Scrap the Converter that came with the Travel Trailer?

[lkruper]

We have a large teardrop trailer (I know kind of an oxymoron). that is set up for serious boondocking. We have a 185W high voltage solar panel that feeds into a Morningstar MPPT controller and 150AH Lifeline AGM. The converter is a Progressive Dynamics 45A power center and then the TV is hooked in through the 7 prong. It all plays well together. I have called Lifeline and talked with one of their engineers and they blessed the Progressive Dynamics converter and Morningstar controller and Morningstar Suresine inverter. I do not believe in integrated electrical/electronics, you do have failures and when that happens the invertercharger is either replaced or repaired.

You will need to use the 45A power center most of the time, as Lifeline batteries like to have 0.2C when they are discharged to 50% (30 amps for your 150AH battery), because you likely cannot get more than 15 amps from your 185W panel. Have you measured the output of it? If you go down to 50% of your 150AH battery, it would take 5 hours at 15 amps (+ 2-10% extra) + 2 hours absorb to recharge your battery. You are not likely to get 7 hours of insolation with panels mounted on your trailer, even in the summertime.

[Shadow Catcher]

The key word is High voltage, we get usable current from sun up to sun down typically 35V in partial shade. I have a Victron battery monitor and keep an eye on SOC. When boondocking the major current draws are the Waeco refrigerator, lights all LED, ignition for the water heater, XM radio, chargers for cell phones laptop etc. and the inverter is only used for the TV. We have substituted two 80 MM three speed Antec case fans for the Fantastic fan that would normally be used.
Two years ago we spent eight days on the north shore of Lake Superior in a site with trees, lots of trees. We lost a little ground each day but were at 64% SOC at the end of our stay.
Morningstar has a white paper on the advantages of using high voltage panels and while mine came as a result of my ignorance in buying a panel on ebay intended for a grid tie system it was a good mistake that has paid off.

[lkruper]

The key word is High voltage, we get usable current from sun up to sun down typically 35V in partial shade. I have a Victron battery monitor and keep an eye on SOC. When boondocking the major current draws are the Waeco refrigerator, lights all LED, ignition for the water heater, XM radio, chargers for cell phones laptop etc. and the inverter is only used for the TV. We have substituted two 80 MM three speed Antec case fans for the Fantastic fan that would normally be used.
Two years ago we spent eight days on the north shore of Lake Superior in a site with trees, lots of trees. We lost a little ground each day but were at 64% SOC at the end of our stay.
Morningstar has a white paper on the advantages of using high voltage panels and while mine came as a result of my ignorance in buying a panel on ebay intended for a grid tie system it was a good mistake that has paid off.

What is the manufacturer and model number of your 185w solar panel? I would like to see the specs. My calculation is simply 185w / 12v = 15 amps. It is not healthy for your battery if it does not get charged back to 100% each day.

[Shadow Catcher]

It has been five years since I installed the panel but I have seen 70+ volts no load and it is if I remember correctly, 66 cells. 99% of the time it reaches 100% particularly when we are traveling (full sun and TV alternator).

http://www.tnttt.com/gallery/image_page.php?album_id=803&image_id=83771

[lkruper]

It has been five years since I installed the panel but I have seen 70+ volts no load and it is if I remember correctly, 66 cells. 99% of the time it reaches 100% particularly when we are traveling (full sun and TV alternator).
http://www.tnttt.com/gallery/image_p...image_id=83771

Looks like a nice installation and RV. I don't know how many times you have cycled your battery or how often you use it. There is a pdf Technical Manual you can find online by Concorde for Lifeline batteries. They are excellent batteries. Since this is recreational and you are not relying on it for day to day power you may get more mileage out of it. This battery has the potential to be cycled 1000 times if discharged to 50%. But you may not need this kind of performance if not used often.

However, it would benefit from being serviced according to the instructions in the manual by an expert. It may recover the battery from being deeply discharged without being fully charged right away. Or you can just replace it when it no longer supplies the power you need.

In any event the manual is a good read to explain your battery functionality and maintenance.


Here is the URL to the manual: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...04317490,d.cGU

[SunEagle]

It has been five years since I installed the panel but I have seen 70+ volts no load and it is if I remember correctly, 66 cells. 99% of the time it reaches 100% particularly when we are traveling (full sun and TV alternator).
http://www.tnttt.com/gallery/image_p...image_id=83771

Actually the higher the voltage rating of a solar panel the lower the amount of amps it can generate. Watts = Volt x Amps, so 185 watts / 70 volts = 2.65 amps.

That panel looks like a 72 cell which is strange for it to only be rated 185watts. That size panel is usually in the + 300 watt range. So if it is around 300 watts then an MPPT CC could get > 25 amps of charging for that 150Ah battery which is around a C/6 charge rate. And that fast charge should be able to get your SOC back up close to 100% in short order.

[Shadow Catcher]

DSC 0529 [1024x768].jpg

Both the Morningstar controller and Progressive Dynamics converter have a daily boost cycle that according to Lifeline works quite well.
The 64% SOC was the lowest we have ever been. As additional sources when I did the wring I used 150A Anderson Power Poles to the battery and from the panel to the controller I added a second controller PWM Steca to which I can attach a 135W Unisolar flex panel which can be set out in direct sun. the only problem with it is that it is 18' long. I also set up a Jumper cable with a Power Pole so that I can pull more current from the TV alternator than the 10Ga wire through the tow harness.
Our experience is that most National Parks and many state parks do not have hookups/120 AC so we do rely on the solar when traveling. We rely on the gas grill, stove top for cooking and use a French Press for coffee etc. so we are not using resistance heat for anything.
The latest project is a water heater (6gal RV), heater using a 12V solar hot water pump and a automotive heater core with a 100MM case fan. My idea but others are experimenting with it on the Teardrop & Tiny Travel Trailer forum.

[lkruper]

[ATTACH]7850[/ATTACH]

Both the Morningstar controller and Progressive Dynamics converter have a daily boost cycle that according to Lifeline works quite well.
The 64% SOC was the lowest we have ever been. As additional sources when I did the wring I used 150A Anderson Power Poles to the battery and from the panel to the controller I added a second controller PWM Steca to which I can attach a 135W Unisolar flex panel which can be set out in direct sun. the only problem with it is that it is 18' long. I also set up a Jumper cable with a Power Pole so that I can pull more current from the TV alternator than the 10Ga wire through the tow harness.
Our experience is that most National Parks and many state parks do not have hookups/120 AC so we do rely on the solar when traveling. We rely on the gas grill, stove top for cooking and use a French Press for coffee etc. so we are not using resistance heat for anything.
The latest project is a water heater (6gal RV), heater using a 12V solar hot water pump and a automotive heater core with a 100MM case fan. My idea but others are experimenting with it on the Teardrop & Tiny Travel Trailer forum.

If you are happy with your performance and utility, then that is what matters. However, if you were to call Lifeline and tell them that you have let the battery get to 64% SOC for extended periods, I have a feeling I know what they would say. The document I gave you in the link cautions against letting it get below 90%.

[SunEagle]

[ATTACH]7850[/ATTACH]

Both the Morningstar controller and Progressive Dynamics converter have a daily boost cycle that according to Lifeline works quite well.
The 64% SOC was the lowest we have ever been. As additional sources when I did the wring I used 150A Anderson Power Poles to the battery and from the panel to the controller I added a second controller PWM Steca to which I can attach a 135W Unisolar flex panel which can be set out in direct sun. the only problem with it is that it is 18' long. I also set up a Jumper cable with a Power Pole so that I can pull more current from the TV alternator than the 10Ga wire through the tow harness.
Our experience is that most National Parks and many state parks do not have hookups/120 AC so we do rely on the solar when traveling. We rely on the gas grill, stove top for cooking and use a French Press for coffee etc. so we are not using resistance heat for anything.
The latest project is a water heater (6gal RV), heater using a 12V solar hot water pump and a automotive heater core with a 100MM case fan. My idea but others are experimenting with it on the Teardrop & Tiny Travel Trailer forum.

That Unisolar 135w panel would be considered having a very high Voc. That was one of the design features to increase the voltage output and help reduce the VD to the inverter.

Unfortunately those peel and stick panels also quickly failed due to not being able to get ride of the heat build up being stuck to a metal roof. It sounded like a great idea at conception but turned into a "real life" disappointment.