Best places to buy LiFePO4 batteries??

[Mike90250]

Aren't there ways to put these protections in place automatically, don't people have set ups that will cut off charging/discharging automatically at certain points? How do people do that?

That is the job of the charge controller, better ones will have programmable setpoints.

Are you implying that there are some disadvantages to a packaged system, or are you just talking about being OK with the added cost of a packaged system?

Sunking will have to answer this one. I don't know .

From what i've read it sounds like use MTTP or go home. And i read a sizing thread that suggests that i should use a 2000 watt inverter with 24V, however i still don't know what the MTTP equivelent is for inverters, is there a certain one you'd suggest?

To limit the amount of current the inverter will pull from the batteries, 1000 watts per 12V increment, is a reasonable scale factor.
1Kw @ 12V = 90A (there are some inverter losses) Trying to wrangle more than 90 amps gets pretty tough.
2Kw @ 24V = 90A
No 36V gear made, it's an orphan voltage.
4Kw @ 48V = 90A

I would charge this with regular AC from my wall, or from my Honda inverter generator, or from solar panels. Is there a certain spec to look for in an MTTP charger to make sure it handles both grid AC and panels? I really appreciate all the great help thank you!

No, MPPT is a method of electronically tracking the PV panels minute by minute response to solar & cloud conditions to get the most possible power from them. (Mult Point Power Tracking). For your Grid or Generator powered charger, Look for efficiency and Power Factor (PF). 90% of the time, you will use the PV to recharge your bank, but in bad weather, you use the generator to Bulk charge them in the AM, and hope there is enough sun to top them off, otherwise, you run another bulk cycle in the evening. The Bulk portion of the charge, puts a lot of power into the batteries in a short time, maximizing your fuel usage.

If you have Grid power, you do not want a battery based system, unless you have thousands of dollars to replace batteries every couple of years with, a simple Grid Tie system is better if you have reliable grid power.

[LiFePO4_Only]

Just be sure to follow Jack's strict instructions to never charge at higher than 14.4 volts, or allow it to ever see 10 volts.

Aren't there ways to put these protections in place automatically, don't people have set ups that will cut off charging/discharging automatically at certain points? How do people do that?

If you are OK with the convenience of a packaged system, go for it.

Are you implying that there are some disadvantages to a packaged system, or are you just talking about being OK with the added cost of a packaged system?

Don't cheap out on a charger. At $8000 worth of batteries last thing you want is to destroy them with a cheap charger. How do you intend to charge them? If from commercial power use a good quality CC/CV PFC charger. Jack has them, not sure about 24 volts.

From what i've read it sounds like use MTTP or go home. And i read a sizing thread that suggests that i should use a 2000 watt inverter with 24V, however i still don't know what the MTTP equivelent is for inverters, is there a certain one you'd suggest?

I would charge this with regular AC from my wall, or from my Honda inverter generator, or from solar panels. Is there a certain spec to look for in an MTTP charger to make sure it handles both grid AC and panels? I really appreciate all the great help thank you!

[Sunking]

Well forget that idea it says do not use in series.

http://store.evtv.me/proddetail.php?prod=milspec12400&cat=10

Why?? Can i wire 2 of them in parallel then? I don't get it i thought wiring in series was very preferred and safe? Damn it 2 military durable batteries would of looked so bad ass!!

Because they are matched cells Bottom Balanced and no way to access the individual cells for balancing. Call Jack if you want a 24 volt revision he will make you one. He will sell you two of the same modules matched up. Without the cells properly Bottom Balanced, you run a high risk of over discharging one of the two packs.

Better yet build one yourself at almost half the cost. But do your homework before attempting. LFP batteries are not for inexperienced people and novice users.

[Sunking]

On one of your links i started eyeing up this battery,

http://store.evtv.me/proddetail.php?prod=milspec12400&cat=10

Do you think it would be a good idea (basically a good economical move vs other batteries) for me to buy 2 of these and wire them in series and have a 24 volt system? I gotta say that i'm attracted to the military grade durability of them!!

If it fits your needs go for it. It is a Bottom Balanced battery package from Jack. The cells are matched then Bottom Balanced so no BMS is required, nor could one be used. Just be sure to follow Jack's strict instructions to never charge at higher than 14.4 volts, or allow it to ever see 10 volts.

The only down side is the expense as you are paying a premium for matched cells, Bottom Balanced, and Assembled in a 12 volt package. You are paying 78-cents per watt hour vs 45 cents buying the cells yourself and doing the work. If you are OK with the convenience of a packaged system, go for it. Jack's is a good small businessman and stands behind his products. It is where DIY EV builders buy their batteries and chargers.

Don't cheap out on a charger. At $8000 worth of batteries last thing you want is to destroy them with a cheap charger. How do you intend to charge them? If from commercial power use a good quality CC/CV PFC charger. Jack has them, not sure about 24 volts.

[LiFePO4_Only]

...Accidental double post

[LiFePO4_Only]

CALB is the best of the Chi-Coms and they can be purchased from EV Parts companies.

EV Souce
EV Power
Electric Car Parts Company
EV Motor Verks This is where most DIY and Custom EV shops buy theirs from including me.

All of them sell most manufactures brands. Be careful with Winston as they are going to go bankrupt soon.

On one of your links i started eyeing up this battery,

http://store.evtv.me/proddetail.php?prod=milspec12400&cat=10

Do you think it would be a good idea (basically a good economical move vs other batteries) for me to buy 2 of these and wire them in series and have a 24 volt system? I gotta say that i'm attracted to the military grade durability of them!!



EDIT...
Well forget that idea it says do not use in series.

http://store.evtv.me/proddetail.php?prod=milspec12400&cat=10

Why?? Can i wire 2 of them in parallel then? I don't get it i thought wiring in series was very preferred and safe? Damn it 2 military durable batteries would of looked so bad ass!!

[Willy T]

You did that all by yourself and got caught red handed. I just spotted it. You did not think anyone would notice. Not my fault you cannot remember your lies. That is how liars get caught. Here is your Sign, you earned it, now wear it proudly.

Are you stupid enough to keep bringing it up? Pull a Hilary, just ignore the lies you told and maybe it will go away.

Thats your second lie in two posts. How does this look to you ??

ScreenHunter_1017.jpg

End of the day

ScreenHunter_002.jpg

[Sunking]

This wasn't maybe someone else is using your name to call people names and make accusations.

You did that all by yourself and got caught red handed. I just spotted it. You did not think anyone would notice. Not my fault you cannot remember your lies. That is how liars get caught. Here is your Sign, you earned it, now wear it proudly.

Are you stupid enough to keep bringing it up? Pull a Hilary, just ignore the lies you told and maybe it will go away.

[Willy T]

I did not call you a liar. You made yourself out to be a liar caught red handed. If you can find Winston's that cheap then that is the liquidation fire sale. Winston battery was born to make batteries for a Fisker Karma to compete with Tesla. Of the failed Thundersky where Winston, Sinopoly and CALB come from , CALB is the only one showing a profit.

This wasn't you ??, Maybe someone else is using your name to call people names and make accusations.

Busted dude. You got caught in a big fat lie. You cannot keep up with your lies. In another thread you made and is a direct quote from you:

You are so busted and a liar.

[Sunking]

No, I am a Liar according to you. Why would you believe anything I post. A picture is worth 1000 words. Maybe I photo shopped it, maybe I didn't.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]6740[/ATTACH]

I did not call you a liar. You made yourself out to be a liar caught red handed. If you can find Winston's that cheap then that is the liquidation fire sale. Winston battery was born to make batteries for a Fisker Karma to compete with Tesla. Of the failed Thundersky where Winston, Sinopoly and CALB come from , CALB is the only one showing a profit.

[Willy T]

Well if what you say is true that you can buy 260 AH Winston cells for $260 is the Fire Sale liquidation price. That is 31-cents per watt hour. CALB is one of the least expensive ones out there and they go for 44 to 46-cents per watt hour.

No, I am a Liar according to you. Why would you believe anything I post. A picture is worth 1000 words. Maybe I photo shopped it, maybe I didn't.

ScreenHunter_1014.jpg

[Sunking]

Awesome thanks a lot!!

Let me get this straight, a LiFePO4 is a LiFePO4 period. Is that true? I've been looking at the AH and Volts and price pretty much...for some reason I get nervous when I come across LiFePO4 'Car' batteries. Is there a certain spec that I better make damn sure I look at in order for it to be for solar? Or are all LiFePO4s good for solar, cars, etc? Thanks

LifeP04 (aka LFP for short) are NOT created equal. There are quality made LFP like A123 Systems Nano-phosphate cylindrical cells that cost $2/wh that have high discharge rates up to 10C. There is Enerdel that make high quality Large Format Prismatice cells for around $1/wh, and then there are the low quality Chi-Com Prismatic Large Format cells that cost 44 to 46 cents per wh. You get what you pay for.

Other than Chevy Volt there are no commercial EV's that use LFP cells because of Low Energy Densities. A LFP cell energy density is on the range of 80 to 100 wh/Kg, where say Lithium Cobalt varieties go up to 240 wh/Kg.

a DIY EV pretty much exclusively use Chi-Com Prismatic LFP cells because it is the only cells they can afford. They have to sacrifice range and some performance. Some are fortunate enough to find salvaged or factory reject EV batteries. There are a lot of Nissan Leaf batteries on the Salvage market. The first two or three production years Nissan discovered a heat issue problem with their batteries and had to change. They had 10's of thousands they salvaged as rejects, and those batteries went to re-sellers who bought them for a song and were selling individual modules for 25-cents per wh. Then there are also the wrecked EV in salvage yards. Just about every salvage yard has a waiting list for EV batteries. Get in line.

However for Solar Energy Density is not important, long cycle life and cost is the most important. That is where LFP batteries shine in the lithium world as they are the longest lasting, safest, and least expensive of al the Lithium types out there. You would not want to use a lithium battery made for an EV in your house that requires liquid cooling and a expensive BMS to keep it from catching fire.

[Sunking]

I hope they go quickly so I can buy some cells cheap.

Well if what you say is true that you can buy 260 AH Winston cells for $260 is the Fire Sale liquidation price. That is 31-cents per watt hour. CALB is one of the least expensive ones out there and they go for 44 to 46-cents per watt hour.

[Willy T]

Be careful with Winston as they are going to go bankrupt soon.

Post the source or more from your crystal ball ?? I hope they go quickly so I can buy some cells cheap.

Jun 10, 2013 - Battery maker Exide Technologies filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection early Monday.

[LiFePO4_Only]

Awesome thanks a lot!!

Let me get this straight, a LiFePO4 is a LiFePO4 period. Is that true? I've been looking at the AH and Volts and price pretty much...for some reason I get nervous when I come across LiFePO4 'Car' batteries. Is there a certain spec that I better make damn sure I look at in order for it to be for solar? Or are all LiFePO4s good for solar, cars, etc? Thanks