I'm guessing much the same reason some people keep 50's-era cars in running condition, or do their own gunsmithing.
Contrary to what some economists think, not every decision is financial.
My 10 watt panel with using solar-tite 384 encapsulant instead of sylgard
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Build solar thermal for water - much more efficient
Why people want to continue on with the fantasy of building a panel when factory made is cheaper, legal, has a warranty and is safer I will never understand.
Building one or two as a learning experience or a science project is great - to build them for power production makes no sense.Leave a comment:
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Homemade panels
Open a ROTH IRA and put that same money in say 1000 per year and buy the time you retire it will pay your electric bill. After 7 years and you can take out what you put in as it will have quadrupled still paying your electric bill and you can go on a cruise with what you invested.
FWIW you cannot use your homemade panels on your home as they are not UL listed. No city would approve permits, no inspector would approve inspection, no POCO would connect you, and no insurance company would pay for damages.
Make your own panels if you want people. Do it carefully and it will last as long as any commercial product. Wont be as pretty (I cannot totally eliminate some air bubbles in my encapsulant) but will work fine.Leave a comment:
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ACG - Lots of chatter from you that is nothing but whining.Leave a comment:
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Sunking has more experience than a lot of other people on this forum. He has probably forgotten more information than you will ever learn concerning solar panels?
If you want to learn more about solar then stick around and learn otherwise stop posting your crap.Leave a comment:
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Abssolutely Amazing.
The very FACT this is a dedicated sub forum called Do it yourself solar panels yet people posting here are instantly attacked when they dare mention the difference between on brand and another is disturbing indeed.
Just goes to show the dumbing down effort took.Leave a comment:
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I have been trying to build about 4-5 200 watt panels for the past 2 months now to see if I can do away with these ridiculous charges from the power company but was put off by the total expenses, I mean the best I could do was $3/watt so it didn't seem to be worth the effort to me. It seems that encapsulating the cells (ie. sylgard 184) is the biggest contributor(I would have needed about 4 jars of the stuff for each of the panels). Using epoxy just didn't seem appropriate, for starters it yellows over time and it is too rigid and at this level of investment that was not going to work. I did a search online and came up with this
They claim that this solartite is just like sylgard but it is much cheaper(they are offering one jar for about $35) so i decided to try it out. I also bought some 1.5x3 solar cells to test this solartite in a 10 watt solar panel diy. The mixing of the stuff goes like sylgard, 10 parts of the base to 1 part of the curing agent(even smells similar). So I built an aluminum frame(bought from home-depot), integrated the usual lexan sheet and poured the stuff in. It started to get thicker and set after a few hours and when it was done, the finished stuff was just like sylgard, couldn't tell the difference between the two. The 10 watt panel is looking very nice. I'll upload some pictures when I get home.
Now that the initial test of this solartite is complete, I want to move on to the main project but I'll appreciate some input from those with more experience with this kind of stuff, in particular if you have ever used this solar-tite before or if you have past experience with building solar panels, please helpLeave a comment:
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Now I see why you post as you do. Self diagnosed very well.Leave a comment:
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So please tell how building your own panels going to save you 1 dime? If you could build 5-200 watt panels that actually work and last more than a year or two will generate about 40-cents worth of electricity per day or about $12 per month, $144 per year.
You could have bought commercial panels for about $2 per watt, and they will work and last for 20 to 30 years. Plus you could have had your neighbors pick up most the cost. I am sorry to be rude, but I just do not follow the logic. Going about it the way you are is going to cost you more money than just buying power from the utility.
And by the way your $0.40 cents a day is incorrect. Another assumptive rant of yours.Leave a comment:
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Impossible - you can maybe come close to that for something with limited use or you can buy one that is UL listed with a guarantee for not all that much more.Leave a comment:
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Thanks jrloar, These solar panel retailers were starting to bum me out!
I agree its not hard to build a great panel for $1/watt that can last 25-30 years.
(this post was supposed to be in materials.....)Leave a comment:
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You use the unloaded (open circuit) voltage. And be sure to allow for it to rise even higher in cold weather (frosty mornings, if you get them in your area) The inverter is connected to the unloaded panel for 5 minutes as it wakes up, and tests the grid, before it starts pulling power. Cold panels produce higher voltage, but you need to keep your hot panels (lower voltage) above the inverter shutdown point.
That's why most mainstream, code approved inverters have a 300-500V input window. (vary's between brands)Leave a comment:
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connection of panel
My question.How many panels to connect in series. I got a 600 watt grid tie inverter.Input is 22-60. my panels are 65 watts x18 volts each.[36. 3x6 cells] I know with nothing hooked up to the panels the voltage goes higher, and when you hook something up to them the voltage drops. So do I use the voltage of the panels when they are hooked up to the Inverter? or with no load on them.
tks
JohnLeave a comment:
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Russ when I get my check in June I will scan it and show you the proof. I have already put my first quarter check in the bank. I was not boasting that I was in the military I was just giving a little back ground on myself.
By the way thanks for welcoming me to solar panel talk.Attached FilesLeave a comment:
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