Advice on RV Set up & Wiring?

[Suprasoup]

Looks like a nice setup Carv. Since your rig is used only part time do you change the settings on your charge controller to float the batteries when not in use?

[Carv]

It's the Epever Android app for Android

You have to get it directly from their website
http://www.epsolarpv.com/en/index.ph...nical/download


And I used it with the Epever wifi box that plugs into to Epever solar charge controller. They also make a blue tooth box or you can plug directly in to your lap top using their software interface and a special cable USB to rj45.

DO NOT use a rj45 to rj45 it'll fry the rj45 Port on the charge controller.

[joerossjr]

Hey, what's this monitor app that we are looking at?

[Carv]

System works great, had the fridge set at 28 degrees with a 12 deg differential so it'd kick on at 40 degrees. This stopped the short cycling and saved 33% more watts per day.

Fridge works great and after the temp adjustment used 8% of the battery AH capacity in 13 hrs so it used 17.6AH or 211.2 Watts this included running the inverter when out of sleep mode, LED interior lights ocassionaly, and a 16ft LED rope light for about 3 hours a night.

All in all I'd say this is a pretty good little project, especially for being "stuck in the 12V box".

If you're looking for more specifics on how to set up your inverter & 12V fridge check out this DIY 12V fridge thread on the cheap RV living, it has a LOT of good info and examples:
http://www.cheaprvliving.com/forums/...own-12V-Fridge


Here are some pics of the fridge & Ebox wifi readings on the system when in use. IMG_20171020_080032067.jpg


IMG_20171018_101513167.jpg


IMG_20171018_101610427.jpg

[Carv]

For those of you who've read this thread trying to learn something, here's the final product.

I still have to make a few small changes but it is a functional system.

And .....the cable porn
IMG_20170920_183349099.jpg


I did find a midnite baby box on ebay for $22 so I ditched the square D but in the end I wish I would have stayed with it. The baby box has DIN rails in it already but it's cheaply made and I can bend every bit of it by hand. With the modifications I made to it to accomidate the cord holds I wish I would have gone with the Square D and just modified it with DIN rails as it is a much stronger box.


On another note; I found out that on a ITC-1000 12V digital tempature controller, the 12V power source is seprate from the cool/heat relay on the controller so I was able to wire it in to run off 12V allowing the temp controller to run while the fridge and inverter are in sleep mode and when the relay connects (over/under set temp) it wakes the inverter out of sleep mode. I like this version of the controller the best because it has a power on/off button on the controller allowing me to turn it on and off as desired. This will greatly reduce the amount of watts I use to run the fridge to the point I'd bet I could run it for 5 days with out charging the batteries.

https://www.amazon.com/All-Purpose-Fermentation-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat/dp/B008KVGWT4

My first trip is in a week so Ill report back on how it works then.

[sensij]

Ok thanks. Sounds like 30A it is.

If I went to Trojan T105's would you recommend the 40A CC?

If you lived somewhere where weather is a bigger factor, and you *needed* that extra current to complete the charge, I think the 40 A (with the Trojans) could make more sense.

[Carv]

Ok thanks. Sounds like 30A it is.

If I went to Trojan T105's would you recommend the 40A CC?

[sensij]

Any reasoning behind this?

I don't see the benefit here of pushing more than 30 A. AGM's would like it, some higher end FLA's would take it, but nothing in what you've written suggests you need to do that. Centennial recommends not pushing the charge rate too aggressively, probably for good reasons (less efficient charging, more heat build up, more water consumption, etc). 30 A is plenty.

[Carv]

I'd stick with the 30 A CC here.

Any reasoning behind this?

[sensij]

2 centennial 6V FLA wired in series for 12V -214AH rated.

Panels will be 2 -260w 60 cell, wired in series, flat mounted on trailer roof located in a 5 sun hour area no shade unless it's cloudy, which is rare, it's southern az desert, west of Yuma.

I'd stick with the 30 A CC here.

[Carv]

I've lost track of what you are doing, and there is a lot of noise in the thread. What specific batteries are you using? How will the panels be mounted (south facing, good tilt? flat mounted? shade/view of the horizon?).

2 centennial 6V FLA wired in series for 12V -214AH rated.

Panels will be 2 -260w 60 cell, wired in series, flat mounted on trailer roof located in a 5 sun hour area no shade unless it's cloudy, which is rare, it's southern az desert, west of Yuma.


basically I'm asking how much of the day will the panels produce more that 390W?

Also I'm going to run battery tempature sensing on the controller and this is a once a month for 3 days use application, it won't be running 24/7.



Joe Ross, your talking about charging volts which I'm aware of, I'm talking about charging amps and what the batteries can handle VS. what the panels/CC will actually produce and for how long.

[sensij]

I've lost track of what you are doing, and there is a lot of noise in the thread. What specific batteries are you using? How will the panels be mounted (south facing, good tilt? flat mounted? shade/view of the horizon?).

[joerossjr]

Usually you tell the controller what type of battery and what the bank AH capacity is, then the controller charges it appropriately. So, if programmed correctly they'll both do the same thing correctly. I don't recall how you configured you panels nor your bank size/type, but the input voltage to the controller is important, as is the output Amps to the bank. Can you find the manual to the Controllers? I am pretty sure I would spend the extra 30 bucks for the future expansion ability.

[Carv]

Got most stuff figured out and I'm down to buying my charge controller.

I'm going to get a Epever tracer BN series MPPT, the question is how many amps 30 or 40?

I can get the 30A unit for $165 and the 40A unit for $197, about $30 difference, not a lot SO it all comes down to amps and Watts supplied VS. what is best for the batteries?

The 30A says it can produce 390w and the 40A and can produce 520w my only concern is the charge rate stressing the batteries. My 2 6V in series are rated at 214 amp hours SO... 40A is a C5.35 and the 30A is C7.13 charge rate.

Since this is all powered by 2 -260w panels in series and the power supplied will vary depending on sun received not sure how much actual amps the batteries will receive and for how long?

So is it better to get a 40A CC assuming the amount of amps and time supplied above 30A will be minimal based on sun received on panels OR is it better to get the 30A CC so it limits the charge rate to something more acceptable for the batteries as it will be supplied at 30A for a much greater time?

These panels will be ran in a 5 hour winter sun area when in use.

Thanks

[joerossjr]

WOW... That was a heck of a ride... I read every page, and I learned a lot!