Battery string isolation

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  • -robw-
    Member
    • Sep 2019
    • 69
    #1

    Battery string isolation

    Solar System.png
    What I'm wanting to do is to isolate each of of my 2 battery strings on a Perko switch to ease monthly~ equalization of each string. Is there any downside to what my drawing proposes?
    Tags: None
    • Mike90250
      Moderator
      • May 2009
      • 16020
      #2
      You better find out if that switch is Make-Before-Break or Break-Before-Make. Break-before-make stands a good chance of glitching your inverter & charge controller.
      Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
      || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
      || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

      solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
      gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

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        • -robw-
          Member
          • Sep 2019
          • 69
          #3
          I would shut both down before switching, but "Always STOP engines before switching to "OFF" position. Make-Before-Break feature allows switching between 1-all-2 positions with running engines"
          https://www.perko.com/images/catalog/pdf/Fig%208511-8512%20Inst.pdf

            Comment

            • inetdog
              Super Moderator
              • May 2012
              • 9909
              #4
              Remember that some CCs will not reboot after battery loss unless the PV input is turned off first so that the battery is the first voltage the CC sees.
              SunnyBoy 3000 US, 18 BP Solar 175B panels.

                Comment

                • -robw-
                  Member
                  • Sep 2019
                  • 69
                  #5
                  Originally posted by Mike90250
                  You better find out if that switch is Make-Before-Break or Break-Before-Make. Break-before-make stands a good chance of glitching your inverter & charge controller.
                  Yesterday I witnessed where you are coming from. I mistakenly switched the Perko switch to off while testing system, and fried it once I switched it on to a battery source while CC's were supplying current. *SPARK*, that sucked. Luckily I had another on hand and the 1st thing I did after reconnecting everything was write "TURN OFF POWERS 1ST" up top.

                  Hopefully I'll read that in future!

                  Other notes:
                  Bad start with Magnum MS4448PAE. Manual indicates it needs just 5w to kick in but a more than 5w AC fan would not. I think instead, Magnum means 5w continuous but more to actually kick in. Since energy output on this system will often drop to zero I'm now in need of a 48v battery box fan.

                  Should have stuck with 2 Classics instead. I'm now aware that there's no way to set or communicate with FM80's until a $300 mate is added. Seems Outback went out of their way to force this add-on charge, and that's bad business if not made clear upfront.

                  Sunking's https://www.solarpaneltalk.com/forum...your-batteries got a thumbs up from a Crown engineer, although he suggested doing it in reverse, ie, follow battery specs first and then adjust bulk, absorb and float UP until refractometer/hydrometer is happy. That way batteries won't get stressed. Fantastic sticky, nonetheless.

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