Cargo Trailer Camper/Toy Hauler Solar Rig

[UrbanElite]

Hello Everyone, I'm making a new post for my cargo trailer of what I have completed on it, what I have plans for and something to follow as the build continues. My plan for this build/trailer was to have a trailer that is very multi use in all uses in my life from camping, hauling power sports ( Atv, dirtbikes, sleds ) Moving stuff, ect.. My main use is to haul my dirt bikes and quad, as well stay in it as a camper for the weekends for me and the girlfriend.

Starting the build I have a 16x7 Cargo trailer. My Solar set up is 2x 320 Watt Solar Panels wired in parallel, Epever Traccer 40A MPPT charge controller, Matrix 1000W Pure Sine Inverter, 2x 305 AH Trojan 6v Batteries, Blue Sea Fuse Panel

We started with building the Lower cabinets just to the door frame of the door to make the cabinets as big as possible, but not losing too much space inside the trailer for total length. We did our framing with 1x1s, they are cheap, very strong and easy to work with.
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I built a chassis grounding bar to make it easier to run all my grounds too. Goes down below to the frame rail of the trailer.
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Inverter, Charge Controller, Ground Bar all mounted
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Master Switch, Blue Sea Double Fuse Block
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System Fully Charged with good sun light
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Here is a temp panel to mount my switchs, volt meter, usb plus, 12volt plug and my MT-50 screen.
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So far this is what is done. I will be adding shelves, cabinet doors and other cabinets up top. I have been out 2 weekends in a row and the system is working great to power the fridge 24/7 and using any 110v power we need. One thing I need is to tune and edit some of the settings on my MT-50 to charge my system right. I edited the battery type to flooded and AH to 305, but that is as far as I got, can anyone else help me with the other settings I need?

Follow this thread for a cool build, I will be updating as I go with info and pictures.

[SunEagle]

I see 3 issues with your solar system equipment.

1. Those batteries are big and heavy and the way they are confined will make it almost impossible to swap them out without removing a lot of other equipment
2. You have no way to get a hydrometer above the batteries to easily measure the SG which is a must for any FLA installation.
3. You have no room to perform any trouble shooting of the circuit wiring between the CC, batteries and inverter. You should give yourself easy access to all wire terminal and equipment controls.

Even that disconnect switch requires you to reach over the batteries to turn off. That is not safe. It should be on the front of the cabinet next to the meter.

IMO you put 7 lb into a 5 lb bag. Good luck with it.

[Sunking]

I concur with SE, but I do see a real safety issue. You have a switch panel directly over the batteries in a confined space that is capable of collecting hydrogen gas when the batteries are charging. Just one little spark when operating a switch can cause an explosion. Just make sure you have the girlfriend operate the switches. She can be replaced easily.

[UrbanElite]

Thanks for the replies, I will take all of this into consideration. Once you start building something you think there is more than enough room, but slowly it starts to add up, that's for sure and the system isn't in its final spot just yet, It is tight once everything is in there. To remove the batteries you have to unbolt the connetors, undo the strap and you can pull them out the side into the cabinet area, actually easy to do. It does make sense to move the battery disconnect, I guess that can be your last resort switch, I will look into moving that for sure.

[SunEagle]

Thanks for the replies, I will take all of this into consideration. Once you start building something you think there is more than enough room, but slowly it starts to add up, that's for sure and the system isn't in its final spot just yet, It is tight once everything is in there. To remove the batteries you have to unbolt the connetors, undo the strap and you can pull them out the side into the cabinet area, actually easy to do. It does make sense to move the battery disconnect, I guess that can be your last resort switch, I will look into moving that for sure.

If you can really remove the batteries easily then you are in a better position to maintain and keep them happy.

Beside moving the disconnect I would also make sure that any fumes that are generated by the batteries is exhausted as quickly as possible. Having them rise up into the CC or inverter without any venting may result in equipment failure to a small explosion.

[littleharbor]

I have seen RV's with roll out battery trays for ease of access. Would need a really stout set of rollers to support those batteries. Exterior access hatches Aren't too expensive.
Here's a seller on eBay who sells lots of RV windows and hatches pretty reasonably priced. http://stores.ebay.com/bottomdollarsurplusinc/

[UrbanElite]

If you can really remove the batteries easily then you are in a better position to maintain and keep them happy.

Beside moving the disconnect I would also make sure that any fumes that are generated by the batteries is exhausted as quickly as possible. Having them rise up into the CC or inverter without any venting may result in equipment failure to a small explosion.

Yeah, they aren't to bad to remove, only reason you gotta struggle a bit is because of the weight. I'm going to look into moving the switch out of the compartment, most of this wiring was done to test the system on a few trips I had coming up and system ran flawless!

I seen these little vents you can buy, I might put one beside the battery's on the outside of the trailer that have a little solar fan on them.

[UrbanElite]

I have seen RV's with roll out battery trays for ease of access. Would need a really stout set of rollers to support those batteries. Exterior access hatches Aren't too expensive.
Here's a seller on eBay who sells lots of RV windows and hatches pretty reasonably priced. http://stores.ebay.com/bottomdollarsurplusinc/

Good idea, wouldn't be a bad idea at all just t roll them out of there either, I'll take a look at the eBay store link thanks!

[SunEagle]

Good idea, wouldn't be a bad idea at all just t roll them out of there either, I'll take a look at the eBay store link thanks!

Those roll out battery trays are good in RV's but require long wires that can be stretch so the battery can be move without making any terminal disconnections. Just something to think about.

Oh and I know how heavy batteries can be. I have 2 x 6V interstate 232Ah used in my RV and they are a bitch to get out and off the tray they sit on.

[Mike90250]

I see another issue, with the electronics sharing the "fume space" with the batteries. You wont' be charging batteries at night, so few nighttime fumes, but when charging, I suspect you WILL smell the acid fumes, and the fumes will corrode the electronics eventually (3 years or less)

[UrbanElite]

I see another issue, with the electronics sharing the "fume space" with the batteries. You wont' be charging batteries at night, so few nighttime fumes, but when charging, I suspect you WILL smell the acid fumes, and the fumes will corrode the electronics eventually (3 years or less)

Yeah so far I haven't smelt anything like that that I know of, I might separate the battery's and electronics a bit by putting that vent on the outside going inside to the battery's and building a board system over the top of them maybe to build 2 levels. I'm going to have to see about maybe moving some stuff around that I've been hearing your replies on all this.