AzRoute66 asked some questions that were intended to help. "Charging too fast" is a symptom of a sulfated battery. Maybe your "new" battery sat in a warehouse for 6 months before you bought it, I don't know. MCA testing isn't going to translate to Ah capacity very well, but everything else you've said is consistent with a bad battery.
Putting AGM batteries in parallel is asking for trouble... if you want to recreate your setup, try measuring the current discharging from each of the batteries while the fridge is cycling, and see how balanced they are.
12v solar and chest freezer to fridge conversion - what went wrong?
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this thread reminds me more and more of the well known joke: http://www.design.caltech.edu/erik/Misc/balloon.htmlLeave a comment:
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Jeez man. Read my original post again. Then read your replies. You missed so much I can't believe you'd talk about attention to details. Case in point - it was a /temporary system/. I was looking for information to satiate my curiosity, not shortcuts.
I'm sure you have a lot of useful knowledge, but if you don't take the time to understand the system as it's been described and the question as it's been asked, you're just wasting your time any everyone else's. What value can you have here if you're not paying attention to those things?
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you don't believe in miracles that OP realizes his ignorance and amount of details involved in reliable design and comes around?I don't- I bet he's now searching Net up and down for quick-n-dirty shortcut. Trouble is there's none and with just little patience and attention to details he could accomplish what he is after. Oh well.
I'm sure you have a lot of useful knowledge, but if you don't take the time to understand the system as it's been described and the question as it's been asked, you're just wasting your time any everyone else's. What value can you have here if you're not paying attention to those things?Leave a comment:
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Really light on the panels. Why does everyone go cheap on panels? They cost far less than batteries. I've been using a chest fridge for years ( five months at a time), first with a 5CF and then with a 7CF when that outgassed. I use only a single car battery and a little more than a KW of panels. Fridge only operates during the day and will only start when battery is at least 13.7V. Cold is stored in mass liquids and electronically controlled to 33F. A mechanical thermostat is asking for disaster.Leave a comment:
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Either, or any way, it takes as much energy to melt ice as it does to make ice. Just reverse the direction of the heat flow.
As for keeping any box and its contents cold, at any given (steady) temp. diff., ambient to cold box, once cooled down, the heat loss/gain will most entirely only be f(cold box heat loss rate), with some additional consideration for cooling added warm contents, opening/closing door(s) or, indeed, making ice or freezing things in a possible freezer section. That is the cooling duty that the application needs to be designed to meet.
Startup transients in compression equipment are an important issue, but confined mostly to the battery/PV system design particulars and are in addition to and different from considerations of making and keeping stuff cold to prevent spoilage.Leave a comment:
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To be fair, it sounded (to me at least) like he was buying ice to keep his food cold.Leave a comment:
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Cognitive dissonanceLeave a comment:
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you don't believe in miracles that OP realizes his ignorance and amount of details involved in reliable design and comes around?I don't- I bet he's now searching Net up and down for quick-n-dirty shortcut. Trouble is there's none and with just little patience and attention to details he could accomplish what he is after. Oh well.
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I thought I read in your 1st post that you got tired of buying ice ?
In any case, the way I learned it, it's perhaps a good idea to identify the loads and the duty before designing a system to meet those loads and duties.
You obviously have that all well in hand
If you consider such information as I provided as having nothing to do with your situation, forget I wrote anything. Sorry to have bothered you.I don't- I bet he's now searching Net up and down for quick-n-dirty shortcut. Trouble is there's none and with just little patience and attention to details he could accomplish what he is after. Oh well.
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OK, I'm fairly new here so maybe I didn't ask my question the right way. BUT. This is about a chest freezer to refrigerator conversion using a johnson controls thermostat (see orig question and follow ups). I'm not making ice. This is probably good info for someone but has nothing to do with my situation or question.
Also have provided the startup and running wattage....
In any case, the way I learned it, it's perhaps a good idea to identify the loads and the duty before designing a system to meet those loads and duties.
You obviously have that all well in hand
If you consider such information as I provided as having nothing to do with your situation, forget I wrote anything. Sorry to have bothered you.Leave a comment:
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Leave a comment:
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Really light on the panels. Why does everyone go cheap on panels? They cost far less than batteries. I've been using a chest fridge for years ( five months at a time), first with a 5CF and then with a 7CF when that outgassed. I use only a single car battery and a little more than a KW of panels. Fridge only operates during the day and will only start when battery is at least 13.7V. Cold is stored in mass liquids and electronically controlled to 33F. A mechanical thermostat is asking for disaster.Leave a comment:
Leave a comment: