My First Solar Powered Boat Project

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  • ILFE
    replied
    Originally posted by TomCat58
    I think you will love it... battery status at a glance and its water proof too
    Not exactly, according to the review on that unit:
    This product works great for the most part. But its supposed to be waterproof and yet I have moisture inside the screen. Make's it very difficult to read. That's what disappoints me about this product...

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  • TomCat58
    replied
    [QUOTE=SolarCanoe;122077]
    Originally posted by TomCat58

    That Vexilar Battery Status Gauge was too tempting to resist so I ordered one to try.

    Some time back I also ordered the sonar phone but it will be a while before I can play with that.
    I think you will love it... battery status at a glance and its water proof too

    Tommy

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  • SolarCanoe
    replied
    [QUOTE=TomCat58;121929]
    Originally posted by SolarCanoe
    Instead of reading my voltage to see how much charge is left in my batteries I am testing this quick glance meter. So far its a keeper Reading voltage makes me have to think were this is a no brainer lol


    http://www.cabelas.com/product/VEXIL...3725369&rid=20
    That Vexilar Battery Status Gauge was too tempting to resist so I ordered one to try.

    Some time back I also ordered the sonar phone but it will be a while before I can play with that.

    Leave a comment:


  • TomCat58
    replied
    [QUOTE=SolarCanoe;121887]I did a quick bench test to make sure I had wired my control panel properly.

    Under these conditions I adjusted the speed of the motor so that there was no current flowing in or out of the battery. That setting was between 25 and 50% throttle.
    If you zoom in on the meters you will see that the battery voltage is just under 13v and the current is zero. The motor ammeter shows 4A going to the motor.

    At that throttle setting the canoe moves along at speed between 1 and 2 mph. That speed is fine with me, I'm retired and in no hurry to get anywhere.[QUOTE

    Yep that works I just got more carried away with meters and gauges LOL. Here is another interesting water proof gauge I use along side my 2 digital amp meters.

    Instead of reading my voltage to see how much charge is left in my batteries I am testing this quick glance meter. So far its a keeper Reading voltage makes me have to think were this is a no brainer lol


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  • SolarCanoe
    replied
    Bench Test

    I did a quick bench test to make sure I had wired my control panel properly.

    IMG_0448_1080p.jpg

    The trolling motor is in water, and the solar panels are exposed to direct sunlight.

    IMG_0449_1080p.jpgIMG_0452_1080p.jpg
    Note: I put screen protectors on the panels and used a bit of window cleaner to position them properly.
    The bubbles you see on the solar panels are the window cleaner, which I hope will dry out given a little time.


    Under these conditions I adjusted the speed of the motor so that there was no current flowing in or out of the battery. That setting was between 25 and 50% throttle.

    IMG_0451_1080p.jpgIMG_0450_1080p.jpg

    If you zoom in on the meters you will see that the battery voltage is just under 13v and the current is zero. The motor ammeter shows 4A going to the motor.

    At that throttle setting the canoe moves along at speed between 1 and 2 mph. That speed is fine with me, I'm retired and in no hurry to get anywhere.

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  • TomCat58
    replied
    [QUOTE=SolarCanoe;121809]The boat moved along at a good rate. I used a GPS speedometer and it indicated 3mph top speed. I can't remember if that was against the wind or not. I don't seem to be getting more than about an hour out of the batteries running at 50% throttle. Without the meters it's hard to say what is going on.

    Cool Yes there is no way to tell what is happening without the amp gauges hooked up. 90% of the time on the water I use what I produce. How much sun you have and at what angle to the sun makes a big difference.

    Once the amp gauges are in place then you can start dealing with many issues. What size Max Endura Minn Kota do you have ??? I have to 45 lb thrust model and I find 50 to 60 percent throttle works best. Anymore throttle then that sucks the amps big time but does not produce much increased speed.

    I also wired my electrical system so I can double check my gauges and also check the amps produced right after they leave the solar panels. I also can check how many amps go to the batteries from the Charge Controller. Amps produced and amps actually charging your batteries can be very different. I did a test on a older 30 amp controller I have and found when 15 amps where coming into the control from the solar panels only 8.6 amps were coming out of the controller to the batteries.

    With my new controller its 15 amps in and 14.2 amps going out to the batteries. The below pictures is my inline amp gauge I am using to double check my amp meters on my dash as well as get those other readings like real charging amps.... I do have to have my prop in a drum of water or in the water to get good readings. I might have 15 amps available from the solar panels but until I put a draw on the motor it won't read correctly. Example is: I am drawing 5 amps and the solar amps show 6 amps being produced. I then throttle up to 10 amps and now the gauge shows I am producing 11 amps.

    Anyway I could go on and on with this subject BUT first things first is having your input and output gauges calibrated and functioning. If you have any questions ? Fire away



    P9030059.JPGP9030060.JPG

    Tommy

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  • inetdog
    replied
    Originally posted by SolarCanoe
    The over-discharge voltage is 11.1V and is not adjustable. At what voltage should I stop discharging SLA batteries?
    Well, the first problem is that the CC can only see the battery voltage under load and so cannot tell what the real SOC is as the load varies.

    Check out the information here: http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/a...tate_of_charge
    And note that these are resting (no charge or discharge for hours) voltages.
    For a resting voltage, even 12.0 volts is too low (~25% SOC). Stopping at 50%, except in an emergency, would be a resting voltage point of 12.25V. You can get some idea of the relationship between voltage under load and SOC for your particular batteries by:
    1. Let the batteries rest to find approximate real SOC. Note the voltage, then put on a reasonable load for a short time and watch the voltage. Make a table of loaded voltage versus load current versus resting voltage.
    2. Do the same for charging current.

    You may find that 11.1V under motor load corresponds to 12.0V or higher resting voltage.
    But the SG method and keeping track of current in and out are both more reliable (the first for long term, the second for short term evaluation.)

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  • Lorin
    replied
    such a wonderful job man. congratulations!

    Leave a comment:


  • SolarCanoe
    replied
    Originally posted by TomCat58
    How did it do on the water? What brand and model Charge Controller are you using on this canoe ?

    Tommy
    The boat moved along at a good rate. I used a GPS speedometer and it indicated 3mph top speed. I can't remember if that was against the wind or not. I don't seem to be getting more than about an hour out of the batteries running at 50% throttle. Without the meters it's hard to say what is going on. The four batteries together should be about 150Ah. I'm not sure I like the Minn Kota Max motor control. There is a lot of pulsing and vibration at lower speeds. I have a second Traxxis motor that I will try just to see if it is that particular motor or common to the Minn Kota Max technology.

    The Solar Charge Controller came with the folding solar panels. It is 20Amp 12/24V and Waterproof. I attached the specs and instructions. Each folding solar panel is 100W.

    The canopy works OK but needs to be raised a few inches and possibly extended forward to cover the passenger better. I was surprised how little the wind seemed to bother the canoe with this rather large canopy on it.

    So far I am quite encouraged and my wife really likes the boat. Like me, she likes that it is quiet and is happy with the speed that it moves through the water. I tried to ensure that we could stow the motor and paddle the canoe normally but we have not tried that yet.
    Attached Files

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  • TomCat58
    replied
    Originally posted by SolarCanoe
    Well I finally put my solar boat in the water. I haven't had a chance to get any videos yet but I did take a couple of photos:

    The meter on the right indicates the current drawn by the trolling motor. The relay (60A) and the switch are to disconnect the trolling motor. The power for the relay is from the load connection on the charge controller.

    How did it do on the water? What brand and model Charge Controller are you using on this canoe ?

    Tommy
    Last edited by inetdog; 09-04-2014, 03:35 AM. Reason: fixed quote tag

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  • SolarCanoe
    replied
    Originally posted by Mike90250
    You may need an "anti-kickback" diode across the relay coil to keep from frying the charge controller when the relay releases.
    OK I now have a diode to put across the relay coil. Thanks for pointing that out I would not have known to do it.

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  • Mike90250
    replied
    The relay (60A) and the switch are to disconnect the trolling motor. The power for the relay is from the load connection on the charge controller.
    You may need an "anti-kickback" diode across the relay coil to keep from frying the charge controller when the relay releases.

    Leave a comment:


  • SolarCanoe
    replied
    Originally posted by inetdog
    The low voltage cutoff of the LOAD terminals of the CC is often too low for good battery life. On some units it is adjustable, on others you are stuck with the factory value.
    The over-discharge voltage is 11.1V and is not adjustable. At what voltage should I stop discharging SLA batteries?

    Leave a comment:


  • inetdog
    replied
    Originally posted by SolarCanoe
    The relay (60A) and the switch are to disconnect the trolling motor. The power for the relay is from the load connection on the charge controller. This will allow the charge controller to disconnect the power to the trolling motor if the battery is being over-discharged (I hope). Otherwise I will have to keep an eye on the battery voltage and turn off the motor if the voltage drops to 11V turn it off.
    The low voltage cutoff of the LOAD terminals of the CC is often too low for good battery life. On some units it is adjustable, on others you are stuck with the factory value.

    Leave a comment:


  • SolarCanoe
    replied
    Well I finally put my solar boat in the water. I haven't had a chance to get any videos yet but I did take a couple of photos:

    IMG_0430_1080p.jpgIMG_0431_1080p.jpgIMG_0435_1080p.jpgIMG_0436_1080p.jpg

    We even had some spectators

    IMG_0437_1080p.jpg

    We're home for a couple of days so I will try to get my control panel wired up. At the moment I have no idea what is happening with the battery until the trolling motor starts to slow down significantly.

    IMG_0444_1080p.jpgIMG_0446_1080p.jpg

    The two meters on the left indicate battery voltage and current. If the battery current is positive it means the battery is being charged. A negative current indicates that current is being drained from the battery. The meter on the right indicates the current drawn by the trolling motor. The relay (60A) and the switch are to disconnect the trolling motor. The power for the relay is from the load connection on the charge controller. This will allow the charge controller to disconnect the power to the trolling motor if the battery is being over-discharged (I hope). Otherwise I will have to keep an eye on the battery voltage and turn off the motor if the voltage drops to 11V turn it off.

    Leave a comment:

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