convection cooling
·Full power output in ambient temperature up to 45 ℃
·Temperature compensation
·Sealed, Gel and Flooded battery option
·Widely used, automatically recognize day/night
·Diversified load control
·RJ45 interface &optional meter
·2 years warranty
·CE certificate

Electronic Protections：
·PV array short circuit
·Over discharging
·Over charging
·Load overload
·Load short circuit
·PV reverse polarity
·Battery reverse polarity

Specifications:

Model = Tracer-4210RN

Rated system voltage = 12/24V auto work

Rated battery current = 40A

Rated load current = 20A

Max.battery voltage = 32V

Max.PV open circuit voltage = 100VDC

Max.PV input power = 12V 520W， 24V 1040W

Self-consumption = <10mA（24V）

Charge Circuit Voltage Drop = ≤0.26V

Discharge Circuit Voltage Drop = ≤0.15V

Communication = TTL232 / 8 pin RJ45

Temp.compensation = -30mV/℃/12V（25℃）

Working temperature = -35℃～+55℃

Storage temperature range = -35℃～+80℃

Humidity = 10%-90% NC

Enclosure = IP30

Altitude = ≤3000m

Dimension = 242mm x 169mm x 91mm

Mounting holes = 180mm x 160mm

Mounting hole size = Φ5

Terminal = 25mm2

Weight = 2kg


Well the weather is supposed to turn colder and wet so I won't be doing much more work on the canoe, pontoons, or motor mount. however I think I can get some work done on the solar panel canopy. I have an empty bedroom I'm supposed to be putting laminate flooring in that is just big enough to build the canopy. I plan to make it in two sections that can be folded. The fully assembled canopy will be about 10' long and 5' wide. This will break down into two pieces 5' long and folded down to about 30". The panels alone will weigh about 30 lb, and the frame will add another 10 lb or so.

Wow sounds like your going full speed ahead. I decided on the the Morning Star Sunsaver MPPT 15 amp TrakSar with remote meter and optional battery temperature cable.

I have a bad shoulder so a bought a mini boat trailer kit a few months back because a project like this soon becomes to man handle. I am working now on a fed waterproof cases for the meter and controller. Keep posting as your project progresses so we can compare notes

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[SolarCanoe]

What Kind Of Wire?

I was trying to figure out where to get 8 or 6 AWG flexible wire when it occurred to me that booster cables are flexible and high current wire. When I was looking at them some are copper clad aluminum, and some are all copper wire. I would imagine the copper clad aluminum would be lighter but is it the right thing to use in my application?

[Sunking]

I was trying to figure out where to get 8 or 6 AWG flexible wire when it occurred to me that booster cables are flexible and high current wire. When I was looking at them some are copper clad aluminum, and some are all copper wire. I would imagine the copper clad aluminum would be lighter but is it the right thing to use in my application?

If price is no object use copper. Clad or aluminum has to be used with proper terminations rated for AL and CU. AL is just asking for trouble in a marine environment if not treated properly.

[SolarCanoe]

Thanks for the warning Sunking, that's what I figured.

[Naptown]

Also be careful terminating fine strand wire like that it takes a special terminal.