Epoxy for encapsulating cells (great DIY thread with photos!)

[DeltaFox 25]

BilljustBill,

Yes that is the same stuff but it goes for $53.00. If you can find it cheeper that that tell me please. The amount of the Slygard is about 20 oz.
567g. It's just enough to do a panel with 36 3x6 cells . I think I'm going to have to buy two for my 6x6 panel that I'm making.

[DeltaFox 25]

I have just found a different supplyer of the sylgard 184. It's from superioressex.com .You have to at least buy $100.00 worth. They want $36.87. Theres is made from Corning.
There web sight. www.superioressex.com/electronics.aspx and I went to the online shopping ( DC-184-1.1 ) 1.1/# Sylgard Elastomer. I hope this helps some one .

[Mike90250]

For long term use, to prevent thermal stress, you need to match "Thermal Expansion Coefficient" for both the silicon cells, and the potting compound. Otherwise, a few months of hot/cold - day/night cycles will crack the cells. Like the way a bi-metal thermostat works, a thermostat bends, but PV cells don't like to bend.

[BilljustBill]

BilljustBill,

Yes that is the same stuff but it goes for $53.00. If you can find it cheeper that that tell me please. The amount of the Slygard is about 20 oz.
567g. It's just enough to do a panel with 36 3x6 cells . I think I'm going to have to buy two for my 6x6 panel that I'm making.

Here's what I found, but the current auctions' cost went from $49 to $53 for the .5 kg kits ...

http://cgi.ebay.com/Sylgard-184-Solar-Cells-Panel-Encapsulant_W0QQitemZ400067558114QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5d25e27ae2

You have found a better deal if one is building two or three panels. There is also listed a material for a backsheet and another type of a plastic film encapsulation. Could I hear your comments about them?

http://stores.shop.ebay.com/Livingoffthegrid_W0QQ_fsubZ6736854

When watching a program of "How it's Made", a window manufacturer used a type of heated Butyl rubber to do the final seal of their double pane window assemblies. They said that Butyl keeps out moisture and stops moisture from getting inside and fogging their windows. Along with using that material as a final coat of sealant to seal all openings, I had an idea that might work to dissipate heat if I can get a moisture proof seal.

Since I'm concerned about panel overheating and therefore using Hardyboard cement siding for the backside, with metal wall stud material and 1x4 Hardyboard trim in building the panel's framework, dissipating the heat has my attention.

If the white Teldar backing material is an insulator, why couldn't a person cut a series of thin kerf slots in the cementboard back-panel of the solar panel, slide in several thin lengths of aluminum drip edge use on the edge of your home's roof and facisa? This "L" shaped metal could be sealed with both a good sealant like LexCell and a Butyl sealant, so the metal fins extend down and dissipate the heat to make the cells run cooler and more efficient... Comments?

Jason, any comments from your experience?
Bill

[DeltaFox 25]

I found a material just like Sylgard184 but it's made by corning and it cost $36.87 .I ordered 3 of them . If you use the sylgard right it should flow around the cells so there are no air space and it's a silicone base material. I touched the back side of the one's I have done and it feels like a rubber , that is dried.
Idon't try to use the EVA and the ted for the panels . I don't have the right table or the heat to do that.

I just use a 1" aluminum fram and put the solar cells on it then seal it with sylgard. I use PV 801 sealent for around the edges so the sylgard does not run off.

[BilljustBill]

I found a material just like Sylgard184 but it's made by corning and it cost $36.87 .I ordered 3 of them . If you use the sylgard right it should flow around the cells so there are no air space and it's a silicone base material. I touched the back side of the one's I have done and it feels like a rubber , that is dried.
Idon't try to use the EVA and the ted for the panels . I don't have the right table or the heat to do that.

I just use a 1" aluminum fram and put the solar cells on it then seal it with sylgard. I use PV 801 sealent for around the edges so the sylgard does not run off.

Do I read your use of the top glass/polycarbonate and Slygard material as that is all you use on the backside of your panels?

Thanks, Bill

[DeltaFox 25]

YES as long as your aluminum is giving you straingth and the glass is attached to the frame and the cells are like glued with the sylgerd it works. I have two ot them now out side both making 20 volts.

[BilljustBill]

I found a material just like Sylgard184 but it's made by corning and it cost $36.87 .I ordered 3 of them . If you use the sylgard right it should flow around the cells so there are no air space and it's a silicone base material. I touched the back side of the one's I have done and it feels like a rubber , that is dried.
Idon't try to use the EVA and the ted for the panels . I don't have the right table or the heat to do that.

I just use a 1" aluminum fram and put the solar cells on it then seal it with sylgard. I use PV 801 sealent for around the edges so the sylgard does not run off.

What is the PV 801, it's cost, and where do you find it? ;>)

Thanks!
Bill

[DeltaFox 25]

The PV 804 it a silacone sealent made for solar panels. It is $11.95 a tube. it fits into a regular calking gun. It is made by dow coring.
A solar panel frame adhesive & sealent. Once I have the cells on the glass you put the PVsealent around the edge so when you pore the sylgard it does not run off the glass.The PV 804 also helps keep your buss wires down becaues it sticky.(thats good) You can get it on EBay .

[BilljustBill]

The PV 804 it a silacone sealent made for solar panels. It is $11.95 a tube. it fits into a regular calking gun. It is made by dow coring.
A solar panel frame adhesive & sealent. Once I have the cells on the glass you put the PVsealent around the edge so when you pore the sylgard it does not run off the glass.The PV 804 also helps keep your buss wires down becaues it sticky.(thats good) You can get it on EBay .

Do you use the sealants to seal/attach a plastic box for your electrical connections or simply just use a pigtail and a weatherproof shrink tubing?

Thanks for the info and " what works" experience,

Bill

[DeltaFox 25]

Yes, I wait untill the sylgard dryes on the cells and then put the sealent down and then add the juncion box. I'll give you a link to where I have pictures of all the stuff I have been diong. Please go there and look at it.

http://s635.photobucket.com/albums/uu73/WayneBlake/

[BilljustBill]

Yes, I wait untill the sylgard dryes on the cells and then put the sealent down and then add the juncion box. I'll give you a link to where I have pictures of all the stuff I have been diong. Please go there and look at it.

http://s635.photobucket.com/albums/uu73/WayneBlake/

Thank you for sharing your work and detailed pictures. Seeing how things come together makes ideas come alive!!

With all your hours of work and efficient ways of saving dollars, how do you use your amp hours?

Bill

[DeltaFox 25]

Right now the charge controler is charging 4 battery's and I have the inverter in the off posistion. I need to get out there but It's been real cold and windy.

[scheek]

Here are some pics of my cells encapsulated with epoxy. I don't think they came out in order but I think anyone can figure them out. I have two more panels to make and each time I get better. However, I have flaws in all.

http://www.solarpaneltalk.com/album.php?albumid=15

[Jason]

Awesome!

Thanks DeltaFox for sharing the photo's with the forum, it's greatly appreciated.

Nice work on using the member photo album Sheek. thats great! I believe your the first one to use it.

this is a great thread...thanks again guys.