Bought my first solar panel and charge controller today

[mfrnfyg]

I just bought a Coleman 40 watt Folding Solar Panel that came with a 7 amp charge controller.
The charge controller has three led lights on it. Red for low voltage, yellow for charging and green for charged.
When the panel is connected to the charge controller, the yellow light is on. As soon as I plug it into the 12 v 5 ah battery, the light shuts off. Its almost as if the charge controller turns off.
Any ideas?

[sensij]

Try disconnecting everything, and then connecting the battery first, then the panel.

[PNjunction]

Hopefully it isn't a returned product that someone has already zapped.

One thing to look out for with the Sunforce / HF / Coleman stuff, is that the SAE connectors can be wired in an uncommon polarity. That is, when it works, it only works with their own clamps and so forth. BUT, if you were to say substitute the SAE clamps from say a Battery Tender, now the polarity is backwards.

That got me a long time ago with Sunforce stuff, and substituting my own clamps from other gear and presto - wrong polarity. Just something to watch out for.

Do NOT spend any more money at this end of the product range. This will get you going, but for the same amount, we probably would have suggested a Morningstar Sunguard 5a pwm controller, and a different panel with a major notch higher in quality.

Those Sunforce / HF / Coleman 7A controllers, are not even pwm, but "hysteresis" types, that take a loooong time to charge ping ponging back and forth set at the rate of the battery's own hysteresis. And manufacturing QC was hit or miss. The model you have *may* be pwm by now, but I can't say for sure.

Kind of wished you would have asked first, but this WILL get you going, assuming the CC isn't malfunctioning.

[mfrnfyg]

One thing to look out for with the Sunforce / HF / Coleman stuff, is that the SAE connectors can be wired in an uncommon polarity. That is, when it works, it only works with their own clamps and so forth. BUT, if you were to say substitute the SAE clamps from say a Battery Tender, now the polarity is backwards.

You got it! The polarity was reversed!

Do NOT spend any more money at this end of the product range. This will get you going, but for the same amount, we probably would have suggested a Morningstar Sunguard 5a pwm controller, and a different panel with a major notch higher in quality.

Those Sunforce / HF / Coleman 7A controllers, are not even pwm, but "hysteresis" types, that take a loooong time to charge ping ponging back and forth set at the rate of the battery's own hysteresis. And manufacturing QC was hit or miss. The model you have *may* be pwm by now, but I can't say for sure.

Kind of wished you would have asked first, but this WILL get you going, assuming the CC isn't malfunctioning.

I fully agree with you and the quality of this product.
I had two $50.00 gift cards for this store and this product was on sale for $99.99. Otherwise, I wouldn't even have thought about buying this product.

[mfrnfyg]

I'm definitely interested in getting another 40 to 100 watt panel.
What would you recommend?

[Wy_White_Wolf]

I'm definitely interested in getting another 40 to 100 watt panel.
What would you recommend?

Bigger battery first. 40 watts into a 5AH battery would put you at about a C/2 charge rate. That's too high.

WWW

[mfrnfyg]

Bigger battery first. 40 watts into a 5AH battery would put you at about a C/2 charge rate. That's too high.

WWW

I have a couple dozen of so 12 v 5 ah batteries.

[mfrnfyg]

I have a couple dozen of so 12 v 5 ah batteries.

Today was the first day I had with lots of sunshine since I bought this panel.
The highest amp reading I got was 300 ma.
It would take 8 hours with full sun to charge one little battery if I drained it 50%...
Ahh well, it got my feet wet.

[PNjunction]

Bigger battery first. 40 watts into a 5AH battery would put you at about a C/2 charge rate. That's too high.

Normally yes. But here, the op has some AWESOME pure-lead Hawker/Odyssey/Cyclon batts. Even though only 5ah rated, it can handle 5C bursts and even 1C with ease. The secret is the very low internal-resistance.

Tis a real funny sight to see an 80w panel and controller attached to one of these, and the battery not breaking a sweat. This was actually my first foray into pure-lead too. Got me hooked on low IR.

[PNjunction]

I'm definitely interested in getting another 40 to 100 watt panel.
What would you recommend?

None right now! At 40w, were talking 40w / 18v = 2.2A best case. (The 'ol power formula, P/E*I).

That is just under about .5C compared to 5ah and is plenty for now. Instead of spending the money on more panel power, I hate to say it, but spend it on a more efficient charge controller instead. A morningstar Sunsaver 6A pwm set for "flooded" (because that actually matches the voltage better for the agm's than does their "sealed" jumper setting intended mainly for gel) would be a very nice upgrade and take care of those Cyclons even better.

I'm very glad you caught the reverse-polarity! If you were to cut apart the existing panel wiring, of course that would be very important to determine first before attaching to any upgraded charge controller.

Yes, you *could* go with more panel power, and it would serve you well when conditions are gloomy or very short such as in the winter.

The small current you are witnessing may just be due to the fact that when you put the solar gear on them, they are already pretty well charged, most likely going immediately into in the absorb phase, where currents are naturally low. If you want to try it out some more, discharge those babies to 25-50% DOD, and try again. This time, you should see the full current output until they once again reach absorb on their own. That will be very fast, so a quick distracting phone call and you could miss it! Of course if the weather is crappy, that could be the reason too.

I'm so glad you got it working!

[SunEagle]

I have a couple dozen of so 12 v 5 ah batteries.

I have no experience with those type of batteries but I would still caution you not to wire more than 2 or 3 of them in parallel to increase your battery system capacity.

[inetdog]

You got it! The polarity was reversed!

Similar polarity problems have been reported with the Harbor Fright panel and wiring sets. Be careful if you try to use wiring that did not come as part of the kit (or even mixing parts from very old versus current kits.)

[mfrnfyg]

None right now! At 40w, were talking 40w / 18v = 2.2A best case. (The 'ol power formula, P/E*I).

Im not looking to add another, however I would like to buy one to replace the one I had. I returned it because I noticed a small crack in the glass that was not put there from me as well as the poor quality.
Even in the direct sun, with no clouds, no obstructions, I was only able to get a reading of .8 amps.

Yes, you *could* go with more panel power, and it would serve you well when conditions are gloomy or very short such as in the winter.

Gloomy conditions are just around the corner as winter is approaching. Just may consider that.

[PNjunction]

Ok, perhaps something like a panel from Renogy or similar is in order. Go with a reputable place, since you want these things packaged well for shipping.

Some may come with "mc4" connectors hanging out from the junction box. If they do, instead of cutting up that small jumper, be sure to get an mc4 extension cable, and cut that.

One thing to be sure of - when you go to check your new panels voltage and current ratings, or even checking polarity - be SURE you have the multimeter leads in the right jacks first, or you may pop the fuse. I've done it many times since taking open circuit voltage or short circuit current readings, you are placing the leads across the panel in either case, and it is easy to forget that your multimeter leads are in the wrong jacks. I've got a small fortune tied up in multimeter fuses in my drawer.

You may want to see if your multimeter is still functioning by trying to take a voltage measurement on another battery. A Fluke 87v will tell you when your leads are in the wrong jacks, but that is overkill at this stage of the game.