My First Solar Powered Boat Project

[SolarCanoe]

Today i went on the hunt for a smaller alloy pulley. I did find 7" and 6" pulleys. Ehen it came time to drill out the center of the 5" pulley the construction of the hub would have made it very difficult if not impossible. Therefore I opted for the 7" pulley. Due to the depth of the V grove the diameter the cable actually runs on is about 6". Therefore the cable will move roughly 9" in either direction to give a rotation of more than 300 degrees.

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Even though the 7" pulley is only 1" smaller it looks much better proportioned. I think the 6" would have worked as well and looked even more compact. You may notice the cables are no longer taped to the lifting arm. While trying to decide how to mount the cables I realized they could run inside the lift for an even cleaner look. I rummaged around at the local fastener store and finally came up with a very common 1/8" threaded brass pipe plug as my solution. I drilled out the threaded end to accept the cable housing. Then a 1/16" hole all the way through for the wire cable. I also countersunk the the exit for the wire to try to minimize wear on the cable. With a little more fine tuning I can probably get the cable to run straight out of the hole except when the pulley connection point get very close to the cable exit.

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I had to add one more tool to my arsenal, a 1/8" tapered pipe thread tap. Don't let the size fool you, the thread diameter is more like 3/8 but the plug is meant to be used with 1/8" brass pipe fittings. I simply drilled and tapped the wall of the PVC Tee and threaded the plugs in nice and snug. Works like a charm and the motor still turns quite easily despite the fairly sharp 90 degree turn the cables make inside the mount. As I mentioned before I will replace the top tee on the motor shaft with an elbow and also run the motor wire through the motor mount/lift to give the whole thing a nice clean look.

Well I think I have run out of excuses not to get started on that flooring installation job I've putting off. I hope by the time I get the floors done it will be warm enough to get outside, pull the canoes out of the garage and get down to some final design and implementation.

Cheers

[TomCat58]

Yarrrgh matey! check your messages.

Mail checked and reply sent

Signed: Solar Pirate of the Columbia River !Internet_Pirate_Flag_1.jpg

[dudevato]

making some progress on the canoe

moved it out into the yard as it's been sunny here lately. I was working on the steering linkage but had to get the outrigger mounting structure rigged up to let me finish the steering linkage. That is now done.

You can see a 10 foot length of pvc pipe running a few inches off the right side of the canoe. You are looking at the front of the canoe in the pic. I need a slip connector and another say 4 feet of pipe glued on.

This is all working out very well and when I run into a problem it doesn't take long to figure something out.

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[SolarCanoe]

My two (4 and 6) grand daughters love to go out in the boat with me and argue on who is first mate and they bought me a little pirate flag they want me to put on the boat.

Yarrrgh matey! check your messages.

[TomCat58]

This project but it is sooooo! much more fun and satisfying than going to work every day developing and writing software to analyze data from wind tunnel experiments! Oh ya writing software was great for 32 years but now I just want to build fun toys and leave the real work for the kids to do. [/QUOTE]

I was forced to retire due to a severe injury that left me disabled. I too find building my boat with all the customizing and fabrication a great Hobie that gets me moving around more and challenges my mind and creativity. When I get it on the water my old slow mind always has a few light bulbs go off on how to improve it some more. Spring is almost here and I hope to have it back in the water in about 10 days. Oh yeeeeaaaah that will be nice as I am tired of old man winter.

A few things to try out will be the new MPPT controller, 72 percent efficient(PWM) to 97 percent efficient MPPT. Then with the addition of a third solar panel and the new remote steer should be some cool improvements. My two (4 and 6) grand daughters love to go out in the boat with me and argue on who is first mate and they bought me a little pirate flag they want me to put on the boat.

I know exactly what your talking about

[SolarCanoe]

Some of the people who build amateur antennas use several sizes of tubing that fit snugly
together. You can find ads for some in a HAM magazine such as QST. Bruce Roe

There is an online supplier of metal called Metal Supermarkets. When I was looking at aluminum tubing I noticed they have tubing with wall thicknesses slightly less than 1/16" and 1/8". The tubing outside diameter sizes go up in 1/8" increments. Therefore it should be easy to select various tubing sizes that will slide smoothly inside each other.

In our case being able to go into the local Home Depot or Lowes and find aluminum tubing sizes and PVC pipe and conduit sizes that will work together well is a real bonus and that appeals to the MacGyver in all of us DIYers. Part of the fun for me with these type of projects is trying to do it with relatively easy to acquire parts and materials. It's also fun to borrow ideas and solutions from other types of projects like ham radio. Don't get me wrong I will order material from companies like Metal Supermarkets if I can't find a solution at Lowes or Home Depot but I always channel my inner MacGyver first.

[SolarCanoe]

Bicycle Headset Trial

I picked up an inexpensive headset today, and gave it a try. The inside diameter of the 1" pvc pipe fitting is almost perfect and only required a small amount of sanding to make it a nice press fit. It turns out that when they say 1 1/8" steering tube they actually mean 30mm, which is slightly bigger (1.181102") than the motor shaft and therefore a tiny bit sloppy, but quite acceptable for this purpose.

I purchased the aluminum collars off of eBay. If I can determine that a bicycle seat tube clamp can be used on the 1 1/8" motor shaft it would be a lot cheaper. Of course there are a lot of ways to make a collar with a hose clamp and some PVC or better yet a wide split headset spacer.

The friction has been all but eliminated. Getting the motor to turn by pulling on the brake cables is quite easy when the shaft is vertical. When I lift the motor the friction of the top tee and the weight of the motor make it difficult to get the motor to turn. In the finished product I will probably add a bearing to the top tee as well. This has worked so well I think I could get away with a smaller pulley. I may just have to try that and an additional bearing on the top tee.

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So I am quite pleased with these results. There is still some refinement to be done on the motor mount/lift and I still have not decided what I should put on the other end of the cables to steer with. I really like the idea of being able to steer from the front or rear of the canoe. I'm also thinking of putting the speed and actuator switches on a pendant that could be place in the front or rear so you could captain from either location. I am beginning to realize I am just scratching the surface on this project but it is sooooo! much more fun and satisfying than going to work every day developing and writing software to analyze data from wind tunnel experiments! Oh ya writing software was great for 32 years but now I just want to build fun toys and leave the real work for the kids to do.

[TomCat58]

Some of the people who build amateur antennas use several sizes of tubing that fit snugly
together. You can find ads for some in a HAM magazine such as QST. Bruce Roe

I will have a look at ham antenna plans online.

Thank You

[bcroe]

Pipe inside pipe

Yes thank you for the conversion list. More then once I could be found wandering around in Home Depot trying to figure out what pipe fits inside another pipe etc. Tommy

Some of the people who build amateur antennas use several sizes of tubing that fit snugly
together. You can find ads for some in a HAM magazine such as QST. Bruce Roe

[dudevato]

ya, it worked. I just seem to keep getting smarter and smarter

[dudevato]

'turns out the pics need to be a much smaller size than mine are. I found how to down size the file size and will try posting one now. Highly technical and this info is copyrighted so if I find this idea out floating around some lake or water way I'll have to deal with you in a legal manner100_1766 - fix.JPG

[dudevato]

well heck, everyone is making progress on their motor boats. Turns out I'm 'on break' from working on mine. I came in the house to get a beer

I've tacked and now got the 2 supports 1/2 welded in place that will accept the 'outrigger tubes' I need a few strengthening supports tacked in place. When this is done I'll remove the 'panel framework' then finish welding everything.

I'm sure thinking when I have posted 10 posts the powers that be will let me post pics. I'm coming up on that number so we'll all find out.

[TomCat58]

Yes thank you for the conversion list. More then once I could be found wandering around in Home Depot trying to figure out what pipe fits inside another pipe etc. I am saving this list also I found there are some more options if you visit the electrical conduit pipe and fittings section too.

It almost feels like the beginning of spring here. Time to get the canoe in the water soon and test some new improvements ! I did some back and forth offers and got the actuator for $48 with free shipping

I figure out and even tried out a "shear point" on the arm that will be connected to the motor shaft. If the motor hits bottom, or I need to grab the steer handle a steer quickly it will break the shear point on the arm and free the Actuator from the motor shaft. When I get it all setup up I will post the setup.

Tommy

[dudevato]

wow, that's a lot of Info! I saved this page in my list of favorites. Thanks.

[SolarCanoe]

Off Topic But Relevent To Building Solar/Electric Powered Canoes & Boats

NOTE: This post will be under construction for some time, so whenever I make some additions I will post to the thread with a link back to this post.

Many of us are using PVC Pipe and fittings, aluminum pipe and tubing, and now some bicycle parts to build our Solar/Electric Powered Boats, so I thought I would pass on some things I have discovered regarding these materials, bicycle parts, how to machine them, and what parts fit together well. Please feel free to pass on anything you think is worth sharing and I will work it into this post for future reference.

ROUND MATERIALS & FITTINGS

I have only used round stock such as PVC pipe and aluminum tubing in my design and fabrication so far, but I will try to add some similar facts regarding square tubing and other types of materials. I know some of you have been using other materials like U-channel and angle stock so please share anything that you have discovered in your boat building efforts.

Pipe vs Tubing

The main difference between round tubing and pipe is the diameter that is used to specify the size. Pipe is specified by inside diameter while tubing is specified by outside diameter. I found a good reference for pipe dimensions on the The Engineering Toolbox website. You will see that pipe is described as Schedule 40 or 80. The difference is how much pressure the pipe can hold but that generally indicates strength and wall thickness. The outside diameter is constant between schedule 40 and 80 pipe otherwise you could not mix schedule 40 and 80 pipe and fittings. Schedule 40 PVC pipe and fitting are strong enough for most of our projects but if strength is a concern then go for schedule 80 fittings and pipe or use aluminum. Unfortunately I have not been able to find aluminum pipe fittings. Tubing is specified with outside diameter and wall thickness, such as

What Pipe and Tubing Fit Inside Each Other

Being able to slide one thing inside another allows for design features such as adjustable length members, adding strength and stiffness, and combining things that were not really meant to be used together. The following is a list of materials that should slide inside other materials { italics == tested }:

• 1/2" Aluminum Tubing loosely inside 1/2" Schedule 40 Pipe (ID 0.622")
• 1/2" Aluminum Tubing smoothly inside 1/2" Schedule 80 Pipe (ID 0.546")
• 1/2" Pipe (OD 0.840) smoothly inside 1" Aluminum Tubing from Home Depot
• 3/4" Aluminum Tubing loosely inside 3/4" Schedule 40 Pipe (ID 0.824)
• 1" Aluminum Tubing smoothly inside 1" Schedule 40 Pipe (ID 1.049)
• 1" Pipe (OD 1.315) smoothly inside 1.25" Schedule 40 Pipe (ID 1.380)
• 1.25" Aluminum Tubing loosely inside 1.25" Schedule 40 Pipe (ID 1.380)
• 1.25" Aluminum Tubing tightly inside 1.25" Schedule 80 Pipe (ID 1.278) {required sanding inside of pipe}
• 1.25" Aluminum Tubing loosely inside 1.25" Schedule 40 Pipe (ID 1.380)
• 1.5" Aluminum Tubing loosely inside 1.5" Schedule 40 Pipe (ID 1.610)
• 1.5" Aluminum Tubing possible press fit inside 1.5" Schedule 40 Pipe (ID 1.500)
• 1.5" Pipe (OD 1.900) loosely inside 2" Schedule 40 Pipe (ID 2.067)
• 1.5" Pipe (OD 1.900) snugly inside 2" Schedule 80 Pipe (ID 1.939)
• 2" Aluminum Tubing smoothly inside Schedule 40 Pipe (ID 2.067)
• 2" Pipe (OD 2.375) loosely inside 2.5" Schedule 40 Pipe (ID 2.469)
• 3" Aluminum Tubing loosely inside 3" Schedule 40 Pipe(ID 3.068)
• 2.5" Pipe (OD 2.875) snugly inside 3" Schedule 80 Pipe (ID 2.900)
• 4" Aluminum Tubing snugly inside 4" Schedule 40 Pipe(ID 4.026)

What Size Slip Fittings To Use With Aluminum Tubing Sizes

As I mentioned above, I have not been able to find any aluminum fittings. I have however used the PVC slip fittings quite successfully with aluminum tubing. Of course you cannot use the usual PVC cement so I have used stainless steel screws for joints I may need to break and 3/16" aluminum pop rivets for joints that I want to be permanent. { italics == tested }:

• 1/2" PVC Slip Fittings (ID 0.840): 3/4" Aluminum Tubing (slide through)
• 3/4" PVC Slip Fittings (ID 1.050): 1" Aluminum Tubing (slide through requires boring)
• 1" PVC Slip Fittings (ID 1.315): 1.25" Aluminum Tubing (slide through ?)

NOTE: Some of the tubing fits better if you shim it with some tape. I have used clear hockey tape with good results. I also have some 1" wide aluminum tape that I will use when I am working on what I think is a finished product. You could try some heat shrink tubing but tape gives you much better control over the thickness. If you want a really good tight fit then shim it so that it is difficult to push it more than half way into the fitting, then pull it out and moisten the fitting with some window cleaner. The window cleaner will lubricate the joint and allow you to push the tubing all the way in. The window cleaner works well because it evaporates quickly. This is trick I learned at a bike shop for getting rubber handlebar grips on or off.




Bicycle Components

I have discovered there are some bicycle components that can be used in conjunction with trolling motors, tubing and pipe.

Bicycle Headset

A bicycle headset is a set of bearings and cups that that connect the bicycle frame to the steering tube of the front forks. A fortunate coincidence is that a standard headset dimensions for a thread-less steering tube is 1 1/8" diameter which also happens to be the most common diameter of trolling motor shafts. It also turns out that bicycle headsets fit bicycle head tubes that are 34mm inside diameter. The inside diameter of a 1" pipe slip fitting happens to be 34mm, therefore a small amount of boring is required to seat the bearing cups into a 1" slip on pipe fitting. A schedule 80 fitting is stronger and would be my choice for this application. It should also be noted that the inside diameter of 1.25" pipe is also very close in size to the 34mm ID and would only require a small amount of boring to accommodate the 34mm bearing cups. A 1" long piece of 1.25" pipe cemented into a 1.25" slip fitting, schedule 40 or 80, would provide a very strong support for the headset and trolling motor attachment.

Bicycle Handlebar Stems

Again the coincidence that the most common trolling motor shaft diameter is 1 1/8" means that a standard bicycle handlebar stem will fit nicely on the shaft for attaching a steering linkage arm or even a set of bicycle handlebars for steering the boat. I have seen designs where the trolling motor is mounted through a hole in the bottom of the boat just in front of the captain. You could rig up a throttle like a motorcycle and have a brake lever that puts the motor in revers.

Bicycle Seat Tube Clamps

I discovered that bicycle seat tube clamps come is a wide variety of sizes and you can find them online under $5 each. Here is a list of sizes that could be very useful in conjunction with trolling motors, aluminum tubing, and pipe:

• 25.4mm = 1.000": 1" Aluminum Tubing, 3/4" Pipe (OD 1.050")
• 27.2mm = 1.071": 3/4" Pipe (OD 1.050")
• 28.6mm = 1.126": Trolling Motor Shaft
• 31.8mm = 1.252": 1.25" Aluminum Tubing
• 34.9mm = 1.374": 1" Pipe (OD 1.315) ?