My First Solar Powered Boat Project

[SolarCanoe]

Linear Actuator Have Arrived

I received the linear actuators the other day. The 32" ones for the retractable outriggers were very slow at 10mm/sec. I contacted the supplier and ordered another pair that are 24mm/sec. I mentioned this to a coworker and he suggested I use the slow ones to make the height of the canopy variable. He pointed out that if we lowered the canopy once in the canoe that would lower the center of gravity. So I put on my thinking cap and came up with a design that I think will work well. It will allow me to have the canopy as low as 3 ft above the canoe to almost 6 ft. My design will also allow me to tilt the canopy front to back. This will allow me to get more direct sunlight on the solar panel when traveling North or South.

Out of curiosity I did some hunting online and found that Scott Canoes make a 20 ft canoe. I also found there is a company in my home town of London Ontario that makes an 18 ft prospector canoe. So if this works out well but we find it a little cramped in the 16 ft Prospector Canoe we have some options for the future.

I hope to get started on the canopy construction soon. I'm running a little short on funds right now but I should be able to scrape together enough to buy some of the aluminum tubing I need to get started. I think the only big expense left now will be the batteries. I understand that if putting two batteries in parallel it is best to get two of the same batteries and get them at the same time. I'll keep an eye out for sales and hopefully I can get two batteries for a reasonable price.

There is no shortage of electric boat manufacturers on the net. I found a site with a 19' electric canoe for sale. I don't think my first effort will be quite that elegant but I'll try to make it look nice as well as be functional.

[SolarCanoe]

I just woke up and realized that the only way the LED test light will work is with a switch. If the panel is connected in an array of panels the LED would be on even if the panel went open, because the LED would still see the other panels in the array. I would need a switch on each panel that can disconnect it from the array so that the LED is only connected across that panel's output terminals.

I will have to give this idea some more thought.

[OregonSolar]

These are 20V LEDs used in model train projects.

Heck, that's even a good deal. I'm in to models a little; i might use these for a small town powered by a 24volt power supply.

Sure, just put'em on the solar panels. The draw is low enough that it won't matter.

[SolarCanoe]

You have 20V leds? I'd like to know where you got those.

These are 20V LEDs used in model train projects.

[OregonSolar]

I received the 20V LEDs and tried one across one of the solar panels. Even in a room with low light it lit up the LED quite bright. I was quite surprised because I have not even pulled the protective blue plastic sheeting off the panel yet.

As I mentioned in a previous post, I plan to mount an LED on the underside of each panel so that I can see that they are working. That means the LED will be soldered across the solar panel terminals. I realize that the LED will be drawing about 50mA or less but that seems like an insignificant amount of current. I could always mount a tiny momentary push button switch to only connect the LED when I want to check the panel. If I don't put in the switch the LED will probably bet lit most of the time.

What do you guys think of the idea of connecting the LED across the solar panel terminals? Do think I need to bother with the push button?

The push button probably isn't necessary, but make sure there's a resistor in that loop. A 3volt LED running on a 12 Volt solar panel will fry an about 30sec of operation.

Of course, as long as there is a proper resistor in there it should be fine. An LED conservatively rated at a 50,000 hour life running 5 hrs a day will only theoretically burn out in 25 years or more. Your batteries will literally be anchors, the canoe will have many holes in it and even the solar panel will be beginning to wear out. So, to heck with the button. Who cares?

EDIT: You have 20V leds? I'd like to know where you got those.

[SolarCanoe]

I received the 20V LEDs and tried one across one of the solar panels. Even in a room with low light it lit up the LED quite bright. I was quite surprised because I have not even pulled the protective blue plastic sheeting off the panel yet.

As I mentioned in a previous post, I plan to mount an LED on the underside of each panel so that I can see that they are working. That means the LED will be soldered across the solar panel terminals. I realize that the LED will be drawing about 50mA or less but that seems like an insignificant amount of current. I could always mount a tiny momentary push button switch to only connect the LED when I want to check the panel. If I don't put in the switch the LED will probably bet lit most of the time.

What do you guys think of the idea of connecting the LED across the solar panel terminals? Do think I need to bother with the push button?

[TomCat58]

I often wonder about outrigger canoes that seem to just have a rail for the pontoon part. I guess the buoyancy of the outrigger is not that critical.

Given that I have employed 3 2/3 jumbo water noodles for each pontoon, I am thinking I built something more like a trimaran. Given the buoyancy of these pontoons I am thinking I may be able to add some small platforms over the outrigger arms. Nothing really big, just wide enough so that we could come along side of a dock with the pontoons retracted and be able to step on these platforms to get in and out of the canoe. I'll have to wait until next year to try out these new pontoons and see exactly how much buoyancy they have. One jumbo noodle is rated for 250 lb, but that is just to keep a 250 lb person from sinking. It's so frustrating that summer is over and what I can do to further this project is limited. I can work on the solar panel canopy and that is about it until spring.

I am close to Canada. Around the Idaho and Washington border. If the water is not frozen ice and the sun is shining then its a possible boating day. Where are you at ? I should have my revamped canoe up and ready to try out in the first week of November. I have to see how the weather is by then. I will post a few pictures when I get it back in the water for some fine tuning

TomCat58

[SolarCanoe]

I often wonder about outrigger canoes that seem to just have a rail for the pontoon part. I guess the buoyancy of the outrigger is not that critical.

Given that I have employed 3 2/3 jumbo water noodles for each pontoon, I am thinking I built something more like a trimaran. Given the buoyancy of these pontoons I am thinking I may be able to add some small platforms over the outrigger arms. Nothing really big, just wide enough so that we could come along side of a dock with the pontoons retracted and be able to step on these platforms to get in and out of the canoe. I'll have to wait until next year to try out these new pontoons and see exactly how much buoyancy they have. One jumbo noodle is rated for 250 lb, but that is just to keep a 250 lb person from sinking. It's so frustrating that summer is over and what I can do to further this project is limited. I can work on the solar panel canopy and that is about it until spring.

[TomCat58]

Sounds like you are going to build a house boat. There are a number of designs and sizes that work well with solar and provides a stable platform as well as comfort. I'm looking forward to seeing pictures of your new boat.

I guess I better look closer. That link has "edit" in the link. I was trying to show more of the outriggers and less of unrelated sections of the video. I just cut the video down shorter with a shot of the outriggers in action. Sorry for the mistake, Let me try this again. Baka or pump boats is what there called. Making it powered by solar powered is the challenge

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pump_boat

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iDyNFgsnQmo

TomCat

[SunEagle]

I was hoping to get some new post with updates on your project ???? Ok I will be patient

I learned a few things about my solar canoe on my 5 day trip down part of the Northern part Of the Mighty Columbia River. The weather can be perfect and then in mire minutes white caps and extreme winds. I got off the river and camped when the conditions got bad. But it has occurred that what would happen if there is no place to land fast enough? What happens if there are cliffs on both sides with no place to safely land?

As we talk about pontoon design and how well it will work ? It takes me back to how I decided to use pontoons in the first place. I was in a place far away that the very use of such crafts were a common way of life for transportation and fish for food to keep food on the table.

I have torn my canoe completely apart and decided it is stupid of me to recreate the wheel so to speak. I have reviewed hundreds of my perosonal stored away videos and study them well. The plans are drawn and now I have started from scratch. This time I will build it as if my life depends on it in rough water and high winds. I will build it so I can use it if necessary to fish and hunt from and not just a day dream 5 days down a river.

I hope other share their knowledge on the subject and help me and solar canoe build 2 assume boats.

I will share a few videos from time to time and look for observations on design of the boats in my video's. This one is me and my two friends (Main and CC) travel around the Visayan island located in the Central Philippines for several weeks. Home to over 7,200 island. We are leaving on the only type of boat available in these parts. We are pulling away from Malapacua island and headed to the Northern tip of Cebu Island and the town of Maya. Hope you enjoy !

There are many more the a 100,000 of boats like this there.

http://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&ns=1&video_id=iDyNFgsnQmo

TomCat58

Sounds like you are going to build a house boat. There are a number of designs and sizes that work well with solar and provides a stable platform as well as comfort. I'm looking forward to seeing pictures of your new boat.

[russ]

The link does not work properly. I get a message like " You must create a channel to upload videos."

Same here

[SolarCanoe]

The link does not work properly. I get a message like " You must create a channel to upload videos."

[TomCat58]

I would hope with the outriggers that turning the boat over would be pretty difficult. I suppose it would be possible to get swamped though. Most of the electrical stuff will be mounted in a console that sits above the gunwales so even if swamped I would hope they would not be submerged. I think I will follow TomCat58's example and mount the solar charge controller up under the canopy, so it would be well above any water if swamped. I will try to mount the solar charge controller in some sort of waterproof container but the heat sink has to be in free air so that may not be possible.

The switches I have ordered have waterproof boots on them to keep splashed water out of the toggle side of them. The meter movements unfortunately have that zeroing screw on the front. Splashed water could get into the movement that way. If I put a petri dish over the meter that will keep any splashed water off the front of them.

I was hoping to get some new post with updates on your project ???? Ok I will be patient

I learned a few things about my solar canoe on my 5 day trip down part of the Northern part Of the Mighty Columbia River. The weather can be perfect and then in mire minutes white caps and extreme winds. I got off the river and camped when the conditions got bad. But it has occurred that what would happen if there is no place to land fast enough? What happens if there are cliffs on both sides with no place to safely land?

As we talk about pontoon design and how well it will work ? It takes me back to how I decided to use pontoons in the first place. I was in a place far away that the very use of such crafts were a common way of life for transportation and fish for food to keep food on the table.

I have torn my canoe completely apart and decided it is stupid of me to recreate the wheel so to speak. I have reviewed hundreds of my perosonal stored away videos and study them well. The plans are drawn and now I have started from scratch. This time I will build it as if my life depends on it in rough water and high winds. I will build it so I can use it if necessary to fish and hunt from and not just a day dream 5 days down a river.

I hope other share their knowledge on the subject and help me and solar canoe build 2 assume boats.

I will share a few videos from time to time and look for observations on design of the boats in my video's. This one is me and my two friends (Main and CC) travel around the Visayan island located in the Central Philippines for several weeks. Home to over 7,200 island. We are leaving on the only type of boat available in these parts. We are pulling away from Malapacua island and headed to the Northern tip of Cebu Island and the town of Maya. Hope you enjoy !

There are many more the a 100,000 of boats like this there.

http://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&ns=1&video_id=iDyNFgsnQmo

TomCat58

[SolarCanoe]

Gauges made for marine applications will be rain tight from the face.
Turn the boat turtle however and all bets are off.

I would hope with the outriggers that turning the boat over would be pretty difficult. I suppose it would be possible to get swamped though. Most of the electrical stuff will be mounted in a console that sits above the gunwales so even if swamped I would hope they would not be submerged. I think I will follow TomCat58's example and mount the solar charge controller up under the canopy, so it would be well above any water if swamped. I will try to mount the solar charge controller in some sort of waterproof container but the heat sink has to be in free air so that may not be possible.

The switches I have ordered have waterproof boots on them to keep splashed water out of the toggle side of them. The meter movements unfortunately have that zeroing screw on the front. Splashed water could get into the movement that way. If I put a petri dish over the meter that will keep any splashed water off the front of them.

[Naptown]

Gauges made for marine applications will be rain tight from the face.
Turn the boat turtle however and all bets are off.
There is a standard for waterproof to a certain depth for a certain amount of time but the standard number eludes me at the moment
Perhaps a search of NMEA standards would bring something up