Yes they should be air tight , any space can cause moister , and if you spent anything at all for your panel it's worth to do it right to protec it.
Epoxy for encapsulating cells (great DIY thread with photos!)
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The don't need to be air tight, but they need to be moisture proof. If you can seal them 100% or vent them 100%, so that you never get condensation in them, you are good. Any condensing moisture will quickly ruin the solar cells, and you panel will die.
Painted wood, silicone seal, epoxies and most plastics, are not water vapor proof, and you will get condensation inside eventually.Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
|| Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
|| VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A
solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-ListerComment
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Moisture proofing panels, which is better, EVA, Slygard 184, venting or sealing?
I am left just wondering what and how to protect the thin 6x6 cells that I plan on putting in to a DIY panel. I have bought EVA film and Tyvek tape and was thinking I would heat seal the EVA on tempered glass, use the tape to seal the edges of the glass and back panel and possibly even try to vacuum out the air space sealing the holes in the frame with "something" as I have read that silicon sealant will not keep out moisture vapor. Now, reading that possible venting will keep cell damage from happening, just makes me wonder: just what do I need to do? Am not concerned with cost as I am only building one panel to take to remote camping sites. So, which approach is best, seal or not seal? And if the panel is vented, does that mean the cells are just left unsealed against the front glass panel? The more I read, more I am confused.Comment
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rather than try suggest alternatives at this point i would like to see your experiments with EVA and the rest. have wondered how to get the air out with diy vacuums. have some experience with the liquid encapsulants like sylgard but would like to know more about diy EVAComment
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low cost encapsulation
I am working on a "proof of concept" solar power solution for a very very poor community of a poor country and ran into trouble of keeping cells well encapsulated. Since cost is a very big factor here therefore no question of exotic sealants like PV-804 or Sylgard-184.
Instead I was thinking to sandwich the solar cell array in UV / Weather Resistant heat shrink film and toss it in the oven. Designing the panels to be reclaimable and repairable in future is also important due to high occurrence of stray bullets flying overhead. Couple that with poverty and a damage to single panel could mean a big loss for an individual.
Can someone with experience assist me with their valuable opinion I shall be grateful for life.
I can also couple an automated misting system triggered by surface temperature to keep the panels cooler in extreme summer heat.Comment
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Cells need a hermetic seal to prevent internal corrosion, if you think you have a method, build one now, and get it out in the weather so you can start debugging it. Few materials can provide a water VAPOR seal that is needed.
Consider some of the blems or non-UL panelsPowerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
|| Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
|| VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A
solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-ListerComment
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never mind the misting part..lets concentrate on sealing the PV's
Any alternate to expensive sealers..they are basically the sole culprit of driving cost high..I shall look into methods of preserving the sealer compound minimizing the quantity needed per panel may be?Comment
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check out with this guy did...he used silicon caulk.
make a post in the thread (the one i'm linking below) if you have a question and he'll get the message, if not i'll write him personally
Here's the thread
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the only alternatives seem to be using normal silicone to hold the cells in place and hope for the best, this still appears to be only a bit less than half the price of sylgard etc, i did try it, and the results are not that great, the cells are not encapsulated at all really and time will tell the results. would love to see the epoxy results but not a single image has been shown so far, the repairability factor would concern me in the case of a mistake or broken cell. can totally understand maybe using a perfect manufacturing technique to produce a stable epoxy result with glass etc, but not diy.
there seems to be 4 major costs in a diy panel, the cells, the glass and frame, the encapsulant, the rest (tabbing and bus wire, solder, flux, junction box, diodes and cables) spend about the same amount on each and you will have a decent diy panel if you can put the recipe together, am about $2 per watt. for glass and frame am using recycled sliding doors which has saved alotComment
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It would be very interesting to compare the performance of the panels with encapsulated cell with the non-encapsulated cells.
It seems to me that the absence of encapsulation or ineffective encapsulation is the one of the major problems with DIY solar panels. Is there any info on how quickly non-encapsulated cells degrade due to water vapour?
Can we have lots of BIG piccies of encapsulated solar cells please?
thanks
Phil
Bare solar cells exposed to the elements
www.avdweb.nlComment
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Sylgard
I'm in the middle of my first panel build and I'm trying to do a professional-looking or better job building a 280 Watt 72-cell panel using 6x6 cells. I've assembled and painted the aluminum frame and ordered the tempered glass.
My current plan is to use Sylgard-184 to encapsulate. Has anyone had luck getting the air bubbles out? Has anyone tried Sylgard-182 which has a longer cure time than the 184? Perhaps that would help?
I'm thinking about using an eye-dropper to help remove air. Not sure if that will work or not.
Here's a url to a DOW manual with a couple of tips:
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Hi Solarrules - Welcome to Solar Panel Talk!
Several of the guys are on projects like your at present - let us see what they have to say.
Russ[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Comment
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Solarules,
I have had some panels that I used sylgard with and to me it is a learning lesson. i think if you can put sylgard on your glass first then put your cells down then pore sylgard ontop on the cells you will not have any air.Comment
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Sylgard air bubbles
Incidentally, I have my cells and have pre-tabbed the entire lot. As for the painting the aluminum, it could be a thread of its own, but man my frame (ordered from Markp0177) looks BEAUTIFUL with the paint job. Next paint job will be even better..
One more disparate thought -- I agree with Markp0177 -- I'm trying to make all workmanship last a long, long time. Taking my sweet time on my first build. Next build can go a lot quicker.Comment
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I haven't tryed it this way but I have 5 panels and I have tryed different ways to do it. All panels had air. I read somewhere to try it the way i said. I'm useing 5x5 cells now . I have tried 3x6's 4x4;s 6x6's and now 5x5's . I like these better.
i'm in the prosses of making my own frames. Welding them at the 45% angle.
Slygard has been used by manufactures befor EVA came along. I am making a 72 cell also. I have some sylgard on hand now but I want the larger container so I'll know i'll have enough to do the job.Comment
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