Hello everyone,
I am new to the forum as well as solar. I did a bit of research on the internet and finally installed solar on the roof of my RV. Some photos here https://photos.app.goo.gl/WFgvzziudcTLUvNGA (if this link doesn't work I will upload them elsewhere). If there is anything that doesn't make sense, please let me know!
I only use the solar to top up my battery bank and I use the inverter to charge my e-bike and laptop. I am not interested in running TVs, microwaves, A/C units or anything large for now.
My RV runs on 12V and I don't have the budget to upgrade the battery bank, nor am I comfortable in converting the whole thing to 24V or 48V even though I understand this is a more efficient method of solar collection.
(Battery bank looks like a mess, I have a shut off switch, quick connect for a NOCO trickle charger as well as the electric jack and house power all connected. I may need to clean this all up...)
System has:
2x 6V Rolls Battery 6 FS GC-HC https://www.rollsbattery.com/battery/6-fs-gc-hc/
2x 100W Renogy panels https://www.renogy.com/100-watt-12-v...gn-back-order/
300 watt inverter (i had this kicking around) with a power bar plugged in to power small 120V items
30A Renogy Wanderer PWM controller https://www.renogy.com/wanderer-li-3...ge-controller/
30A fuse between controller and battery
200A fuse at the battery before the inverter
My plan was to upgrade to a 40A MPPT Rover from Renogy and add two more 100 watt panels in parallel with the first two to have 400 watts of 12V solar.
A few questions.... If I apply the math of total panel wattage divided by battery voltage equals system amps times 1.25, then I am at 41.67A (400/12*1.25=41.67) - is this OK? Or should I go to a 60A controller? Or is this math completely wrong???
If I am only connecting straight to the battery and not connecting to the controller's load outputs, can I use a positive ground controller to save a few bucks or is this foolish?
Would it be smart to add two panels at the back of the roof in series/parallel? It is my understanding that this can maximise solar collection if the back is sunny and the front is shaded - I may be mistaken though.
I hope this is enough information to answer my questions!
Thanks for any input, much appreciated
James
I am new to the forum as well as solar. I did a bit of research on the internet and finally installed solar on the roof of my RV. Some photos here https://photos.app.goo.gl/WFgvzziudcTLUvNGA (if this link doesn't work I will upload them elsewhere). If there is anything that doesn't make sense, please let me know!
I only use the solar to top up my battery bank and I use the inverter to charge my e-bike and laptop. I am not interested in running TVs, microwaves, A/C units or anything large for now.
My RV runs on 12V and I don't have the budget to upgrade the battery bank, nor am I comfortable in converting the whole thing to 24V or 48V even though I understand this is a more efficient method of solar collection.
(Battery bank looks like a mess, I have a shut off switch, quick connect for a NOCO trickle charger as well as the electric jack and house power all connected. I may need to clean this all up...)
System has:
2x 6V Rolls Battery 6 FS GC-HC https://www.rollsbattery.com/battery/6-fs-gc-hc/
2x 100W Renogy panels https://www.renogy.com/100-watt-12-v...gn-back-order/
300 watt inverter (i had this kicking around) with a power bar plugged in to power small 120V items
30A Renogy Wanderer PWM controller https://www.renogy.com/wanderer-li-3...ge-controller/
30A fuse between controller and battery
200A fuse at the battery before the inverter
My plan was to upgrade to a 40A MPPT Rover from Renogy and add two more 100 watt panels in parallel with the first two to have 400 watts of 12V solar.
A few questions.... If I apply the math of total panel wattage divided by battery voltage equals system amps times 1.25, then I am at 41.67A (400/12*1.25=41.67) - is this OK? Or should I go to a 60A controller? Or is this math completely wrong???
If I am only connecting straight to the battery and not connecting to the controller's load outputs, can I use a positive ground controller to save a few bucks or is this foolish?
Would it be smart to add two panels at the back of the roof in series/parallel? It is my understanding that this can maximise solar collection if the back is sunny and the front is shaded - I may be mistaken though.
I hope this is enough information to answer my questions!
Thanks for any input, much appreciated
James
Comment